No Limit Trailing Arm Rear Suspension

[SierraMtns]

I am half away done with installing everything. Finishing up the upper shock mount brackets and started on the panhard bar bracket. Man removing rivets are fun.

From the parts list I notice that the Upper Shock Mount Bracket and Panhard bar Bracket don't come with mounting hardware. Has anyone else ran into this? I seems like I am 11 bolts short.

[SierraMtns]

Has anyone ran in to an issue with the reference hole for mounting the panhard backet?

Compared to Rob's picture in post #9 the reference hole on my frame looks lower. When I mount the bracket to this hole the bottom two holes don't have frame to bolt the bracket to.

[Nicks67C10]

I too noticed the reference hole issue. I used the bottom right hole instead of the middle one for reference. I believe I purchased the first trailing arm kit that they sold. I too was short on bolts, just ran to local store and grabbed more. Ill post pictures tomorrow absolutely love the product and everything they have. They will be will be my go to for any and all future projects. You will not find a better company to work with customer service wise not to mention their top quality products.

Also CPP C-notch kit works well with the trailing arm kit as seen on the yellow test truck.

[robnolimit]

Sorry guys. We missed the bolt count for the shock and panhard mounts. This has been amended, but if you need them, just call and we'll ship them out. Also, it would seem that some frames have different holes in the back. We will be posting up a measurement in the directions (see 'Tech Center' on our site) and adding this to the instructions. Thanks for the feedback, everyone is having great results with this package. Ride quality and handling is un-matched. The small details will be sorted out. Thanks again.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by Nicks67C10

I too noticed the reference hole issue. I used the bottom right hole instead of the middle one for reference. I believe I purchased the first trailing arm kit that they sold. I too was short on bolts, just ran to local store and grabbed more. Ill post pictures tomorrow absolutely love the product and everything they have. They will be will be my go to for any and all future projects. You will not find a better company to work with customer service wise not to mention their top quality products.

Also CPP C-notch kit works well with the trailing arm kit as seen on the yellow test truck.

Would love to see some pictures of your truck Nick. What size wheel combo you running?

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Sorry guys. We missed the bolt count for the shock and panhard mounts. This has been amended, but if you need them, just call and we'll ship them out. Also, it would seem that some frames have different holes in the back. We will be posting up a measurement in the directions (see 'Tech Center' on our site) and adding this to the instructions. Thanks for the feedback, everyone is having great results with this package. Ride quality and handling is un-matched. The small details will be sorted out. Thanks again.

Thanks Rob. I am very happy with the protect and your guys customer service. I am ready to order the Wide Ride front when the c-notch is ready.

[dfraze]

I am stuck at mounting the panhard bar bracket also. I have 2 frames a 71 and 72 neither have the mentioned holes. I will finish mounting it up when dimensions are available. I have plenty of other work to do

[Nicks67C10]

I am running the wide ride ifs with 17x10.5 CCW classic 3pc. The rear will be 18x as big as I can fit. Ill have a build posted once I have time. I went to take pictures today to post and them when noticed I cracked one of the coil over eyelets. I didn't tighten the trailing arm to the rear diff, I guess the weight cracked it. No worries Rob is helping me out in replacing it. Next item will be the rear sway bar from No Limit.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by Nicks67C10

I am running the wide ride ifs with 17x10.5 CCW classic 3pc. The rear will be 18x as big as I can fit. Ill have a build posted once I have time. I went to take pictures today to post and them when noticed I cracked one of the coil over eyelets. I didn't tighten the trailing arm to the rear diff, I guess the weight cracked it. No worries Rob is helping me out in replacing it. Next item will be the rear sway bar from No Limit.

Are you running 2" blocks in the rear? What springs you running?

[Nicks67C10]

Originally Posted by SierraMtns

Are you running 2" blocks in the rear? What springs you running?

I am running the ride tech single adjust front and rear. I don't know the spring rates, I assume the standard weights from no limit. I will be running 2 inch blocks in the rear possibly a heavier spring up front as well.

What is everyone running on these kits?

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Sorry guys. We missed the bolt count for the shock and panhard mounts. This has been amended, but if you need them, just call and we'll ship them out. Also, it would seem that some frames have different holes in the back. We will be posting up a measurement in the directions (see 'Tech Center' on our site) and adding this to the instructions. Thanks for the feedback, everyone is having great results with this package. Ride quality and handling is un-matched. The small details will be sorted out. Thanks again.

Any updates on the measurements? I checked the site and theres nothing up.

Here is where I have it mocked up. It cant go much more forward without hitting the bolt for the cross member.







Also is there a L/R for the trailing arm brackets?



Thanks

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by SierraMtns

Any updates on the measurements? I checked the site and theres nothing up.

Here is where I have it mocked up. It cant go much more forward without hitting the bolt for the cross member.







