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Old 03-31-2010, 10:22 PM   #1
ERASER5
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

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Originally Posted by kdrodworks316 View Post
eh, Mossberg Shotgun, The tool that keeps the bad guys out. KACHUCK!
I too have a black belt in Ching Ching Pow!
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:59 PM   #2
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

Beer Bottle opener, and next the saws all
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Old 04-14-2010, 02:39 PM   #3
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

4-1/2" milwaukee grinder with a wire wheel. Leaned in a little too far yesterday and it sucked up my right sleeve. I almost pooped. I also had the same tool take 1/4" out of my index finger when it had a grinding disc on it.
After that maybe my welder...I've burned the same foot twice with embers (don't weld sitting down cross-legged) and lit myself on fire a number of times.
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:48 PM   #4
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

timing light, I always get chopped, shocked, or burned when doing timing..
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Old 04-30-2010, 11:03 AM   #5
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

Me!!! For Example: Burned myself pretty bad yesterday with the MIG welder...I was wearing flip flops!
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Old 05-02-2010, 09:17 PM   #6
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

it's a toss up between the iron worker cause of flying steel or the torch due to ocasionally setting my self on fire
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Old 05-06-2010, 09:02 PM   #7
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Thumbs up Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

While in high school auto shop class in 1985 ,with everyone standing by offering how to properly mount a car on the floor hoist,with too many voices, i had no sooner put my thumb under the end of the arm to flip up a part of the lift and the lift dropped down on my thumb it seemed to take for ever to get it up......off to the hospital they squished it very painfully into a thicker type of thumb again......went threw a few colours of flesh and nails before it was better.

Surprised no one has mentioned drive on ramps,in 1989 i had an 79 austin mini,fine for it ,but i lent them to a neighbour to work on his 81 camero in our underground parking garage ,he came up after a couple of hours asked for a couple of tools,chatted said i would go back down with him......only to find the rear 1/4 smashed in , back window smashed, car on the ground into a cement wall beside him,it had gone over sideways off the ramps.Mike said he was under there till he came back upstairs,we both felt he was lucky that day,i duno if i would use the home made wooden ones i've seen on here either .

i don't need to lift my 4x4 to work on it,but still put axle stands under it

then on my list is grinders and welders,and the idiots that can't use em
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Old 05-14-2010, 03:26 PM   #8
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

I have a 1/2" air drill that ended up in my box because too many people got injured with it at my Dad's work
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Old 05-14-2010, 08:05 PM   #9
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

It may be a repost but it is on-topic

Tools Explained

DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned
calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh,
****!"

SKILL SAW:
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of
blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs
into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle...
It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the
more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future
becomes.

VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If
nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense
welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop
on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of
which you want to remove a bearing race..

TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles
for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed
your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good
aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash
can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside
edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot
to disconnect.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening
old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can
also be used, as the name
implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted
screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.

PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you
needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a
kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the
object we are trying to hit.

UTILITY KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons
delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such
as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector
magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially
useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use..

Son of a ***** TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling
"Son of a *****" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the
next tool that you will need.

Last edited by Ghostwhite; 05-15-2010 at 08:05 AM.
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Old 05-14-2010, 11:03 PM   #10
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

Ghostwhite, lmao!

Angle grinder for sure, with wire wheel or cut off discs.
Had a 14" cut off saw blade grenade on me while cutting angle iron.
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Old 05-15-2010, 12:45 AM   #11
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

Quote:
HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a
kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the
object we are trying to hit.
lmao
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Old 05-17-2010, 01:04 AM   #12
Warrens69GMC
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

I have a 12" Cresent styled adjustable wrench and it has a crack in it, needless to say it works MOST of the time.
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:55 PM   #13
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

someone said it already. the nail gun. had a 1.5 in brad shoot into my index finger, bend after hitting the bone and punch through to the other side. FYI, they really only come out one way.
the grinder is always a treat. been farily fortunate though, only a little skin and a few pairs of pants.
sawzall. cant think of how many times i said "that blades probably too long, but ill just watch it". you know the rest.
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:08 PM   #14
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

I don't care what tool it is if it's in my hands it's dangerous.LOL
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Old 06-05-2010, 09:28 PM   #15
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

1/2inch air ratchet is great at pinning your hand somewhere, usually a stud or such. Its amazing how fast rotary tools wrap upr your shirt, gloves, etc.
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Old 06-11-2010, 10:34 PM   #16
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

All the clutter, too much stuff too little room.

I really need to straighten up every once in a while.

4" grinders are the next most dangerous thing, ever time I use one I get broken skin.

Danny
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Old 06-16-2010, 07:03 PM   #17
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

Any electric tool with a trigger lock combined with someone not thinking everything through.

