1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by Xeen

It looks like I'm a little bit late to the party, I just saw this build today for the first time.
Welcome to the board.
There are a LOT of very knowledgeable people here on the board and you can learn tons by just simply reading other peoples builds.
As in all things there is a right way to do things and a wrong way to do things, sometimes unfortunately we don't have the tools to do things the "right way" all the time and a lot of times the right way costs a lot of money because of the tools you have to buy to make it happen, however the good news is Harbor freight is your friend, the idea behind the business model is the tools are designed for "one time use" and are very reasonable in price.
As in most product lines there are different levels of quality and features, they have the El cheapo, the Heavy Duty and the PROfessional series.
For things like drills I buy the PRO series, for things like impact drills and grinders I buy the HD series, you get the idea, I never buy the El cheapo because they may or may not make it through your first project
Harbor freight is also good for things like car dolly's, BIG 60 gallon air compressors, PRO series tool boxes, things of that nature.
Lowes is an excellent source for common fasteners, nut's bolt's etc, but for hard to find fasteners go to Ace hardware.
I'm going along for the ride, if you find yourself scratching your head and have any questions about anything on the pickup feel free to send me a private message.

Thank you for stopping by and for the info you have included. Having yourself and the other experienced members posting info and encouragement is a great asset and motivation. I will definitely keep you all in mind as this continues. At least I know y'all won't call me crazy for trying this build. Everyone I know kinda looks at me out the corner of their eye like I'm nuts.

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by 0311Chevy8152

... At least I know y'all won't call me crazy for trying this build. Everyone I know kinda looks at me out the corner of their eye like I'm nuts.

Yeah, but they know you and we have to depend on what you tell us! :-)

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Yeah, but they know you and we have to depend on what you tell us! :-)

I've learned "crazy" all depends on who you hang around with and from looking at this group I'm not crazy at all.

[Xeen]

I forgot to mention earlier, one of the greatest things I discovered for cleaning up and resurfacing most metals without removing any good material is a polycarbide abrasive wheel on an angle grinder it's literally a miracle worker, how you use it is you lay it down as flat as you can without touching the arbor to the metal and use light to no pressure on it because usually the weight of the grinder is enough.
You can use the edge of the wheel if you need to get into a recessed area.
It will remove, rust, body filler, paint, etc.
Here is a link to the product so you can check it out.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-h...eel-94017.html

[DWilbur]

Originally Posted by Xeen

I forgot to mention earlier, one of the greatest things I discovered for cleaning up and resurfacing most metals without removing any good material is a polycarbide abrasive wheel on an angle grinder it's literally a miracle worker, how you use it is you lay it down as flat as you can without touching the arbor to the metal and use light to no pressure on it because usually the weight of the grinder is enough.
You can use the edge of the wheel if you need to get into a recessed area.
It will remove, rust, body filler, paint, etc.
Here is a link to the product so you can check it out.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-h...eel-94017.html

I saw the wheels at HF I will have to give them a try. Wander how they will do to clean up stainless steel.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I saw the wheels at HF I will have to give them a try. Wonder how they will do to clean up stainless steel.

It will resurface the stainless steel meaning it will remove oxidation, stains, et cetera and give it a fine tooth, you will need to go one step further afterwords and polish the stainless steel to remove the tooth.

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by Xeen

I forgot to mention earlier, one of the greatest things I discovered for cleaning up and resurfacing most metals without removing any good material is a polycarbide abrasive wheel on an angle grinder it's literally a miracle worker, how you use it is you lay it down as flat as you can without touching the arbor to the metal and use light to no pressure on it because usually the weight of the grinder is enough.
You can use the edge of the wheel if you need to get into a recessed area.
It will remove, rust, body filler, paint, etc.
Here is a link to the product so you can check it out.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-h...eel-94017.html

Once I get down to the bare frame is this what you recommend I use to prep it for whatever I should do next? I found a place in south Sacramento that you can take parts to, frame, panels ect and they do a several step process of stripping down to the bare metal killing rust etc. which is probably going to cost money I do not have or would have to save up for. Would it be wise for me to save up for something like that or can I get er done by hand? Thank you for your advice.

[Xeen]

I would have everything you intend to reuse media blasted which doesn't really cost that much, where as chem dipping costs too darn much.
Any parts you have media blasted need to be sealed with self etching primer immediately once you get it home to prevent surface rust from reforming, so plan accordingly.

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by Xeen

I would have everything you intend to reuse media blasted which doesn't really cost that much, where as chem dipping costs too darn much.
If you have it done you need to seal all parts with self etching primer immediately once you get it home to prevent surface rust from reforming.

Have you seen this new "dustless blasting" that uses water and a glass media? I have watched a couple advertisements on it but I'm not positive on if it removes rust or not. They are trying to get people to buy into their franchise and make money doing it.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by 0311Chevy8152

Have you seen this new "dustless blasting" that uses water and a glass media? I have watched a couple advertisements on it but I'm not positive on if it removes rust or not. They are trying to get people to buy into their franchise and make money doing it.

Never heard of it but then I don't keep up with that sort of stuff regularly either, I would take it to a traditional media blaster that uses a dry media there is too many cracks and crevices where rust could reform and any time you get metal wet it want's to flash rust so that doesn't sound like a great idea to me.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by 0311Chevy8152

Have you seen this new "dustless blasting" that uses water and a glass media? I have watched a couple advertisements on it but I'm not positive on if it removes rust or not. They are trying to get people to buy into their franchise and make money doing it.