Also is there a L/R for the trailing arm brackets?



Thanks

Lookin good. There is no difference between L.H. & R.H. mounts for the trailing arms. Panhard mount spec is now online. Thanks.

[dfraze]

Thanks for the dimensions Rob!

[robnolimit]

Sory for the delay. Here is a spec on the mount location of the panhard rod bracket for chassis that don't have the pic location hole.

[SierraMtns]

Hey Rob,

I am ready for the c-notch....

[crakarjax]

Why not just any other notch? Isn't the panhard specifically designed to work with the CPP notch?

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

This truck already had a bolt-in notch. Now, lets talk about that. Shame on the aftermarket. Shame on them for helping you cut into your truck for no reason. ??? OK, the frame is approximately 4" tall (rail height), keep that in mind. Also, the rear gear housing is about 4" above the top of the axle tube. (top of center chunk to top of axle tube. So, if you pull the bump stops, and the axle travels up to hit the bottom of the frame, the top of the center section (gear housing) is even with the top of the frame. Are you with me so far? Now realize that the OE bed floor is .75" above the top of the frame. (Or worse, even with it if it's a wood floor). So, if the axle travels up more than 3/4" into the notch, WHAMMO, it hits the bed floor. So, if your keeping the OE bed floor, a 1" notch with a side mounted bump stop is all you need, and you wouldn't cut the frame so much.OK, I know some of you want it lower, and will cut a hole in the bed floor, but that's not what we're doing here. Please think about the notch thing before you cut.

We are working on a notch kit with bump-stops included, but the forming match may take another two months. We are not going to include bolt-in C notches with this kit. We will have them available separately. But, sincle so many trucks are already notched, we are not going to force you to buy something that you don't need, or don't want.

Originally Posted by crakarjax

Why not just any other notch? Isn't the panhard specifically designed to work with the CPP notch?

I would like to keep as much of frame as possible. No reason to cut more out when its not needed.

[robnolimit]

Looks great! We are now stress testing a few versions of a notch brace. I know that no one else has done this, as we are testing a few others as well. Load stress of mod rails vs. OE rail. Twist, vert. and horiz. loads. Probably 30 days to production unit.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Looks great! We are now stress testing a few versions of a notch brace. I know that no one else has done this, as we are testing a few others as well. Load stress of mod rails vs. OE rail. Twist, vert. and horiz. loads. Probably 30 days to production unit.

You're going to give us the raw data on that, right?

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Looks great! We are now stress testing a few versions of a notch brace. I know that no one else has done this, as we are testing a few others as well. Load stress of mod rails vs. OE rail. Twist, vert. and horiz. loads. Probably 30 days to production unit.

Thats great news.

I'll email Jessica now to get my name on the list for the first ones.

Thanks

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Looks great! We are now stress testing a few versions of a notch brace. I know that no one else has done this, as we are testing a few others as well. Load stress of mod rails vs. OE rail. Twist, vert. and horiz. loads. Probably 30 days to production unit.

Any idea what the price range might be on the notch?

[CarbonRight]

So there is about a $350 difference between this setup and the fatbar when they are both using Ridetech shocks. What are the advantages of going with this vs your fatbar setup?
Posted via Mobile Device

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by CarbonRight

So there is about a $350 difference between this setup and the fatbar when they are both using Ridetech shocks. What are the advantages of going with this vs your fatbar setup?
Posted via Mobile Device

Fair question. It's really kind of "Apples vs. Oranges". We wanted to do an actual 'Bolt-in' rear upgrade for a long time. So, the Trailing arm kit was developed. The extra cost mostly has to do with the extra hardware cost in the arms, monster balls, and hardware for the panhard rod. On the plus side, this kit can be installed in a day, with a grinder, a drill, and a Craftsman tool kit. Now, if you have a torch or plasma cutter to help with the rivets, it can be done a lot faster. But, no welding at all.
The Fatbar was originally designed for 55-59 Chevs and 53-56 F100s. (sorry for the F word) And, over the years, we tuned on the design to get the best ride and handling we could from a classic truck. It's advantage when compared to the O.E. trailing arm was in Instant Center location/tuning, and the lack of binding during articulation. (we didn't have Monster balls back then) But remember, the Fatbar has parts that MUST be welded to the axle housing. Thus, the install takes a little longer, and requires more tools and skill.
In head to head competition, the Fatbar may win out due to it's ability to launch and exit the corner. On the road, the trailing arm may be a little more compliant due to it's longer travel. As for cost, an increase in hardware offsets some addition labor to install. Take your pick, it's a Win-Win.

[SierraMtns]

Has anyone figured out which diff covers fit with the panhard bar?

[SierraMtns]

Hey Rob,

Any pictures of the c-notch?

[SierraMtns]

Hey Rob,

Any updates on the c-notch?

Thanks