72 K20 been parked for 31 years!!

[domeier]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Had a friend who bought a 4x4 without testing 4x4. Needless to say, he was stumped when it snowed and his truck was less stable in 4x4 than 2x4- he had a significantly slower ratio up front.

That would SUCK! And - with all the goofy things people have done to these trucks in 40 years, there's probably more out there like that.

[Vintage Windmills]

Do you guys think I should turn this into a build thread and move to projects section or just start a new thread? I've got updates!

[bmfm64]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Do you guys think I should turn this into a build thread and move to projects section or just start a new thread? I've got updates!

Convert this one for sure so we don't miss the update!

[Palf70Step]

I can move it to the projects area if you want to just keep adding on to this one.

Your choice.

[bmfm64]

come on your killin us, UPDATE! lol!

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

I can move it to the projects area if you want to just keep adding on to this one.

Your choice.

Sounds good, please do

[Palf70Step]

You are now a "Project" sir.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

You are now a "Project" sir.

Thanks!

I found a rebuild kit for the waterpump and rebuilt it yesterday. Its a good feeling to have a component done, although its a small one. I figure if I break it up into components, the build will keep me motivated since I'll see more things 'finished' along the way. I am leaving the chassis together until all powertrain/driveline stuff is done. That way, I can drop the driveline in or just tear it down for a frameoff and still know the driveline is all set to go, fully rebuilt.

Engine is still at the machine shop, its been a couple weeks, think I'll call and see when it will be magnafluxed. Parts for tcase are on order at Napa so I can get it rebuilt this weekend. Next thing is that front driveshaft, thing looks a little complicated with that internal ball socket CV joint.

Pics coming soon...

[Dieselwrencher]

Great to hear you're making progress!

[Vintage Windmills]

Pics of the waterpump overhaul!

Also trans after I used my pressure washer sandblasting attachment I got from Northern tool. Sure worked well to get that baked grease/clay/tar trifecta off but sand was everywhere! Its amazing what 3200psi driven sand will do.

[Palf70Step]

Been a very long time since I have heard of someone rebuilding a water-pump. I kinda forgot you could do that.

Tranny looks Clean!!

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Been a very long time since I have heard of someone rebuilding a water-pump. I kinda forgot you could do that.

Tranny looks Clean!!

Its pretty quick if you have access to a press and puller. Mainly just wanted to make sure I had the proper pump going back on and not "equivalent" I think rebuilding stuff is where the fun is, going to rebuild vs. replace as much as I can on this truck

[bmfm64]

Lookin good! Keep chippin away at it!

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Been a very long time since I have heard of someone rebuilding a water-pump. I kinda forgot you could do that.

Tranny looks Clean!!

First time seeing that one myself.

Nice work!

[VA72C10]

Nice progress! And good deal on re-doing the stock pump to keep it original! It's a cool truck that deserves that kind of attention.

[Vintage Windmills]

Thanks guys. I've got good news, the engine block is good to go! Magnafluxed and blasted, hot tanked and will be bored 0.030 when they can get to it.

Now lets change gears and talk about the tcase. (not sure if thats pun intended or not?). I've been working on lining up parts and tearing down the tcase. I got a full SKF rebuild kit with high quality bearings for a really good price. While I only needed one or two bearings, I determined to just get this kit since it was only a little more than the 2 bearings + gasket kit. Got it all torn apart except for the middle gear shaft that seems to be pressed in. Also those press in plugs in 3rd pic (like freeze plugs) are not included in my rebuild kit, I'm wondering if I can reuse the ones I have or maybe buy new ones separately from a place like mcmaster carr? Last pic shows what all is included in the kit. No chinese, tiawanese, or korean bearings or seals. I was pleasantly surprised to see even the needle bearings are in the kit. Here are some pics:

[hgs_notes]

Check part # QU50162 for the soft plugs on the shifter shafts, about halfway down the page. They also have the t-case to adapter gasket if you still need that...
http://www.quad4x4.com/New_Process_NP205_Parts.html

[hgs_notes]

This thread may come in handy for you also...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=469726

[Vintage Windmills]

Progress is slowed due to needing some tools and having other responsibilities to spend time with g/f at social events and go to chicago for work. Also working on a wooden wheeled windmill and trying to do a little P90X style workout to stay in shape. I'm supposed to be machining a bunch of new hubs on the side also. I have a bad habit of taking on too many projects. This is in addition to working 50hrs a week and commuting an hour a day for my day job. Ok, I'll quit complaining now-thanks for letting me vent.

Hopefully lining up engine parts tomorrow, machine work is done but need to get pistons and check if their finish bore is close enough. Originally they said to bring the pistons in before they could finish however today they said its done and most pistons these days are well machined. Well they just confirmed what size pistons to buy today. I am now into the engine block $700 since the pitting was a little deeper than they thought and they decided to sleeve. Also, i think they took care of the cam bearings. I guess I'm going to have to get the pistons and then check them vs the block before it leaves the shop. If they charge extra because its off I'm going to be mad. This is supposed to be a high quality shop and I think it is but it seems lame to call it done without having the pistons.

Back to the Tcase- got it all disassembled but then got stuck due to a couple specialty tools. Had to order a large snap ring pliers and 1-1/8 thin wall socket, still waiting for them to get here. Found my front output shaft was scored pretty bad so I picked up a NOS one off ebay for $50.



Pics of tcase stuff:

[hgs_notes]

Now aren't you glad I decided to just sleeve mine? $700 for block machine work seems a bit high but I've never had a block I had to sleeve either. It better be right for the cost though. Once you get all the parts and the time to get it all together you will have a much more satisfactory experience with the build. All the chasing around for parts and waiting is the hard part.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Now aren't you glad I decided to just sleeve mine?

Yep! There was a little surface rust on the NOS one but it came right off with fine steel wool. I had inspected the rear one and it looked good so I guess I assumed this one would be good too.. wrong! It is surprising though when you think about it, the front shaft is only turning part of the time the rear one is so why isn't the rear in the same condition? I wonder if its due to the fact the front picks up more debris since the front wheels kick up dirt near it?

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

I wonder if its due to the fact the front picks up more debris since the front wheels kick up dirt near it?

Bingo dingdingdingdingding. That and it has that little flange around it that holds stuff between it and the seal area.

[Vintage Windmills]

Snap ring pliers finally arrived so I got a fair amount done on the tcase on saturday including scrubbing every part in solvent and blowing off. I want this thing clean on the inside with these new bearings in place. I just need to figure out a magnet to use, I know they did in later 205's. I did hit a snag with the shims on the idler shaft though. These are required to get the right preload on the tapered roller bearings. My np205 had 0.020" worth but I found I had to add another 0.020 to get the recommended 0.000" to 0.002" clearance. I had to order some and while I couldn't find the small OD like original, I am confident these new ones are ok since they still allow a good gap for fluid to flow through bearing. These may be included in some overhaul kits but they weren't in mine. Below is a pic where I checked this preload in the vise with a long bolt and dial indicator. Its too hard to slide the cups on and off the idler shaft and you don't want to find out in the case. This is critical if you are replacing these bearings. Feels good to have the big gear internal needles (128) in place with the snap rings on. Downhill run from here on the tcase. As you can see, I am going through everything with a fine tooth comb and assuming every single part needs to be inspected or replaced. NO bolt will be unturned on the drivetrain.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Bingo dingdingdingdingding. That and it has that little flange around it that holds stuff between it and the seal area.

Yep, I'm thinking the flanges might do more harm than good. Especially the main driveshaft one. Nothing shoots at the seal from the rear and todays trucks don't use them.

[hgs_notes]

Mine only had it on the front yoke.