It’s Just A Pickup

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Very nice work...

[Bruce88]

The outcome may hinge a pound it (HA HA)
Getting to make a modification to the door hinges that as far as I’m concerned should be a standard on all door hinges.

The Hinges where being stubborn, the hinge pin did not want to come out, I tried penetrating oil and heat but it didn’t want to budge. But I found if I ground the head off the hinge pin and use a socket to support the frame around the head area and one or two solid hits on the pin it came right out. The spring pin holding the slider was bent and had to be cut out with a small cutoff wheel in my Dremel and pushed out in small peaces.

Gathering the parts that I was going to need for the rebuild
(Qty 2) 38-6560 hinge pin rebuild kits from LMC
(Qty 1 pack) SPS-04-32-10 Spring Pin ¼ x 2 inch from Small Parts Inc.
note this is a larger spring pin than the stock one of 3/16 x 1 inch
(Qty 1) SRNY-0250-E NYLATRON GS PLATE ¼ thick 12 inch x 12 inch from Small Parts Inc. note this is a guess on my part that this material is similar to the stock material



I never found a way to get grease in the hinge pin area the way I thought it should be. So I drilled a small hole that will let me use a grease gun needle nozzle to get the grease where I think it is needed on occasion. (See picture below)

One technique I’ve found useful is drilling a 1/8 Dia Hole in the hinge half’s so that after you get the door to fit and fair right you drill a corresponding hole in the door and frame thru these holes. Then when you put the doors back on after painting you get the doors real close to where they need to be with very little if any adjustments. I just use a clecko to line the holes up for installation. (See picture below for those that are interested)





The friction pads where completely wore out and not knowing the exact nylon material or how thick the pad should be I sat down to try and figure it out. (See picture below for calculations) No guarantee this is going to work right but time will tell. The pads where staked in the retainer no rivets as I’ve seen in other pictures so I just staked the new ones in.

There all put together and painted and ready for installation



Have an enjoyable 4 of July and don’t blow up or set fire to any thing that has value to any one.

[hgs_notes]

Nicely done. Good tip for the greasing. Let us know how they work once installed.

[Frizzle Fry]

Nice work. I'm watching this one.

[1964C10]

Thanks for the great pictures, I am saving them refering to greasing the hinges, one of the things I have always done on all my car's hinges (seems none had a grease fitting) was to just a really good quality chain coat for motor cycles, it squirts in as a really liquidy substance but then dries to a nice thick tar like oil/grease, really only needs it once a year and no problems ever. Just a thought

[Bruce88]

People in your rear view mirrors are normally not a problem until they run into you.

Been looking over my doors and front fenders for work that will be required. With the rust and damage needing to be repaired and the cost of the body man bring it into condition after my replacing of bad metal, it would be cheaper for me to replace the doors and fenders if I can eliminate the shipping charges for oversize items. I’m going to be sending the body out for bondo and final painting so their cost is a factor.

I’m lucky in that I live close enough to Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts that I can drive down there and pick up the parts with no shipping charges when the parts come in. A definite benefit when the cost of shipping can be more than the cost of the part.

Wanting to locate the sport mirrors at the factory location on the new doors when they come in, I looked up the factory assembly instructions. In the factory they probably had a jig tool to locate the holes and the only dimensions on the drawing are from body stations and water lines that are not marked on the door. So I added some dimensions in red to the drawing obtained from my original doors. This should make it possible to get the mirrors within .10 inch of the factory location (close enough for me HA HA). Maybe you could use the information (see picture below)



The sport mirrors on the truck where in bad shape. Got two new ones # 38-5846 & # 38-5847 reproduction sport mirrors from LMC. The mirror can have a sharp edge so I covered the edge with AT1007 (small black) door trim by Elegant to prevent any one from getting cut. Heated the trim up to 110 degrees in the oven to get it to bend around the tight corners of the mirror. Installed some MS21059-3 (10-32) floating nut plates on the mirror mount reinforcing plate and will be using 10-32 stainless steel machine screws to mount the mirrors (these nut plates are generally found on aircraft just had a few laying around)



Looking back is not always a waist of time and with some rear view mirrors it’s a little easer (HA HA)

[hgs_notes]

New replacement panel can be nice, but there can be problems. For instance, the reproduction ones I bought had such a poor fit where the grill surround meets the front edge, it left a gap of almost 1/2" on that outer edge. There is no way to correct this other than to fill the gap with bondo. It was tooling that wasn't set right or made right. The driver side would not line up with the original door. If you set the body line at the lower moulding to line up, there was a huge gap with the cowl. If you lined it up with the cowl gap, the moulding edge was too high. The only other way I could think of to make it fit descent was to move the door up, but that would ruin the door gap. I said the heck with it and found a set of originals that were in good condition.

