Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

New [Old] Fender - Money Shot

... best part ~ No Badge!

[greg64]

Originally Posted by Gregski

New [Old] Fender - Money Shot

... best part ~ No Badge!

Which do you want first? The good news or the bad news?

The good news: the fender looks great compared to what came off.

The bad news: the door now looks a little worse then it did before.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by greg64

Which do you want first? The good news or the bad news?

The good news: the fender looks great compared to what came off.

The bad news: the door now looks a little worse then it did before.

True, the doors may get a fresh coat when I remove them to rehang em, the door gaps are redunculous right now, definitely not SEMA approved, LOL

SEMA - Someone Else Made this Automobile, LOL, I just came up with that, can you think of some good ones

[cnorth]

thanks man I'll look for that stuff at pepboys gotta find some door clips anyways I don't know what this guy used but yeah anyways

[greg64]

Originally Posted by Gregski

True, the doors may get a fresh coat when I remove them to rehang em, the door gaps are redunculous right now, definitely not SEMA approved, LOL

SEMA - Someone Else Made this Automobile, LOL, I just came up with that, can you think of some good ones

SEMA - spending extreme money amounts

Door gaps? - it's a truck!

[cnorth]

hey Greg will that acid that you bought from Home Depot work on door panels,trying to get rid of the PO's attempt at painting so I can duplicolor other all my stuff

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by cnorth

hey Greg will that acid that you bought from Home Depot work on door panels,trying to get rid of the PO's attempt at painting so I can duplicolor other all my stuff

Hi Chris, (I hope I recalled your name proper) I would not use it on plastic as it would eat it, there is special paint remover for plastic may be a sister product of Air Craft Remover, check your local Pep Boys or any other parts house. Also do NOT use Acetone, that will eat them also.

You could try Denatured Alcohol, I think that might could work, but be careful with it.

[cnorth]

sorry I got the dreaded sideways pictures from my phone

[jetmech85]

We used model airplane fuel (nitromethane) to remove paint from our plastic model cars when I was a kid ('60s). I wonder about brake fluid, I seems to remove paint from everything it splashes on. I doubt the muratic acid would eat the door panels since it is packaged in plastic jugs but don't think it would remove paint either. Keep up the good work.

[Chrispbrown36]

I always try to bag and label everything but somehow almost always manage to forget. I did remember it when I recently refinished an old rifle, but then just a month or so later I somehow forgot to do it when pulling the dash and duct work out of my truck....somehow I ended up getting everything but one piece back in place and luckily the one piece I missed can be done without taking everything else back apart.....someday I will learn.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Chrispbrown36

I always try to bag and label everything but somehow almost always manage to forget. [...] but then just a month or so later I somehow forgot to do it when pulling the dash and duct work out of my truck....somehow I ended up getting everything but one piece back in place and luckily the one piece I missed can be done without taking everything else back apart.....someday I will learn.

Yup, I dread dash work, maybe I'm still recovering from that heater core replacement on my brothers '93 Volkswagen Corrado VR6, it made the space shuttle cockpit look like an etch a sketch ~ member those my pre smart phone brethren?

[Chrispbrown36]

In the same winter the heater core went out on a 2004 Ford Taurus that was my wife's and on my 2001 dodge ram.....I wouldn't touch either one of them. I didn't want to even think about jacking around with those dashboards.....we bundled up for car rides that winter...

[rusty76]

I like to bag the parts and then put a note card in the bag telling me what and where they come from. That way when I forget what I did with that part and find it the ink won't have faded or worn off the bag...lol.

[Gregski]

OK, finally got the entire hood done, no more rust, man lots of work to get here, lots of zero fun, hunker down and git er done

[Gregski]

found out Harbor Freight sells primer now, so why not try it on the hood, here is their IRON ARMOR Self Etching Primer, with their 20% off coupon a can was about $4 bucks so I bought one and had my son buy one

[Gregski]

I think a can is about a coat, so ended up doing two coats / two cans on the hood

the interesting thing is the first coat came out half darker gray half lighter gray, (second pic) did I not shake the can all that well to start, I don't know, or is this Harbor Freight special as always, LOL

first pic - just plain prepped hood

second pic - first coat of primer

third pic - second coat of primer

[Gregski]

Rusty, Rusty, Rusty, sometimes I think you don't love me any more, I clean ya, I fix ya, I de-rust ya and this is how you thank me, this is what you've been hiding from me all this time

So what to do, what to do?

