1972 Blazer CST Frame off Project in NC

[UGAK5]

You are the man Pete! Thank you!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

IIRC the factory assembly manual says .76-.79" from the outside edge. I had to redo my windows cause I set the window short of this measurement. The lower channel was getting hung up 3/4 of the way.

I ended up having a glass shop set the glass for me and I just marked where it needed to sit. Both windows ran me $75. For me, it was worth it just to have them do it.

I think they used 3M window weld and there is a primer they use with it as well.. I added up the cost of buying a caulking gun, window weld and the primer and it was close to 50 bucks.

Did you ever figure out your splash shields? It took me a solid 4-5 hours to get those darn things to line up correctly. Talk about PITA

[UGAK5]

Thanks Mike - - I never could find the windows in the Assembly Guide. I am surprised there's that little tolerance! Looking at Pete's pics, they look centered from the ends. Would hate to weld them in and get it wrong.....new windows and new sashes would have to be bought. UGh.

Splash shields = HUGE PITA, but yes, they are on.

Chris

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by UGAK5

Thanks Mike - - I never could find the windows in the Assembly Guide. I am surprised there's that little tolerance! Looking at Pete's pics, they look centered from the ends. Would hate to weld them in and get it wrong.....new windows and new sashes would have to be bought. UGh.

Splash shields = HUGE PITA, but yes, they are on.

Chris

Sorry for the confusion. I couldn't remember for sure if it said .76 or .79. That's why I said .76-.79.. The manual didn't specify a range of tolerance. I measured my at exactly 3/4" and worked out perfectly. I took the page out of the book so I could easily have it handy and must of miss placed it or I'd post a photo of here for you.

For some reason, I think they used window weld, but I could be wrong. The first time I had them set the glass, I measured it wrong and was off by 1/4" Luckily, I was able to get the windows out of the sashes without any damage.. Only took about 4 hours, a heat gun, and 100 razor blades..

Good luck with the doors... Not sure if you've come across this thread but if you follow this sequence, the entire door assembly goes in smooth and easy.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=732400

[DeadheadNM]

You bet!

[DeadheadNM]

Great to see an update. Progress looks great!

[UGAK5]

Hey guys - Been busy between Thanksgiving and now tidying up stuff all over the Blazer. Finished all the underhood wiring, got the core support on, radiator, fans, gauges, steering wheel and tons of little stuff. Here are a few pics:

[UGAK5]

All that, to get to this - as of 1:15 pm today, S H E ' S A L I V E ! ! ! !


https://youtu.be/4BtYSYDt0pM

[jaros44sr]

That is quite the milestone, great work. I wouldn't know, but that must feel good. LOL

She's a beaut

[IronCanine]

Congrats. No small feat. Continues to look great...super clean.

[DeadheadNM]

With a tape measure on a loose set here I get ~5/16" maximally and ~1/16" minimally.

[UGAK5]

Thanks Pete, I should be around 6 or 7 16ths. That should work.

[UGAK5]

I measured again - more like dead on 1/2 inch. Anyone think that'll be too thick?

[jeffg1010]

Blazer is looking great! I am in Mooresville and I'm building a '72 2wd ... although yours will be done before mine will. Will yours be ready to run some miles in time for the last leg of the Hot Rod Power Tour that is coming to town next month? At minimum, my goal is to take mine to the C10 Get Together in Mooresville after the tour.

[my kids toy]

Very nice build.

[UGAK5]

jeffg1010 - Thanks for the comments, and the info on the Tour. Between work, family, hobbies, etc., I haven't looked into any events that are going on around here. That said, she's road worthy now! Plenty of small things left to do, but as of 1030 pm last night, 82 miles on her - all in small trips around my town to shake down gremlins and test things. All in all, very pleased. Nothing too tough to fix.

I'm way behind on updates, but it also starting coming together really well in a push towards the end - way faster than I expected!

[UGAK5]

So, it you read above - I owe everyone some updates!

First one is carpet for the front passenger area. I went with ACC carpet and very pleased with it. Went in well and was fitted well. I laid it over the top of my butyl rubber sound and heat deadener. Worse part was cutting out the dimmer hole and shifter holes - then the seat bolt holes. Nerve wracking. Took my time and used small screwdrivers stuffed into the bolt holes to keep everything lined up.

I also installed stainless steel thresholds from Classic Heartbeat - - look really nice in my opinion.

Once I had derusted, sanded and painted the passenger seat brackets, I installed them first and shimmed them to align everything and compensate for the butyl rubber subfloor. That turned out to be easier than mounting the bracket to the set first.

Got my twin shifter knobs on - - look so good - - but I need to build a custom carpet ring thats wider than the one in the picture - just too narrow to get a good bite on the trans tunnel.

Lastly, the seat belt retractor is for a chevelle and is a new reproduction from Morris seat belts. I bought a full set from them for front and rear, which works except for teh drivers side retractor. Sourced a NOS on ebay for that. Paid dearly.

[UGAK5]

Then on to rear carpet.

I did not have the leveling mat so I made one. I bought a really stout and heavy rubber mat on Amazon that you would use under a treadmill to stabilize and cushion it. I then cut 20 or so 4 foot strips that were 1 1/8" wide. I put the rear seat in place and cut the strips to length to fill the gaps of the 'troughs' in the bed floor ribbing. Once I had them fitted where I wanted and trimmed up, i ran a piece of 3M double stick carpet tape over them to hold them in place to the bed floor.

With that done, I started cutting out the larger flat mat pieces to go onto the bed floor. Trimmed them all to size and left the are under the rear seat bare, like stock. Once I was happy with the fit, I peeled the other side of the double stick tape off and secured the mats to the floor.

I like the double stick tape because it keeps everything in place, but isn't permanent - and the 3M kind is super effective. I am sure there are various ways of doing this, but I am happy with how mine turned out. The floor is solid, maybe a tad hard, but i wanted the weight in the back, and sound deadening, without going with the butyl rubber stickier than boogers stuff.

Lastly, I added the rear stainless carpet strip repoped from a board member here, Utahboy, GREAT work.

[jeffg1010]

Man, it looks great

[lks dcvn]

Nice job on the rear mat - pretty easy to replicate and does the job!

All of my current projects need windshields replaced so good to hear about the Steele Rubber - always heard Precision was the way to go. Have a link for where you got the gasket and the Pilkington glass or did you work through your local glass rep?

Truck looks amazing by the way!

[aotte1]

Thank you for all your great descriptions, along with photos.

[D.PASSMORE]

Looks great - got any newer pictures?