I've seen trucks at the shows that had the exact same issues. Nice paint jobs and poor fit with the grill, etc. If your fenders and doors can be repaired, you might want to reconsider your options.

[Bruce88]

Yes hgs_notes I’ve be thinking about problems with reproduction panels and hope that I can overcome them. For example I’m replacing the rockers and they will not be installed until the doors are set for best fit and then the rockers will be fitted to get a good fit and fair. I’m going to give it a try wish me luck. Thanks for the thought and trying to prevent problems for me.

[my67chevytruck]

great progress Bruce, very informational.

[hgs_notes]

My advice would be that you have the option to return and exchange a part, if the body lines just won't match up. Since you plan on buying local, you should be ok. I would have been able to return one of mine except I waited too long before I tried to fit it. My mistake.

[Bruce88]

Some times I can, Some times I can’t, I always like to try, But first I have to know
Looking for factory fit and fair dimensions, maybe you can help

I’m going to be replacing fenders, doors, rockers and cab corners with reproduction panels. Before I start putting this jigsaw puzzle of panels together I would like to know what the factory was trying to shot for as far as fit and fair.

I have found factory fit and fair for the fenders, hood, cowl and front edge of the door but unable to locate the dimensions around the rest of the door (posted below). Does any one have the dimensions for the rest of the door, if so please post them

Some of the areas may not have factory dimensions, it might be as long as it doesn’t ride on the frame and it seals the factory just lived with what they had. The window frame might fall into this category, I don’t know.

Any help in gathering this information would be appreciate









It’s always nice to know even if I can’t bring it into factory specifications

[Bruce88]

Looked high and low for the information with no joy in finding it

The last few days I’ve been looking thru the books that I have and making a few phone calls to make sure I didn’t overlook anything in finding the missing factory fit and fair requirements listed in my last post.

At the time that the trucks where assembled at the factory fit and fair requirements where probably low on the priority list in making a truck. The dimensions probably exist in some GM archives, in boxes of paper drawings prior to computer stored information and is of very little access to the average individual like you and me.

Not to be denied a goal to try to achieve on my build I generated my own fit and fair requirements for the areas not found. I also enjoy doing photo manipulation and continually learning how to use PhotoShop I generated a fit and fair requirements on to one page bringing all the information together. Maybe you might fined it of benefit to you so I’ve posted it below.



In looking for the information I’ve run across a lot of good advice on this forum on how to achieve good fit and fair of my panels and would like to thank all that have posted them. This might come in handy to achieving my goal and work thru any problems.

My doors and panels are in and will be heading down to pick them up on Saturday, wish me luck on assembling this puzzle, of course you will see how it progress as it goes along on this build thread.

May all the information you need for your build be at your finger tips and easily obtained.

[VA72C10]

That is AWESOME information. This Thread will have to be a FAQ post when you are completed with the project.

[FLDBRED]

Bruce,
I don't know what you do for a living,but what ever it is you must be very successfull.Flat out AWESOME post!

[traedog]

Extreme talent + classic truck = amazing thread to keep track of.

This is an amazing build. Thank you for posting your progress in such detail. Two thumbs WAY up!

[STOCKISH]

Very informative. I like this build alot. nice work.

[Bruce88]

Like to take this time to thank all for the positive and encouraging comments it’s really appreciated and spurs me on to continue, thanks again.

I posted a correction to post #120 my mistake the dimension for locating the hole in one of the hinge sides was wrong. New picture (hinge 3a) inserted in #120 post, sorry about that.

Just keeping track of what is going into this rebuild

Being a little lazy not wanting to type in all the part numbers of the new parts. Just took some pictures of the tags and parts for the left hand side only (note the same parts will be installed on the right hand side – no part numbers or pictures posted for right hand side)

I looked at all the panels when I picked them up for damage but this just gave me a second chance to inspect them closer for damage and condition. There was a small dime size dent in the right hand fender. With all the shipping and handling of large panel parts this sometimes can be expected no need for me to reject/return it, minor repair will be required.

In all respect the TRIPLUS parts look to be of good quality with a good coat of paint inside and out. But of course the final test is when their installed and how they fit.







The next few days of work will be spent checking fit dimensions to make sure the parts will fit right and not cause any problems. With this many new parts going together if anyone of them is out it could cause problems for the others and the end results might not be as good as possible.

