k5 66

[Joey~AP]

Ive been puttin off doin the floor boards and rocker panels.

Didnt look to fun.

I have full replacement floor boards, but I think I will cut and patch.

Gonna be covered with carpet, anyhow.

[TimE]

Nice progress Joey. I really like those style bumpers on a 4-by. Makes 'em look mean.

[jonzcustomshop]

So I looked through the thread, and noticed that you didn't discuss the body mounts.
I can see in a couple of the pics that there is a body lift , what all did you do to mount the cab and box?

[Joey~AP]

I took all the body mounts off the 66 frames and put them on the 77 frame. The width of both frames are the same. The problem was the heigth of the frames compared to each other. I had to use spacers....that look similar to a body lift....to get the body mounts into a good mounting position on the 77 frame. The 77 frame has a tall cross member, where the rear floor board would be. The back of the 66 cab is layin on it.

[Joey~AP]

Front bumper is finished for now.

The brackets that I had to build to convert it from Tundra to 66 are stout!

It will come in 1st place in a crash!

[Joey~AP]

Cuttin cancer out of the floor boards and rocker panels.

Someone needs to school me on weldin this sheetmetal. I keep blowin holes in it. I am usin a Hobart 120 Handler with .030 wire on the lowest setting.

[Joey~AP]

[LILRED66]

When welding light gauge sheet metal, I used Argon/CO2 gas, solid .023 wire, low wire speed and low power setting. Also, try backing up your welds, where possible, with a piece of copper...it will act as a "heat-sink", as well as, provide a backing surface, to avoid blow-out and the weld will not stick to it.

I also use a flanging tool, whenever possible, because it backs up the weld and then you are doing a puddle weld, to secure the panel and then you can run full-penetration beads on both sides of the panel with the flange backing up the weld.

[Joey~AP]

[Joey~AP]

[4dranch]

Thanks for the Pics Joey.
I would have to have a couple pots of coffee to get a cut that straight.
nice work

[Joey~AP]

Originally Posted by 4dranch

Thanks for the Pics Joey.
I would have to have a couple pots of coffee to get a cut that straight.
nice work

I used a 4-1/2" grinder with a cut-off wheel and a Milwaukee sheet metal sheer.

They make me look more skilled than I am.

[jonzcustomshop]

another thing that will help with the welding, is to get the paint/surface rust off of the seam that you are welding.
I use a combo of 3 things for this. (together , or seperatley)
paint stripper,
wire wheel (for the 4.5 inch grinder)
36 grit flapper disc (for 4.5 inch grinder)
be careful with the 36 grit, if you dig in too deep you will sand metal away too, but a light touch will burn the paint, and rust right off.

another reason for blowing holes besides what tony covered, is if you are still in the rusty metal. If it is still rusty, the heat will boil the moisture out of it , and what is left will blow through.

I started with what I thought was a 1x4 rust hole on my fender patch, by the time I got to good metal the patch was about 5x12.

[4dranch]

Thanks for the info Jonz.

Joey, you all got a mud hole lined up for your rig?
really nice work your doing. I'm really enjoying reading your build.

[Joey~AP]

Originally Posted by 4dranch

Thanks for the info Jonz.

Joey, you all got a mud hole lined up for your rig?
really nice work your doing. I'm really enjoying reading your build.

Thanks!

Quite a few mud holes around here most of the time. Been kinda dry lately.

We need rain!

[ATCFLYBOY02]

Nice conversion man... I have a 88 K5 that I'm about to pull the body off and start the same thing your doing. I do have a question for you... I have a Short Step, Am I going to have to cut my bed up or not? Also, any "learning experiances" that you have would be great. Thanks alot and again, nice build!

Doc

[jonzcustomshop]

^ check out the short step pic in post # 3, looks like you will have to chop the bed down...

[LILRED66]

'60-'66 Chevy Panels and Carryalls/Suburbans are based off of the 115" (short wheel base) chassis platform. In order to install this sheetmetal on a later model K5 Blazer frame, you will have to shorten the factory swb stepside bed proportionally, to fit the frame, as well as, center the front and rear wheels in the fender wells.

[Joey~AP]

Originally Posted by ATCFLYBOY02

Nice conversion man... I have a 88 K5 that I'm about to pull the body off and start the same thing your doing. I do have a question for you... I have a Short Step, Am I going to have to cut my bed up or not? Also, any "learning experiances" that you have would be great. Thanks alot and again, nice build!

Doc

Yes. The bed will have to be shortened. You will probably just loose your step.



You will need to remove all cab mounts from your 4-5-6 to use on the K5 frame. In turn....you will have to remove all cab mounts from the K5 to make room for the 4-5-6 cab mounts. I slid the cab back to make the front wheel fit in the wheel well better. This distance can be judged by utilizing the K5 steering column. It lined up perfectly!

Invest in a good, high quality air hammer/chisel!!!

Carefully remove, label and save the K5 wiring harness. This is a time and money saver!

If you want any lift at all, I would suggest lifting it as I did. I got all this info from ColoradoK5.

If you have any questions.....please ask me! I would be more than happy to help!

Good luck!

[ATCFLYBOY02]

yea, i went back and looked at it. Humm... I ahve to replace my bed sides anyway so i might just use the ones I have now for a template... I dont use the step anyway so I dont think it will be a big deal. As far as body/frame mounts, how big of a pain was it to get the cab to line up?

Doc

[ATCFLYBOY02]

Disreguard the last question.. I just read your post.

as far as the wiring, I was planning on useing a painless 18-circiut so everything would be new.

[Joey~AP]

Originally Posted by ATCFLYBOY02

Disreguard the last question.. I just read your post.

as far as the wiring, I was planning on useing a painless 18-circiut so everything would be new.

I couldnt afford to go that route at the time, but probably the best option.


C10 wheelbase is 115".

88 K5 is 106.5".

[Joey~AP]

Ive got some progress on the floor boards.

Friend of mine says I am having problems welding it because of the impurities in the Tiawaneze metal. Could be.

Kindof embarrassed to show yall, cause the welds look like crap, but I am doin the best I can and will cover it in carpet, anyhow.

[Joey~AP]

I got the front bumper painted and mounted.

I also got the rest of the truck rattle canned.

I also found some paint at Tractor Supply for $29 a gallon, but it only comes in tractor colors. Mite do Semi Gloss black and Ford grey.

[TimE]

Wow! Your son should be ecstatic. That thing looks mean as !!

Nice work.