Harnalien's Build Thread

[gringoloco]

Yup. The PCM likes to see a 40 pulse per driveshaft revolution (PPR) VSS signal w/ autos and 17 PPR on manuals. This is mandatory if running a computer controlled trans. Drive by wire throttle would likely be highly affected as well.

For a 700r4 and cable throttle body, I've seen guys get away with using the Dakota Digital SEN-01-4160. It's output is not even close to the stock 40PPR count, at 8 pulses per speedo cable revolution, but is enough to let the PCM know whether you're stopped or moving, setting the appropriate idle tables, and ending the goofy surging/stalling issues. It would also allow you to keep your cable driven speedo, if so equipped.

Though I haven't tried this personally, it is all fairly well documented over on LS1tech's conversions and hybrids forum. One could spend a lifetime over there learning...

Edit for linky: http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd109.htm

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by harnalien

The other mishap I had the other day is somehow my quick connect on the upper fuel rail came loose and was spitting gas out while i was test driving...scary. I limped it back home and got it back on and it's tight now. Not sure what caused that.

What fitting are you using? Some of the earlier models have issues with them popping off. Are you using THIS style? I know Russell redesigned them.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by harnalien

After the thrush exhaust got installed a few months ago.

Man, this thing sounds GOOD! What cam did you go with? What did you end up doing for a tune?

[harnalien]

Video from the other day.
http://youtu.be/cU13nfMHcsY

[Clyde65]

so are you rolling now?

[Kainedogg]

Great build and despite your woes, it was worth it. Thanks for the helpful pm's as well.

[harnalien]

Well it's been a while so I thought I'd update this thing. The truck is strong, but is a pain in the butt to drive because it surges every time I feather the gas. My plan is to take it to a local tuner, but I have had a pesky exhaust leak since the install was finished. So I tried to fix that and my situation quickly went from bad to worse. I broke one of the header bolts off in the head and no matter what I try, I can't get it out. So I get to take off a cylinder head (sarcastic yay). Once I get it fixed, I plan on taking it down to the tuner and leaving it there until it's running right. Here are some pics of the carnage.

[gringoloco]

Before you pull the head, try welding a nut to the broken bolt. Weld down through the middle of the nut to the broken end. The weld won't stick to the aluminum head and it heats the broken bolt up making it easier to extract. Oh, and there's a nut to grip, too! Hopes this helps--way easier than pulling the head...
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[Cherub]

what i did when i broke off a bolt was use a stripped bolt socket(like this). ground a flat spot on one side and vula bolt removed.


Have you check the codes to see why its surging.

[harnalien]

Thanks gringoloco, I thought about the welding idea, but I don't have a welder or know how to weld. I may ask a guy at work if he can help. He built his own motorcycle and is into metal work, so he may be able to help me out.

cherub, I tried a bolt extractor set, but they just seemed to chew the bolt up and not grab hold; like the metal was too soft. I even tried one of these, but no luck.

[harnalien]

I found out Home Depot rents welders, but the associate said that welding a nut on wouldn't work because the weld would break before the nut would come loose. I'm skeptical on that answer because apparently, others have been able to do it.

A buddy of mine suggested puttinga reverse thread die on the stud and putting on a reverse thread nut and taking it out that way. Any thoughts on these options?

[73gmc454]

welding a nut to the stud will work I do it all the time ,the welding heats up the stud swelling it up , after it cools and shrinks back down and it will come right out , heres some pics , as you can see this was a rusted mess , what you have there shouldnt be a problem

[silvereagle07]

^^^^This method works for me all the time. I've had success drilling out the center of the bolt and installing a bolt/screw extractor and turning it out. We do it all the time in the shop on broken manifold bolts. I got a set from Matco and they have been really useful. Here's the kit.

[Cherub]

how did it go?

[harnalien]

I haven't had time to rent the welder yet. I plan on doing it next weekend. Another suggestion was to try jb weld, but I'd rather just do it right with a welder and be done with it. I'm really looking forward to being over this pain in the ace! Thanks for asking!
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[harnalien]

Well for those interested I have a wonderful update! I rented the welder and was able to get the bolt out. Honestly, it took longer to set up the welder than it did to use it, lol. Anyway, thanks so much for the ideas and now I won't have to pull the head. I was so happy with getting that bolt out that I didn't do anything else. So the plan from here is to chase the threads with a tap, put studs in the holes on the end, put a gasket with RTV as insurance against leaks. Then I'll be able to take to get tuned and hopefully be cruising sooner than later!

[mcbassin]

Congrats on the successful removal!
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[truckzilla]

I'm sure you're relieved over that little challenge! Where are you planning on taking it for a tune?

[Shady Chevy]

Hi. Do you have any more information on the Front rotors that you got from Summit? Price, part number or anything? What calipers did you use? Thanks. Cool project. I really like the wheels.

[HotRodPayne]

How did you hook up the kick down cable for the 700r4?
I'm about to do the same swap and was wondering how to adapt the cable to the throttle body.
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[harnalien]

Originally Posted by Shady Chevy

Hi. Do you have any more information on the Front rotors that you got from Summit? Price, part number or anything? What calipers did you use? Thanks. Cool project. I really like the wheels.

Sorry for not seeing this earlier. Not sure if you still need info, but I don't remember the part number or price for the rotors. I just looked on the summit page and it doesn't look like they sell the ones I have anymore. they do have other options that would work though. just remember to check and see if you have 1" or 1.5" rotors before you order. I used the stock calipers, but hope to upgrade to willwood soon. thanks!

Originally Posted by HotRodPayne

How did you hook up the kick down cable for the 700r4?
I'm about to do the same swap and was wondering how to adapt the cable to the throttle body.
Posted via Mobile Device

I used the bowtie overdrives kit to hook it all up. at the time I did my swap, it was the only kit available. not sure if anyone else is offering something now.

[custom97]

How did everything turn out after all?

[harnalien]

What do you guys do when you lose motivation?

[GMC Guy]

Originally Posted by harnalien

What do you guys do when you lose motivation?

not look at it or deal with it for X amount of time...eventually the spark re-ignites and the journey continues. lol i've been off and on with mine for several years now. I work May through November and don't have time for the truck at all (or anything for that matter ).
however, once i get time off again, i can't wait to dig back into the truck and continue making it what I've always wanted.
As much as i miss driving it daily, i absolutely love having another (newer) truck to drive around, it reduces the stress and frustration of making repairs to the 74, GREATLY. no pressure to get it fixed in order to drive to work, or school. if something just isn't working, **** It, it'll sit until i get back around to it...

[Stepper86]

Just let it sit for a while, you will get the motivation back. I had mine sitting in the garage for a year without even looking at it.
Now Im at it again, LS engine going in. Im not in a hurry, just plucking away at my own pace.