Power Window Relay Mod?

[mrolds88]

2 relays per door. The relays come into play after the switch. When you close the connection from either switch, the power goes to the specific relay on the door that the window is to be adjusted.

[cjlloyd81]

I also have a crewcab, and a batch of relays otw to me as I type this.

Trying to get a better picture of what everyone is talking about... I (and others with crew cabs, really anyone with power windows at all.

Each door gets two two relays (Up and down). Each relay triggered from the switch that controls that doors window. So the wiring would be the same for front passenger door and both rear doors if applicable as it is for the drivers door correct?

[gmachinz]

Yes, that is correct. There is a pink power lead that daisy-chains from switch to switch for power-that's what you use to power the relays. I use Packard connectors/terminals and solder everything so if you have to ever pull the doors off, you can simply dis-connect the wires and leave the relays in place behind the panels. And, I color code all leads to make it simple. This is something a lot of people can do, however I like a factory appearance with regards to upgrades like this. It's a sweet mod that for sure!

[justpball]

Thanks for all the info guys.... Gonna do this soon!

[DallasTxImpalaSS]

I have my relays and I am going to try this next week. GMachinz did you connect the pink wire to the relay or are you stating the pink wire is the initial power source? This post confused me a little. I found a diagram I will try to attach but I thought we were connecting the drk blue and brown wires from the switch to the relay.

[345HP87SSAC]

watching this.

[gmachinz]

Yes, you are however, this diagram is very confusing....I wire mine completely different-the PNK lead that goes to each switch gets cut with about 6-8" left at the switch-this gets grounded from the switch and the other end goes to power each relay. This is where my harness utilizes HD step-down connectors to keep it clean.

The diagram in my kits I designed using the factory wiring diagram but with the addition of relays, I kept the color coded routing so its easy to follow/read. And, I also make use of express modules and its cleanly integrated into my diagrams as well. This diagram here works but its not very installer friendly as far as making sense of each wire lead.

I'm a graphic designer too so I make sure my diagrams are easy to follow and understand-I don't like the one posted above for its lack of details in wire routing.

[DallasTxImpalaSS]

So you are using the pink wire as your constant power to the relay instead of running a new power source?

[gmachinz]

Yes-this way, you don't have to try and get into the accessory door boot-it's a fused 30A circuit which is plenty. Now everything can be done at the switch-no need to get under the dash at all. Of course, I can build a complete replacement harness if that's what somebody may need....I'd need more info on an individual bassis though.

[justpball]

Do you make a kit?^^

[gmachinz]

Yes, I have quite a few kits including all variations of squares.

[y5mgisi]

Link to kit?

[gmachinz]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=605271

This is a standard 2-door kit. Everything is done right at the switch. I also have these kits available for 4-doors, K5's with relay powered rear glass, suburbans-including rear glass and all harnesses can be wired with Express Down modules for auto down windows.

[chris989]

I wanted to bump this back to the top because it is one of the easiest mods to do and maybe the most bang for the buck out of any mod. I did not go all the way to the battery. I spliced into the original PINK wire to pull power. Just eliminating the switch doubled the speed of my windows. The hardest part was removing the door panels. (maybe soldering the main power splice but that is because my iron sucks)

I happen to have barrel crimps so i ordered the relay with a socket harness. with the harness you just need to crimp red ring terminals to 87a and 86.
and a new package 56 to 30 and 87. Your done...

http://www.delcity.net/store/Relay-&...ss-Kit/p_72563

if you are slightly confused about the wiring, don't be.

The thing you have to remember is,,, the source power (from the switch) goes to 87. (not 30) 87a is needed to ground the motor.

87 Pink main voltage wire pre switch.
87a ground
30 power going to the window motor (blue or brown,, up or down)
86 ground
85 trigger wire power from window switch (blue or brown,, up or down)

Anyway, thank to the OP for the information, good work.

[chris989]

TYPO

this is wrong
The thing you have to remember is,,, the source power (from the switch) goes to 87. (not 30) 87a is needed to ground the motor.

this is correct

The thing you have to remember is,,, the source power (before the switch) goes to 87. (not 30) 87a is needed to ground the motor.

[daddyjeep]

Tag for reference. Thanks guys for your contributions. I will be doing this soon.

[N2TRUX]

Good one to bump up. I am going to need it soon.

[jon9116]

Bringing back an old thread because I'm about to do this. Question is I understand the 2 relays per window (up and down) but since the driver side controls the passengers side as well, will that switch speed up the passenger window as well?

[gmachinz]

The blue w/white and tan are the triggers for the RH side. But essentially, your RH window relays mounted at the RH door panel will be relay powered and will still be activated from either switch....so yes the RH window will be faster than stock. Voltage drop with relays is very small-much better than routing voltage through the switches so it's a good deal all around.

[jon9116]

Originally Posted by gmachinz

The blue w/white and tan are the triggers for the RH side. But essentially, your RH window relays mounted at the RH door panel will be relay powered and will still be activated from either switch....so yes the RH window will be faster than stock. Voltage drop with relays is very small-much better than routing voltage through the switches so it's a good deal all around.

Ok makes sense. Just wasn't sure since the LH relays don't touch the blue/wht stripe and tan wires on the switch. Essentially you'd need another set of relays on the LH door is what I was thinking.
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[gmachinz]

You should put the relays as close to the accessory as possible-so ideally put the RH control relays on the RH door.

[jon9116]

Originally Posted by gmachinz

You should put the relays as close to the accessory as possible-so ideally put the RH control relays on the RH door.

I get that. Just got thrown for a loop with the double driver switch and the single passenger switch. I'll be doing relays on both doors
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[4x4chase]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[gmachinz]

Those are junk....but they will prolly work....for awhile....keep a fire extinguisher handy lol

[jon9116]

Also with the cut wires from the switch, do you just turn those into grounds or just electric tape them off
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