Lurker OrrieG Progress Pics

[Green 1959]

Awesome!! I think I will do my that silver too, the headlight bezels are similiar to that already. Now I wonder if I should do the grille bar the same.. On a unrelated subject is there is Chevelle forum you would recommand? My wife is getting started on a 68.

[Kim57]

This is a pretty decent Chevelle site.
Kim
http://www.chevelles.com/

[OrrieG]

I know, I am a Gold member there, joined a long time ago when Al first started the site and there were like 200 of us. Haven't been active, but keep up the membership and still lurk around. Will probably start posting again when I start the Chevelle build. Here's my DD with its winter wheels.

[OrrieG]

Started priming the bed strips with brush on oil based enamel industrial paint. Want to get a good coat with paint I can touch up easily since it will be used. No pics, started to rain and wind dropped a tree limp in the front yard so I got distracted. It was 100 when all the excitment started and I just went inside.

[Green 1959]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

I know, I am a Gold member there, joined a long time ago when Al first started the site and there were like 200 of us. Haven't been active, but keep up the membership and still lurk around. Will probably start posting again when I start the Chevelle build. Here's my DD with its winter wheels.

My wife and I are now on there. Karis 68 is the user name. Hit us up.

[OrrieG]

Painted the metal bed strips. I wire brushed off the rust and scale, then hand sanded with 80 grit to get rid of as much of the original paint as possible. Monday morning primed with industrial oil base primer. Tuesday painted the back with two coats black oil primers. Wednesday and Thursday did the top. Did not cover as well as I liked so I scuffed up the top and hit it with some hammer finish black. It is going to be used so I am more worried about durability and ease of touchup than shiney and pretty. It will be under a bed cover most of the time. In the process welded up a bunch of holes in them from previous tie downs and cuts from the lift gate uninstallation. Also found a local source for the original style ribbed bolts. $15 for 50 of them in zinc galvanized finish.

[hillbillyheart]

in 58 it was all napco parts so if your going newer style undercarriage its weaker than the original napco parts!... i own a 58 napco 4x4 panel delivery and you still today cant buy a tougher truck other than the original humvie which is based on the original napco 4x4 set up... they used to shunt rail cars!...they used to be the civil defence vehicle as its the only opne that could climb over debris in the event of war rubble, earthquake and the like....im telling you this because your actually downgrading rather than modernising your 58....for the front ,rear and divorced transfercase of the truck you own is worth more than your purchase price....front end for your truck is worth just under 1000 here in canada jusr for pumpkin and internals!
the 4x4 locking hubs cant be bought and warn does not make the m-16 locking hub anymore....if it was me i would restore the running gear rather than swap it out as you would actually have less power than the original set up if u put blaser 4x4 set up under the 58

[1985-GMC]

He went to blazer drivetrain back in the 70s (or 80's), If he still had the napco stuff he probably would be using it right now but its a little too late. I think you skipped some stuff at the beginning of the thread, go back re-read a little more eh...

[OrrieG]

Hillbilly post one tells the story, original 2wd converted with K10 running gear in 1985. Try reading before unloading on me. Since it was your first post I'm cutting you some slack... better lurk around and get a feel for the people on the board here and the way we communicate with each other.

[OrrieG]

Original turn signals used a 1156 bulb, single filament. 1157 is a dual filament and you can get led sets that will mount in the 1157 socket. I measured and found that the stock socket is mounted in a 3/4" hole. I bought replacement 1157 sockets in 3/4" size with metal housings. NOTE: when you buy the socket take a bulb and try the socket. I found one that the indents for the nubs on the bulb were not deep enough and the bulb would not go in!

Cut off the stock socket flush with the back of the housing. Used a step bit to drill out the rest of the socket. New socket was a loose snap fit, even with the snap pieces crimped to the housing. I soldered the new fitting to the housing (pull all the plastic pieces and wires) making sure the bulb filiments would be horizontal and orientated (bright on bottom in my case) the same way. Not a big deal but wanted the symmetry when they are lit.

I have read a lot of thread about poor grounding for turn signal and tail lights so I soldered a 14 GA wire to the socket as a secondary ground (belt and suspenders theory). I tested it using the ground wire and just the housing grounded and both worked. I taped up the back with electrical tape but am going to try and find a rubber boot that fits for a tight fit. The back is fairly exposed on the 58-59 and I can see water getting splashed up into the back of the grille bar. A shot of my favorite 1634 satin black paint and we are good to go.

[bjcaldwe]

Nicely done.

[Kim57]

Looks good.
Kim

[mknittle]

Looks good Orrie!

[oldman3]

Parts look good. I agree with you on the ground. I run ground wires to everything and run them back to a ground strip, that is wired to the negative battery cable....Jim

[dug224]

As usual, superb craftsmanship and excellent directions on how to accomplish. Dug

[Trekster]

Awesome build thread. Keep up the good work!

[Madd Doc]

You are making great progress, I am a little behind you but I did pick up this 76 4x4 for the running gear to put in mine and I found a fleet side bed for a steal. my wife just rolls her eyes every time i bring home more stuff but it will be great when its done and i get rid of all the excess parts.





if you don't mind I pick your brain when I start the swap

[OrrieG]

Thanks guys. Madd Doc you stole the bed! Got my door hinge and latch hardware cleaned up and installed the strikes. Chased all the bolt and nut threads, I remembered I was having issues with stuff binding when I was taking it a part and the paint had cruded up the cab bolts.

[Madd Doc]

Well I didn't exactly steal it but I ended up giving $50 for it, does need some work and it has a rolled on paint job but that looks to be the reason its not rusted away like everything else made of metal does around here.

[OrrieG]

Cup holders! First thanks to Kustombrad for the inspiration. Wifes favorite beverage jug (shown in the second photo) dictated the min. size, she has serious issues with too small cup holders in her Honda. Bottom is a large washer, top a cinch ring (you city boys will have to google it), the rest scrap flat stock. Only wanted them out when in use. The first photo shows the sequence of parts, plastic parts for slippage, locking nut to adjust tension. next one show them in usable location, then tucked under the seat frame. The metal frame will get padding and leather to match the seats.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Those are some slick cup holders..

[oldman3]

That is a neat set-up.....Jim

[Kim57]

Very cool.
Kim

[_Ogre]

ingenious

[OrrieG]

Made the wood form and upolstered the front seat frame bar. While I was at it I upolstered the column cover pieces and gauge bracket. Here are photos, not the final install but close. Gauges are trans temp and tach.
The bump in the column is the dimmer switch connection, I have not come up with a elegant way to cover it yet. Funny how photos bring out stuff like the need to touch up the bottom of the column I had not noticed before and a seam I need to tune up. I found the red sign in my Dad's stuff, probably from his millwright days when he had to lock out equipment.