In Washington State we have a few weeks a year that the temperature gets into the high 80s and 90s. So here I sit in my shorts with a fan trying to keep cool, not a pretty sight but you do what you need to do. It was just a few months ago I was complaining about staying warm (LOL). The rebuild might slow some do to the weather but it will not be stopped.

[Palf70Step]

Originally Posted by Bruce88

In Washington State we have a few weeks a year that the temperature gets into the high 80s and 90s. So here I sit in my shorts with a fan trying to keep cool, not a pretty sight but you do what you need to do. It was just a few months ago I was complaining about staying warm (LOL). The rebuild might slow some do to the weather but it will not be stopped.

What no PICTURES!!

Try down here. I sure would like to see just high 80s.

Good luck on the parts fitting. I'll be curious to see how the doors work out.

[Bruce88]

It sits in the shop taking up space and not used for months on end.
For a home shop it’s a luxury but definitely comes in handy for cleaning all those small parts

For over twenty years I’ve had a small bench top sandblaster in my shop and from the first day wished I had a larger more professional one, well today I do. I think it was the largest box I’ve ever seen the UPS driver deliver and some assembly was required, anything larger and it definitely would have been a freight item.

I now have a 780-TL Skat Blast abrasive blast cabinet and a VAC-35 Skat Blast vacuum system. The small shop vac under the cabinet I used as a media recovery container with another shop vacuum and it worked fairly well with the bench top cabinet so I thought I would try it with this one (note the blades and motor are removed from it so it’s a free flow thru it)



No work accomplished on the truck this week. The temperature in Washington State has just been to hot for me, after two hours of putting the sandblasting cabinet together in the shade I was soaking wet with sweat and wore out. Sorry Palf70Step no pictures of a wore out soaking wet me (LOL). Next week is suppose to be a little cooler and might be able to get some work done.

It’s always nice to have good shop equipment for your hobby even if it’s a little extravagant and a luxury

[my67chevytruck]

sweet setup may have to look into one....

[Palf70Step]

Between heat and rain I didn't get any work done on the truck either, but I did clean out the shop some.

Nice blast cabinet. I am really thinking about one for my place also. Just got to rub some pennies together for a while first though.

[Bruce88]

Some times you have to take a side step in order to accomplish your goals
Upgrading/improving your shop falls into this category

For the last 20 + years I’ve been using a Sears Craftsman Permanently Lubricated Air Compressor 120 volt, 15 amps, 5 HP, 25 gal tank with 7.1 SCFM @ 90 psi (I don’t think Sears even makes this model any more). It’s never given me any problems over the years even thou I’ve over tasked its capabilities continually. Over the years where I’ve added more pneumatic tools to my shop it’s continually running and cant keep up with the demands that I place upon it and letting it cool down is defiantly slowing down the build.

So I’m going to take the plunge and upgrade to a Ingersoll Rand Single-stage Air Compressor Model SS5L5, 230 volt single phase, 30 amp, 5 HP, 60 gal tank with 18.1 SCFM at 90 psi (Compressor is on order and should be here in 5 to 10 days)

I’m not an electrician or a plumber but have been doing some study and finding information to do the wiring and plumbing my self.

I know this is kind of off the topic for a build thread but thought there might be some that are interested in seeing a 230 volt single phase compressor installation with wiring, plumbing, and pictures. If there are a few that are interested in seeing this installation with my personal thoughts, please post a response and I will post the installation hear.

Upgrading/improving your shop can take away time from your build but hopefully makes builds more enjoyable.

[Palf70Step]

I didn't plumb my shop as I didn't feel it was really large enough to warrant it (24x30). Here is how my setup is. I run the hose to my little wood stand with either to the oiler unit if I am running tools or to the pressure adjuster/dryer catch. I even have my hose color coordinated, black, tank to stand, orange for the air tools, blue for painting.

I just had to replace my compressor and motor on mine, so I know what you feel like loosing the compressor. Since I had a good 60 gallon tank already, replacing the motor and compressor made monitary sense. I am still just a single stage, but it works for my needs. I have a 220 outlet on the wall next to it where I can plug and unplug it easily.

[JFP Motorsports Div]

Amazing build so far Bruce! Attention to detail is flawless with the engine build.... looks great!!

Keep the updates coming!

[gcburdic]

Bruce....

Although there is very little response to your question about detailing the installation of the new compressor, I believe I'll speak for most and say.....PLEASE post your heart away with it....knowing how detailed you are, it could inspire us to upgrade our shops.....OH yeah....more power tools baby!!!haha