Project U S Army Sargent Slam

[fredscarryall]

They are dan carpenter rear inner fenders.Check out #43 on my build.They are nice quality and require no modification.

[fredscarryall]

Mocked up the grille and latch plate

[fredscarryall]

With hood closed

[fredscarryall]

Side view with first door installed. It took almost 2 hours to hang because the hinges came off one truck and the door came off another.

[fredscarryall]

Another

[fredscarryall]

Painted the inside of the bed green. Just have to paint the inner fenders

[fredscarryall]

Painted my bed strips. Took a lot more paint then I though it would

[fredscarryall]

Hung the other door last night.only took 20 minutes. But still need to set the gaps. Started staining the bed wood today. Next I need to set the running board brackets.

[deejaaa1]

looking good.

[fredscarryall]

Got both running boards mounted today.

[fredscarryall]

Finished staining the bed wood today. Still drying. Tomorrow I'm going to hit it with satin clear.

[fredscarryall]

I used minwax poly shades. Only took one coat on each side because I still wanted to see the grain in the oak. But you have to follow how they apply it on or it will leave streaks and runs. Not to happy with the 1 step sheen. Really needs more satin clear.

[fredscarryall]

Couldn't resist. Got a low mileage 1998 S10 ZR2 rear axle today. Has the standard 3.73 gov locker with disc brakes. Going to pressure wash and paint it tomorrow. Ordered cross drilled slotted rotors and ceramic brakes pads.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by fredscarryall

Couldn't resist. Got a low mileage 1998 S10 ZR2 rear axle today. Has the standard 3.73 gov locker with disc brakes. Going to pressure wash and paint it tomorrow. Ordered cross drilled slotted rotors and ceramic brakes pads.

Can you tell me the width of that axle wms to wms, I searched online and get several different answers. I want to upgrade when I install my 4 link.

Thanks

[fredscarryall]

Here are the measurement I have actually measured and just some info I collected you probably won't need it all.

S10 zr2 Wms to Wms is 63" 8.5 axles

S10 4x4 Wms to Wms 58" hard to find in gov locker 7.5 and 7.62 and some 8.5 axles

S10 2wd Wms to Wms 54.5 7.5 and 7.62 axles

Center of spring perch to center spring perch is 38 1/2"

Option codes to s10 for rear axles found in glove box door or drivers door sticker
G80 gov lock locker
Gu1 2.41
Gu2 2.73
Gu3 2.93
Gu4 3.08
Gu5 3.23
Gu6 3.42
Gt4 3.73
Gt5 4.10
Hc4 4.56

[jweb]

Thanks, that's great information.

[fredscarryall]

Finished staining the bed. Just need to bolt it in.

[fredscarryall]

Another angle

[fredscarryall]

Another

[fredscarryall]

Used 6 layers of spray on helmsman clear satin on each side.Went through 12 cans. Sprayed on really easy.

[rtinniste]

Do you have pics of your running board mounts?

[Patdade]

Nice work on your truck. Should be really fun to drive with all that engine!

[fredscarryall]

Rtinniste. It was real easy to mount the running board brackets.put a jack under the running board and bolt the back of the running board to the front of the rear fender making sure your splash shield is mounted so you get correct gaps.

[fredscarryall]

The running boards brakes come in three lengths for each side. Take either the shortiest or the medium length bracket. You should be able to use one or the other without any modification. It just depends on how high you set your cab from your frame.Lightly bolt it to the middle running board holder on the running board. At this point your front of you running board should be about a finger space from the back of rear front fender. Then the top of the running board should be about 3/8 from the bottom of the cab. At this point you can lightly tack the middle bracket to the frame or set a couple 2x4s under it to hold it up. Then go over to the other side of the truck and do the same thing. I made the mistake of tacking one side in and I had it set to far forward. Once you are happy get a good couple solid tacks on both sides.

[fredscarryall]

Now remove the jacks and or 2x4s and go to the front running board bracket.i like to take a silver sharpie.take the either the middle length bracket or the shorter length you didn't use. Hold the bracket up against the frame and and the running board holder and mark it. Do a straight cut where you want it first. Depending on where you put your cab mounts on the frame. You may have to notch the bracket to fit around the cab frame mount. When you are happy tack it in. I decided to not do the back running board bracket. Some may say welding it like this won't give your running boards much structure. But my friend stood on it and he is 300 lbs and it didn't move. Since I have a lowered suspension there no reason for someone to stand on the running board. You should be able to swing your legs in. Unless someone is really short,you can alway gusset it. To finish weld remove the running board. Then if you can. it would be best to jack up the cab. There isn't much room under there to weld. There are tons of ways to do this. But this was the easiest quickest and cheapest way for me. Hope this helps. Also my pictures didn't turn out, so I had to use some off the internet and I'm not sure who took them.