Its not for rust i don't think, its for body paint removal last time i checked, donno if it works on bondo ether.

[Xeen]

Someone obviously used this thing for off road, so with that in mind I would take some serious time measuring to make sure the frame is straight.
Who knows if the P.O. had any idea what they were doing when they lifted the pickup.
Sigh... I hate to say it but they probably didn't which means the shock mounting points weren't reinforced/relocated the frame wasn't boxed for strength, no skid plates added et cetera.
Lets hope they didn't beat on it regularly, you need to carefully check every ball joint, tie rod end, et cetera for wear.
Also you need to carefully check for damaged/bent suspension parts.

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Someone obviously used this thing for off road, so with that in mind I would take some serious time measuring to make sure the frame is straight.
Who knows if the P.O. had any idea what they were doing when they lifted the pickup.
Sigh... I hate to say it but they probably didn't which means the shock mounting points weren't reinforced the frame wasn't boxed for strength, no skid plates added et cetera.
Lets hope they didn't beat on it regularly, you need to carefully check every ball joint, tie rod end, et cetera for wear.

I'm nervous as to what I am going to find as well. When I took out the electrical under the dash it amazed me nothing had caught fire. My plan is to take everything apart, inspect everything, and make sure it's done right. I will be looking for guidance and direction to make sure I do it right. I'm thankful I found this forum and able to ask questions. This forum is my only resource. I do not have friends or family familiar with building a truck. I want to make the truck solid and to last. Hopefully one step at a time that will happen.

[Xeen]

Well you have come to the right place, we can certainly make sure you are doing it right.
I would really like to have a conversation with you concerning your plans for the pickup so I can help you formulate a long term plan for the build, if you would like to send me a private message with your number and a range of time that it is ok to call on most days and I will give you a call, just click on my name on the left to send me a private message.
BTW you will notice that I edit my posts a lot because I have a bad habit of rereading my post after to make sure it says exactly what I want it to say.

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Well you have come to the right place, we can certainly make sure you are doing it right.
I would really like to have a conversation with you concerning your plans for the pickup so I can help you formulate a long term plan for the build, if you would like to send me a private message with your number and a range of time that it is ok to call on most days and I will give you a call, just click on my name on the left to send me a private message.
BTW you will notice that I edit my posts a lot because I have a bad habit of rereading my post after to make sure it says exactly what I want it to say.

Awesome thanks. I'll send you a pm.

[Ozzy2013]

I usually try PB blaster and try to loosen them first and if the wont then tighten them until they break

[litew8]

Nobody Ever Drowned In Sweat

What are your plans for the body? Repaint? I didn't see it mentioned.

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by litew8

Nobody Ever Drowned In Sweat

What are your plans for the body? Repaint? I didn't see it mentioned.

Yes I am definitely going to repaint. I am going to take everything down to bare metal and see what I have. I hope I am not going to be surprised by too much. I have this idea floating around in my head of trying use a military themed paint skeem, tans, browns, and strategic black parts.

[Ozzy2013]

You might consider just doing the spots that have to be done while apart due to access putting the truck together so you can drive it .Then finish body work while its a roller only reason i say this is so many get in over their heads .Its a very time consuming job if you tear it totally apart and try to do everything at once .Some never get the trucks back together !Not trying to discourage you in anyway just letting you know.Oz

[Xeen]

The good news is this isn't the space shuttle so there isn't millions of parts, there is more like a couple hundred and the vast majority of parts can only be installed one way so it's nearly impossible to screw it up so no worries there.
You are going to be learning things about the k10 pickup that you never knew and may not have wanted to know but you will know it all by the time you are finished.
Go slow, take your time, watch videos, ask questions, learn as much about it as you can and you will do fine.
If you have never been an overachiever in life now is the time to start, do the best job you can on everything you touch.

[litew8]

Great suggestions and comments by all.

[0311Chevy8152]

I have been spending my efforts removing bed bolts. Man are they fun! I have all of the passenger side out and started working on the driver side. It's just as enjoyable as the passenger side. I figured no one wanted to see bolt holes so I've attached a picture of the rear end and the front end. The rear has a Dana 60 with a ARB air locker. The leaf springs are sitting on approximately 4" blocks. I want to get rid of the block, I believe unless someone says not to, and just have leaf springs equaling 6" of lift. The front end has a Dana 44 with limited slip. It has leaf springs with what I think is an ORD shackle flip equaling 6" of lift. There is also 2" of body lift for a total of 8". On the front I want instal an air locker and new shocks front and rear.

[ol'blu72]

Originally Posted by 0311Chevy8152

I have been spending my efforts removing bed bolts. Man are they fun! I have all of the passenger side out and started working on the driver side. It's just as enjoyable as the passenger side.

I used an air chisel on my bolts, they were way to rusted to get out. First tried a grinder but the air chisel was quicker and easier and less collateral damage. Got it a harbor freight for like 20-30 bucks, worth every penny. I just knocked the heads off from the top and knocked the bolts out.

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by ol'blu72

I used an air chisel on my bolts, they were way to rusted to get out. First tried a grinder but the air chisel was quicker and easier and less collateral damage. Got it a harbor freight for like 20-30 bucks, worth every penny. I just knocked the heads off from the top and knocked the bolts out.

Thank you for the advice. This might sound crazy but I'm using this as a workout as well as a truck build. I have been sitting on my butt waiting for the VA to fix me for two years. So this is my first attempt at using my new hip and hopefully loosing some weight. So no power tools yet except I used a screw gun to take out a screw.

[First c10]

Milwaukee sawsall with a long metel blade?