57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[FAKKY]

Think Im going to go to store and get 2ft copper pipe.
Flatten it and make a small "L" at end.

that way I can feed through the air slits and provide a backing whilst welding from underside.
Might work.

Else JB weld. And deal with it if/when it becomes an issue.

[Black_Sheep]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Think Im going to go to store and get 2ft copper pipe.
Flatten it and make a small "L" ay end.

that wauy I can feed through the air slits and provide a backing whilst welding from underside.
Might work.

Else JB weld. And deal with it if/when it becomes an issue.

The copper pipe trick works good. Eastwood makes a copper backer with a magnetic base for those hard to reach areas. It wouldn't take much to duplicate it if you are so inclined.

[FAKKY]

Thanks. The copper pipe flattened out worked a treat. Threaded it down and covered the hole and welded from underside.
I'll get some POR15 on both sides to help seal any pinholes if they exist (didnt see any with flashlight) and just general protection from rust ......

[FAKKY]

Trying to get back on this old horse .................... so hard to keep motivated even with the end in sight.

OIL PAN SWAP.

Source => EBAY [AUTO-CUSTARDS] $230
OIL PAN-12628771

OIL PICKUP TUBE-12558251

DEFLECTOR,ENGINE-12558253

OIL DIPSTICK TUBE-12551577

[FAKKY]

[FAKKY]

Engine sat for a while at a shop. Never been inside an engine from either topside or bottomside. Engine had approx 90k miles.

Rod and main Crank bearings had 0 play ... couldnt get them to move... tight
Crosshatching still there on cylinder walls looking via inspection camera from top. Looks good from backside also in pics above.
Inspected before from topside with inspection camera and could see crosshatching and all looked good no visible damage to pistons.


So ...... only issue is the coloration. I think its a mix of small amount of heat as well as oil from being sat in shop. I dont see any major issues ...... especially with;

Crosshatching good
Leakdown test good
Cylinders clean
No play in journal bearings.
rotates fine.

So think it looks ok. Thoughts ? from more experienced eyes.

Does someone have the torque specs an reassembly procedure for the new oi pan and pickup tube. --> NM found them -- see the broken bolt below

Think you have to do in certain order due to the pickup orientation.
Also ... plan to just use razorblad and some mineral spirits on the pan surface to block where old gasket is.
New pan might give a quick light blast of brake cleaner.

[FAKKY]

Well busted a bolt off in the oil pump .........

tried a left hand bit from HF and got lucky !!

[dsraven]

those oil pumps have issues with the pick up tube o ring leaking. make sure to change the o ring and also take the bypass valve apart and clean the plunger and piston bore.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

those oil pumps have issues with the pick up tube o ring leaking. make sure to change the o ring and also take the bypass valve apart and clean the plunger and piston bore.

You tell me 10 minutes after shes all buttoned back up New pan came with new pickup and new oring.

[FAKKY]

Good article on setting transmisison in correctly ....... and the torque convertor.

Found teh two starter bolts are great as dowel guides - but at $5 each ...... going to go to hardware store and loko for a cheaper option.

http://www.wwdsltd.com/4L60/4L60EInstallation.html

https://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/...96b43f8025eefc

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...allations.html

[Black_Sheep]

Your engine looks pretty good inside.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by Black_Sheep

Your engine looks pretty good inside.

Thanks !!
You never really know when your buying something and since I've never been into an engine before - even with it somewhat apart hard to be 100% sure.

But with all those factors together and how clean the transmission was .... going to run it

Think Im going to bite the bullet and do a high mount AC swap ...... looks like around $400-$500 all in.

Any recommendations ?

[FAKKY]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3eVySRDDn4

updated video .......... on engine fitment ...

thoughts ?
.

[mikebte]

I second, engine looks nice, you will have that discoloration. I have been in a lot of newer engines that have that.

As everyone said, replace the o-ring for the pick up tube and it wont hurt to have a fresh oil pump.
My 08 LS has 150K miles and holds good oil pressure, but I always fear the day it gets low.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by mikebte

I second, engine looks nice, you will have that discoloration. I have been in a lot of newer engines that have that.

As everyone said, replace the o-ring for the pick up tube and it wont hurt to have a fresh oil pump.
My 08 LS has 150K miles and holds good oil pressure, but I always fear the day it gets low.

thanks ... good to know !

[FAKKY]

[FAKKY]

Well ...... got that out ..... took me about 3 hours with welding setup and probably about 3 attempts ...... never had to do that before ..... so good to learn also ...

[yossarian19]

Few thoughts,

That CPP pedal box kit is "fine", I guess, though it positions the brake pedal *really* high. I had to pick my leg up so my kneed was into the steering wheel to get my foot onto it. Your mileage may vary. Also - the firewall flexes when you step on the brakes hard. You may want to add bracing somehow.

The engine, as it sits in the video, is low enough to the crossmember that I wonder if you could remove the oil pan without pulling the engine out or at least jacking it up off the mounts..? Something to consider.

I would stuff it as far back as you can and start low, raising it until you can fit some manifolds or headers in there. I think the narrowest factory manifolds are either the Corvette or F body ones? Somewhere, I'm sure, the internet can tell us. The Hooker manifolds look good, too.

Don't move it forward. Not until you have the core support, radiator & fans in place. You don't want to run out of room up there. Ask me how I know

Starting to think about parts-gathering to borrow some of your ideas for my own truck. Looks great! Keep it up! It's going to be hella satisfying to drive it.

[FAKKY]

Thanks - and good tips as always.

Just finishing off the sheet metal welding in the door pillar and foot step on passenger side. Then going to rust treat with some POR15. After that going to let the wife do the interior insulation ...... cutting and setting all the matt ...... guess I'll have to get the transmission floor shifter in place first though.

Something like this maybe.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-4L60-Sin...pWbn:rk:1:pf:0


Asides that ......... like you said going to try and move it as far back as I can. I *think* I have plenty of verticle room looking at where the hood would be if it was on ........ but hard to know for sure without pulling it out which would be a bit of a drama.

I gave up on AC stock fitment - went with Billet ICT relocation
https://www.jegs.com/i/ICT-Billet/33...94X-3/10002/-1


So ....... goal is to TRY and get this all done by wifes birthday in April .... now that the heat is tarting to go ....... will see .... be tight ... lots to do.

[yossarian19]

To paraphrase my old man, you can always do things faster if you do them half-fast
Take your time. Don't burn out. Go to car meets or watch events coverage if you need motivation. It'll get done.

[FAKKY]

Finished up welding some pinholes on the passenger side patch panel. THinks its good enough for paint (POR15). I'll then smooth it out a little with bondo.

Im still struggling a little on engine posiion. Mainly I'd like to get it another 1-2 inches back but having problems with clearance. Mainly with the black fuel rail protection plate thing ..... but also just the firewall lips themselves in the middle.

Has anyone got a pic of their LS sitting in a TF era truck ? Or know a thread that has a good pic for reference ?



I checked the front core support just to see what it looked like ....

[FAKKY]

Here;'s how the transmisison sits in the tunnel ....





The floor plate fits fine. Think I might go with a tailshaft mount shifter. Need to see how adjustable the transmission mounts are up and down.

[FAKKY]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lokar-GM-4L...EJv:rk:58:pf:0

[FAKKY]

took the fuel rail protector off and shifted it back 1" ..... thats all I can get out of her I think. If I was doing it again I would square that edge off on the middle to give more clearance.

Now need to work on paint for my patch panel and motor mounts.

[dsraven]

what is your engine angle? usually down in the rear about 3 deg.
is there room to drop it some so it can go back without hitting the floor?