Jesses' 48 PU

[Jesse49chevy]

Had to cut the inside to replace the water drain chanel.

[Jesse49chevy]

This is what I was afraid of the most, it rolls up and bends longways and then has that bend on the right...

[Jesse49chevy]

[Jesse49chevy]

I took my replacement patch, bent it 90' on my small metal break. Spot welded it to a one inch pipe and hammered the roll.

[Jesse49chevy]

Clamped my piece to the cab and hammered a bit more until I was happy with the Fitment.

[Jesse49chevy]

Took it to my Harbor Freight shrink and stretcher set and carefully made adjustments until I felt it was right.

[Jesse49chevy]

Measure once, twice, three times a lady...lol... And cut once, spot weld.

[Jesse49chevy]

[Jesse49chevy]

[Jesse49chevy]

I have to admit that I surprised myself. Feels good to accomplish this without having the fancy expensive tools. Did it just like my old man taught me... I was really afraid to tackle these patches...but where there is a will, there is a way...

[oldman3]

Very nice job on the repair...Jim

[lower50's]

Very nice work!!! It's great when a job turns out better than you thought it would.

[gigamanx]

Looks like a solid repair. Hopefully when I take my glass out of the cab I don't find the same educational "gems." haha

[8man]

Wow, I'm bringing my stuff to your house! Nice job.

[Jesse49chevy]

Hello everyone... It's been a long time since I post any pics. Truth is, I haven't worked on my truck since I last posted an update. Due to my busy schedule, travels, family etc... I have been walking by my project hoping I would have time. My garage got so cluttered, it took a weekend to clean and organize so I could work. Finally I put everything and everyone off and got back on it. I had the motor mounts welded in and needed the trans cross member, so that's where I started. I pulled the cab off, mocked up the tranny, set engine at 3 degrees and realized It sat to high and I needed to fix it as it was taking up too much cab space. I figured out that when I first grafted the S10 clip, for some reason I did it wrong, so I cut it off and rewelded it level. I boxed in the frame with 3/16 metal half way back. Once that was done I started on the trans cross member.
Here is how I initially grafted the clip, 2.5 inches higher that the frame. Guess I thought it was a shortcut to drop the truck.

[Jesse49chevy]

I cut, fitted and mocked up the trans cross member

[Jesse49chevy]

[Jesse49chevy]

Mig welded 4"x 4" 3/16 metal at the ends, drilled 4 x 7/16 holes so I can bolt it to the frame.

[Jesse49chevy]

Used a 7/16 center punch to mark my holes, used a step bit to drill my holes. I used flange nuts, so when I drilled the holes, I went far enough to counter sink the nut flush and welded it. This way my nuts are centered.
I got this idea from "Idaho Fabricator" a young man on YouTube.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Jesse49chevy

.....This way my nuts are centered.

Well, would ANY man tolerate off center nuts?

(Sorry, I couldn't pass up the lead in)

Really enjoying what I've read so far.

Question: What type of MIG welder are you using? I ask because I have a Hobart 140 that is supposed to be able to weld up to 3/16" but I have doubted if it can really get penetration on that thick material.

[Jesse49chevy]

Thanks guys...trying to do what I can to keep it going. I use my Millermatic 135 to Mig weld. I bevel the edges to get as much penetration and run it a bit hotter than suggested. I have yet to use my new Eastwood Mig 250. I bought it a while back but was put up all of this time. I finally put it together and as my luck would have it, it didn't work right so I sent it back. Just got the replacement but have yet to unbox it. Kinda skeptical now, but my Millermatic is old and acting up so guess I'll break it out soon...

[Jesse49chevy]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Well, would ANY man tolerate off center nuts?

(Sorry, I couldn't pass up the lead in)

Really enjoying what I've read so far.

Question: What type of MIG welder are you using? I ask because I have a Hobart 140 that is supposed to be able to weld up to 3/16" but I have doubted if it can really get penetration on that thick material.

Lol... I was wondering when someone would comment on my centered nuts...

[dsraven]

don't cut up the axle, just get a centered one or deal with the offset. if you do wanna cut up an axle might as well make it a tougher unit. the 8.8 is plentiful compared to the 9". if buying all new stuff it wouldn't matter. the 8.8 is usually offset except in mustangs. lots of guys just redrill the axles and rotors for a chevy pattern. some cut the long side and make it the same length as the short side then use a short side axle in the cut off side. 8.8 comes with 3.73 ratio and posi with discs and an easy park brake set up. it's almost a 9" and is a copy of the 12 bolt almost too.
if using the offset diff you really have to look closely at the driveline angles both from the side and from the top view.
curious on the center cross member. do you plan to have a full circle (oblong) on the driveshaft loop?

[Jesse49chevy]

Originally Posted by dsraven

don't cut up the axle, just get a centered one or deal with the offset. if you do wanna cut up an axle might as well make it a tougher unit. the 8.8 is plentiful compared to the 9". if buying all new stuff it wouldn't matter. the 8.8 is usually offset except in mustangs. lots of guys just redrill the axles and rotors for a chevy pattern. some cut the long side and make it the same length as the short side then use a short side axle in the cut off side. 8.8 comes with 3.73 ratio and posi with discs and an easy park brake set up. it's almost a 9" and is a copy of the 12 bolt almost too.
if using the offset diff you really have to look closely at the driveline angles both from the side and from the top view.
curious on the center cross member. do you plan to have a full circle (oblong) on the driveshaft loop?

Dsraven, thanks for the advise. I have a decision to make but this axle is not worth the time cutting it up. It's a full inch off so, I'm afraid it will wobble, and damage the u-joints or other parts. I'll either find a centered one or go with a 8.8 as you mention. As far as the loop, at first I did not plan in closing it up, but after I welded it in, I think it will flex so was thinking of closing in the bottom side to make it rigid. Thoughts?

[Jesse49chevy]