'65 SWB Patina Build

[w00dst0ck]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

I never think to powerwash anything...I even have one in my garage too...There is a place down the street from my work that does steam cleaning. Around 100 bucks and it is spotless...next time.

I like Z's over sectioned crossmembers. I have done both and I would rather not make the steering in these old trucks worse (with the sectioned crossmember). How low you plan on going also plays a factor as you can only go so far with a crossmember.

Luckily the body on these trucks can be lowered about an inch without significant work. The bed mounts will need work but you are going to have to do that with your mods anyway.

Here is a nice build with a mild Z: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=446527

I was thinking 1-2" Z, and I have decided against pancaking the crossmember.

I don't need the truck that low, and as you stated I don't want to make the steering any worse.

Although I imagine once I get it all back together with new bushings/balljoints etc It will handle like the Cadillac of all farm trucks.

[w00dst0ck]

Also I might seriously consider the no limit power rack setup. I only wish they offered a slightly less expensive manual rack option. Even though my LS has the factory pump on it right now I could honestly care less about power steering and having less moving parts to break is ok with me.

[tinydb84]

The nice thing about a 2 inch Z and lowering the body mounts 1 inch is that you have lots of clearance just cruising around.

The no limit mount doesn't look terribly complicated. You might be able to replicate it.

[w00dst0ck]

Since I'm waiting on a billion parts I decided to take care of some of the cab rust.

PO put in semi trailer mud flaps as floor mats and screwed them down with 20+ sheet metal screws so I have a lot of filling to do.

Put in some 16gauge patch panels in the front foot well area, and welded a few of the screw holes. After 2+ years my big tank is about empty so I stopped for the day. Going to get it filled tomorrow and continue on.

Still need to be ground down some.

[w00dst0ck]

Last one of the day.

[Ryguy442]

Looks good! Fixing all the little spot can be one of the biggest pains.

Ryan

[w00dst0ck]

The challenging thing is just chasing holes. I make a patch panel, cut out most of the swiss cheese as when I start burning it in I end up chasing. Makes the patches look bad, but once they're all ground down and painted it will look good.

[Ryguy442]

Yeah sheet metal repair is what I do for a living I hate chasing holes make it a pain to clean up and make look good again. I have a maginet with a copper pad on one side that tends to help as a heat sink. You probably already have heard of that trick. So you decide to z the frame?

[w00dst0ck]

Yeah, there's no way to get my copper spoon up in there :/

[w00dst0ck]

Well I was supposed to be studying all day yesterday, but I spent a majority of it under the truck. "Study breaks."

Burned all the sheet metal screw holes in from the PO, and started drilling rivets out for the stock forward trans mount, and rear trans mount.

Still waiting on parts for pretty much everything. Looking for a high hump as this 4l80e likely won't clear.

I fell in love with Maggie's c60 grille, and found a dirt cheap one on fleabay last night.

Probably won't be ordering any more big parts until my VA check at the end of the month.

[Low Elco]

In on this- oughta be cool. Diggin' the Volvo!

[w00dst0ck]

Thanks. It sure does get some funny looks. People aren't used to seeing a wide tire Volvo Wagon getting sideways.

Some bad news, both my rear cab supports are rotten. They were covered with dirt and looked fine before I power washed underneath.

Cut the bad spots out and am going to patch today.

Is there any easy way to get the forward trans mount out? I tried drilling from underneath with no luck. And the cab starts right at the rivets. Looks like I'm pulling the cab for sure.

I had planned on just doing all the work with the cab still on the frame.

[nhr3]

I installed a 350/700r4 combination and have plenty (2-3 inches) clearance on the low hump. No major issues and even the column linkage works well. I did move the engine forward 1.5 inches to give clearance on the HEI distributor.

[w00dst0ck]

Originally Posted by nhr3

I installed a 350/700r4 combination and have plenty (2-3 inches) clearance on the low hump. No major issues and even the column linkage works well. I did move the engine forward 1.5 inches to give clearance on the HEI distributor.

Yeah we'll see. I'm definitely going to try and make it fit with the low hump first. Plus, the pre 67 high humps are proving difficult to find.

Side note: Are you an aircraft mechanic? I was a 64 Crew Chief in the Army. Took a break to finish school, and I plan on getting my A&P this winter.

Building cars/trucks is nothing once you've been in the aircraft realm for a long time.

[nhr3]

Yep been wrenching on executive jets for 40 years. I worked for the factory for 26 years and have been doing my own thing since. I try to only work 3-4 months a year but a lot of times it ends up being much more. Just finished a month in Anchorage and am hoping to get back into the truck rebuild.

[w00dst0ck]

Since I'm playing the waiting game with parts, I figured I would mount the 72 pedal last night as I had just got it in the mail (from a member on here).

I was welding in some small holes from the old rod pedal and it got dark. Girlfriend was rushing me because she thought we were going to be late for our movie, and the pedal assembly got caught on the firewall instead of falling down to the floor.

It partially melted, so I cleaned it up. Definitely still usable. I'm not 100% satisfied with the placement, but it can't go any lower otherwise it doesn't get full movement due to the shape of the floor pan.

[w00dst0ck]

2nd coat of chassis saver on the crossmember.

[w00dst0ck]

Got a killer deal on some new tires today. Had to ditch the 285/45/22's I had, they were way too tall.

[w00dst0ck]

Just wanted to see what it would look like with the new 29" wheel/tire setup.

This is as low as it will go with the factory trailing arms and no c notch.

Planning on running the PB stage 2 deluxe rear, so I'm sure it will do down another few inches.

also, the motor is pretty much ready to go in.

[Ryguy442]

Looks good, can't wait too see all four wheels on it. Think you are going to run into rubbing issues in the front when turning?

[w00dst0ck]

I didn't with 285/45's. I shouldn't now, especially with 265/35's.

Unlike most who have run these with spacers to clear the hubs, I machined the centers to fit the bigger c10 hubs. That's probably why I don't have issues, they sit further in than those running spacers.

CPP brake kit is on the way. Just waiting on the front bag stuff from PB then I'll have a rolling chassis again.

[w00dst0ck]

Was hoping to have the truck back on the ground soon, but build time even on the stage 1 PB kits is 4-6 weeks. Bummer. I had hoped it would be a lot less time as it's an extremely simple/quick kit. They must be pretty backed up. Oh well plenty to do in the meantime. I ordered $300 worth of patch panels yesterday.

Brake kit is supposed to be here any time now.

Mounts came in last night. They're pretty beefy.

[w00dst0ck]

Brake kit got here before class, so I decided to work on the truck instead.

[duallyjams]

another fun one to watch

[w00dst0ck]

c60 grille.