A. Ignore it, paint the darn thing green ~ IT'S A TRUCK

B. Ghetto bondo them holes and paint green over it - It's a truck!

C. Buy a new hood, do it right

D. Paint it green and weld it / fix it later [pronounced] never, LOL

[Titomars]

If it was mine, I would ghetto bondo it for now paint it and enjoy rusty. Then plan on a new replacement hood at a later date.

[Chaplain]

I would do the same. I'm going to going for the patina look with my rusty old blue truck. However, I actually have a hood I'll give you. Drive on over to west TN and it's yours.

[greg64]

Greg, the hoods are notorious for rusting there. I welded up my first hood, bondoed and painted and it was okay. But much later I found a hood with no rust (free!) that I cleaned up and repainted. I'd just do a quickie fix for now. Fix it later (if ever).

[Chaplain]

Only because I don't want to paint, I am going to keeps rust and blue paint. That's why I have a hood and two finder to move along.

[Gregski]

a little Confession

Father it has been a couple weeks since my last intake manifold swap, since then the trucks oil leak has turned into an oil water fall (all signs point to the back of the intake manifold the flat valley area where no gasket was used but RTV only [as per the now questionable intake manifold instructions], as the oil runs down the bellhousing and passed the starter, the valve cover gaskets seem ok, dry)

So no pictures but I pulled the intake off again, yes for a third time, this time I went out and bought some black RTV gasket maker and yet another FelPro gasket.

One final time I am blaming myself for a poor installation, but that will be the last time I do that. If it fails again I am tossing this Weiand intake as it is not the Weiand of the 70's and 80's this casting is crap. The two middle bolts on the passenger side are impossible to torque to spec properly as the wrench does not fit there proper by the offset to one side carb tower. It's enuff to almost make The Greg go out and get an Edelbrock Performer.

So here is the one last final plan. Use the black RTV to run the fattest widest bead that can fit on the 3/16th back wall of the block by that silly oil pressure location stub. Do the same on the front. Also add additional blobs in the bottom four corners where the heads meet the block (what a horrible / terrible design, that should be a beautiful natural curve / sweep not a sharp jagged edge, blah)

Then coat, smear that black RTV on the cylinder head walls liberally, then do the same on the walls of the intake. (Last time I think I put the orange RTV only around the water jackets, but not this time, this time is for real)

And here is the key to the entire operation.

... WAIT ~ WAIT ~ WAIT ~ then wait some more

I waited an hour for the RTV beads to set then waiting 24 hours before putting the fluids back in, last time I did not wait that long, heck I may wait a couple days.

Like someone said on this forum, they rather scrape old stuck gaskets off than have a leak! Amen to that!

[rich weyand]

If you do get the Performer, you can get the air-gap version if you will be keeping the air pre-heat tube on the air cleaner. So, 2101 is regular, 2601 is air-gap.

I think biggest thing with sealing up the one you have is 1) clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner to remove any oil or residue completely, and 2) anywhere you are using a sealer/cement/silicone, spread it on both sides of the gap you are sealing. You want the final assembly to only require that the compound seal to itself, and not to have to form a bond to a clean surface.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

If you do get the Performer, you can get the air-gap version if you will be keeping the air pre-heat tube on the air cleaner. So, 2101 is regular, 2601 is air-gap.

I think biggest thing with sealing up the one you have is 1) clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner to remove any oil or residue completely, and 2) anywhere you are using a sealer/cement/silicone, spread it on both sides of the gap you are sealing. You want the final assembly to only require that the compound seal to itself, and not to have to form a bond to a clean surface.

Great tip as always Rich, thank you. Is compound to gasket ok, or should we be smearing compound on the gaskets as well?

[rich weyand]

Always put compound on both sides of any gap you are sealing, so that would be both the metal flange and the gasket, then seat the gasket to the flange. That seating process will mate compound to compound, which is what you want.

I used TiteSeal (which is a non-hardening gasket seal product the fly-boys use) on both sides of my valve cover gaskets, so I had four surfaces to coat on each side.