Ready to test engine start

[pvienneau]

Just did a new compression test after spraying ATF into Spark plug holes. 1 at 62, 2 at 70, 3 at 60, 4 at 55, 5 at 70, and 6 at 70. Looks like ATF is the way to go.

[solidaxel]

How old is your gasoline?

[Hogger54]

^^ Good point, and maybe a new filter.

[pvienneau]

The engine has been rebuilt with the exception of breaking the block open and replacing the pistons. So everything is new otherwise including gas. But tomorrow I will get new gas and give it a try. I'm not giving up just yet.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by pvienneau

The engine has been rebuilt with the exception of breaking the block open and replacing the pistons.

The expensive part if you need oversize pistons....so it was not rebuilt just a valve job and gaskets. Sounds like compression is coming up so it might fire and MAYBE the rings will reseat.

[solidaxel]

Before you start or turn over the engine put 1 oz. of NEW gas in the throat of the carb

[pvienneau]

Still no luck. Any reason why it gets 70 when all plugs are out and throttle wide open, but when I put back plugs and try to start it seems to not get the same compression?

[pvienneau]

Hello all, finally got back to this engine and pulled o the head. I disconnected the piston arm under the first piston and the piston will not slide out of the cylinder. The wall has worn from the rings where the rings cannot get past the cylinder that did not wear with the rest of it. Any suggestions on getting the pistons out so I can get the block honed? Or should I dump this engine for a 235?

[solidaxel]

.............. Do you have access to a ridge reamer?

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by pvienneau

Hello all, finally got back to this engine and pulled o the head. I disconnected the piston arm under the first piston and the piston will not slide out of the cylinder. The wall has worn from the rings where the rings cannot get past the cylinder that did not wear with the rest of it. Any suggestions on getting the pistons out so I can get the block honed? Or should I dump this engine for a 235?

If you are getting the block honed they will need to pull the crank and can pull the pistons out from the bottom.... I assume they will also check the crank, rods and pistons to see if they are ok, let them to the disassembly so they can keep track of what goe where. Also, if there is a ridge the engine was not rebuilt, or was poorly rebuilt (new rings in original worn bore).

I thought it was a 235?? Is your goal a stock looking truck with 235, or just a six cylinder? Newer 292 or 250 engines in good running condition might be a better option if that is what you theme is. Any six you get that needs rebuilding will quickly surpass the cost of a SBC conversion.

[gag1025]

If your goal is to keep the engine I would pull it out and have the engine rebuilt. If you simply want a 6 cylinder engine then I would go to a '54 on up because you will have a much better engine with ball bearings. My experience with my '50 Chevy engine and babbitt bearings was not a good one. Those engines were the worse design Chevrolet ever designed.

[pvienneau]

Thanks guys, I think I'm going to look for a newer in line 6 or the project.

Pat

[pvienneau]

Got a 1955 235 to replace the 216. Heard it running before it was pulled so I know it is a runner.

[gag1025]

Excellent choice. One that you will not regret.

[pvienneau]

OK, newer engine in the frame and it starts right up and runs until I let go of the starter. I got something wrong. I have the positive battery cable to the starter and to the + of the solenoid. I have the negative grounded to the frame. I am not using a switch to kill engine. I have an alligator clip from solenoid + to starter so I can stop it if it ever keeps running. I do not have a generator hooked up.

[pvienneau]

All, I found this video on line that is an example of what my exact situation is. The engine runs great while I have the starter pressed. Once I release it stops running.

80s tower of power wont stay running - YouTube

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by pvienneau

OK, newer engine in the frame and it starts right up and runs until I let go of the starter. I got something wrong. I have the positive battery cable to the starter and to the + of the solenoid. I have the negative grounded to the frame. I am not using a switch to kill engine. I have an alligator clip from solenoid + to starter so I can stop it if it ever keeps running. I do not have a generator hooked up.

There are 2 circuits that apply power to the coil. When cranking, a full 12 volts is applied. When you release the key the ballast resistor is in the circuit, applying about 8 volts to the coil. You are missing the ballast resistor circuit.

To be sure, hook a meter to the coil "+" and ground. You'll have 12 volts when cranking and 0 volts when you release the key.

[solidaxel]

You need a12VDC source either from the "second small terminal" on the starter solenoid
or a 12vdc wire directly from the battery to the coil (temp)

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

You need a12VDC source either from the "second small terminal" on the starter solenoid
or a 12vdc wire directly from the battery to the coil (temp)

That'll work! (Don't run it too long on the full 12 volts or you'll burn up the points.)

[pvienneau]

Thanks for all the advice. I found that a wire from the block (ground) is connected to the back of the Dizzy where in my other truck (6V) there is not. I know this engine came from a 12 V set up and I plan to do the same. Maybe it has something to do with Alternator vs generator?

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by pvienneau

Thanks for all the advice. I found that a wire from the block (ground) is connected to the back of the Dizzy where in my other truck (6V) there is not. I know this engine came from a 12 V set up and I plan to do the same. Maybe it has something to do with Alternator vs generator?

I don't know what "back of the dizzy" means. If it's just to the body of the distributor, that won't change anything, and is OK. If the primary (little) wire is grounded, the car will never run.

Here's how to check/fix your problem: Put a voltmeter between the "+" terminal on the coil and ground. The voltage will be there while cranking, and will go away when you release the key. You need to keep voltage on the "+" terminal of the coil when you release the key.

This has nothing to do with alternator vs. generator. You can unhook the alternator or generator and you will still have the same problem.

[pvienneau]

Thanks DG, this is good info. Another item I just realized is that the starter is from a 12 volt system and I purchased it with the engine when I bought it. So it is the starter out of a 12 volt system. Is it possible it has the pos and neg reversed?

[pvienneau]

OK, you guys were absolutely correct. Once I added a 12VDC from positive on battery to positive on solenoid it ran awesome. Now the question I have is, why would I need to add a ballast resistor. Where in the 49 pickups lives the ballast resistor? Or is it because I am running 12 Volts?

[pvienneau]

Looks like I found the answer to my own question out on the filling station. Thanks for getting me to the right answer.

Coil & Ballast Resistor - Change the original 6-volt coil to a 12-volt type - use part # FS-770. A ballast resistor is now required between the coil and the distributor. This will insure that only 6 volts reach the ignition points or they will burn prematurely. Ballast resistor is part # FS-1008.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by pvienneau

Thanks DG, this is good info. Another item I just realized is that the starter is from a 12 volt system and I purchased it with the engine when I bought it. So it is the starter out of a 12 volt system. Is it possible it has the pos and neg reversed?

It will be a negative ground (normal) 12-volt starter. The red (positive) battery lead goes to the starter's big terminal. The black (negative) battery lead goes to the block (ground).