Saw two guys (temp workers) belt sanding a piece of Douglas fir, probably 20 feet long, to be used in a timber frame structure. The timber gets moved around the shop either by overhead crane or on roller conveyor belts, the kind with the steel rollers. This piece was on rollers, both guys locked the trigger on the belt sander, and started sanding, and watched as the beam flew down the rollers and fell off onto the floor. Then, to a man, put down the belt sanders to go get the beam, and watched as the belt sanders flew off down the floor.

Another guy, actually a lead hand for the company, standing on the top step of a 12 foot stepladder, you know the one that says "This is not a step!", had to drill a hole in something overhead. The trigger locked on at some point, then the drill bit snagged and stuck, and proceeded to whip around and keep smacking him in the chin till someone could quit laughing hard enough to pull the cord.

Same guy, you know how they say in safety lectures to make sure you are clipped in when running a Skyjack/scissorlift? And also how you should always turn around and back down the ladder, facing the Skyjack? Well, he was tied in alright....but he just went to jump down off the Skyjack, and was hanging there till someone went to go get him.

I've learned sometimes co-workers/friends/neighbours are the most dangerous, and most people need a 10 foot safety zone around them
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Old 06-30-2010, 02:04 PM   #18
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 68chevyfuelie View Post
I've learned sometimes co-workers/friends/neighbours are the most dangerous, and most people need a 10 foot safety zone around them
We had an electrician like that in our plant. A very dangerous man, nice, but dangerous. It was nothing for him to have 10ft stick of conduit on his shoulder and then pivot 180 degrees, taking anyone and anything around him.
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Old 06-28-2010, 06:33 PM   #19
ya it is a classic
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

84 f250 diesel running away. selling it 2maro and making money on it. o ya!
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:44 AM   #20
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

The most dangerous tool in my shop? Its a cabinet shop everything spins& cuts so you have to be 100% focused on the job at all times. cheers, Pat
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:46 PM   #21
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ya it is a classic View Post
84 f250 diesel running away. selling it 2maro and making money on it. o ya!
84? That would be 6.9 like mine. So what, where, and how? After reading one story, I keep a closer check on the oil level.

That 86 F250 might be my dangerous tool. ANYTHING suspension related is painful! If I did not make pain during the fix, the pain will come by morning. Sometimes I just take the Aleeve before hand.
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Old 10-27-2012, 01:25 AM   #22
ya it is a classic
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ERASER5 View Post
84? That would be 6.9 like mine. So what, where, and how? After reading one story, I keep a closer check on the oil level.

That 86 F250 might be my dangerous tool. ANYTHING suspension related is painful! If I did not make pain during the fix, the pain will come by morning. Sometimes I just take the Aleeve before hand.
well lets just say i was young and dumb and thought i knew what i was doing. i bought the diesel from my neighbor for $100 and dropped 400 into it and one of the things was a new clutch slave cylinder. well it wasn't properly bled so you had to pump it a few times to get it to work. and my buddy suggested i should turn up the fuel pump so i pulled the cover but i couldnt get the screw to turn so it was dark out and i put the cover back on the pump after filling it with diesel but i didnt notice that the fuel lever was in the wrong position (wide open) so the next day the pickup was pointed at the shop and my dad was cranking it over while we were bleeding the lines. well i jumped in and i couldnt get it out of second gear because the clutch wasnt bled (kinda bad if it had started) well i put it in neutral and it fired up and ran full throttle for about 2 minutes. i unhooked the batteries, pulled the wires on the fuel pump, and shut off the key. the only thing that could have stopped it was covering the intake but i didnt think of it. and it ran like a bat out of hell before it blew. my dad called me a (add a choice word) dumbass and walked away. so i sold it to the salvage yard for $500 and kept the new batteries i put in it. and i brought home the 48 international kb2 i just got cause i could only have 3 vehicles at the house at a time.....so it all worked out in the end except me learning i was an idiot haha and instead of driving a f250 diesel that i just registered and was going to drive it to school the next day i ended up driving my 55 chevy pickup that was way cooler but so impractical
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:17 PM   #23
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

Mine could be the overrated drill I bought last year. It kept me inside the hospital for seven days when it accidentally crushed my feet.
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Old 09-09-2012, 10:25 AM   #24
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

Any thing at forehead level


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Old 09-09-2012, 11:19 AM   #25
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Re: Most dangerous tool in your shop and why!!!!!!

I have an older Black and Decker drill. It's a 3/4" electric drill that doesn't have a deadman type switch. It's simply on or off. The best part is that the switch is finicky and sometimes doesn't turn on or off when you want it to.

Powerful drill to say the least. I don't use it though.
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