The "Frankenstine" build;

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by T-P Auto

I can not find the old style dash lite for the gauges(metal snap in type)see post 170 to see the gauge tub for the lite hold in the back of the gauge tubs.

Don't know if they are the same but here is a pic of my instrument that shows the stock and replacement I got. Also the NAPA replacement box.

[T-P Auto]

Hello;

OrrieG;

Thanks for the info;
I had a friend here in town that has some old cars n he gave me about 8 old type lite holders.
Just have to clean them up n get New bulbs for them;
WOW the bulbs are like 2.50 each, shock4shock.


T-P Auto
Tim

[T-P Auto]

Hello;

Got the radiator in from Speedway.

How I got to work on building the front end to fit the radiator.
Will try to keep the steps posted on here for everyone.
Here is the start pics.

Had to do some work on the ps hood as well as need to work on the hood hinge as it locks over when the hood is raised all the way up.

Think I need to move the hinge down on the body some more, n even bend down the hood hinge mounting points.

T-P Auto
Tim

[Advanced Design]

Good steady progress Tim. Sounds like you have the bulb issue sorted out.

[T-P Auto]

Hello everyone;

"MERRY CHRISTMAS"

Advance D; Yes, I got the bulbs done.

How just trying to get the radiator mounting all figured out.
With the amount of drop I put on the cab to start with it is giving me some real problems to think thur.
I still have to pull the fenders in at the top to fit the old radiator support.
Will have to cut out the front of the old radiator U support to fit the NEW radiator in to.
Will try to get some pics tomorrow, to show what I have n what I'm trying to do to set the radiator in the truck.

Also thinking about trying to find a rack n pinon to put under truck for steering.
This would let me put the complete radiator U frame in the truck.

Just have to wait n see which way is the best for me to do.(cost type thing)

Still working on the gauges(oil n water) set up with pods to set them into.

T-P Auto
Tim

[T-P Auto]

Hello;

Well still working on the radiator support.
Done some work on the gauge holder for the water n oil, (pic)
Still have a few mor steps to go till I set in the truck.
Been trying to find a r/p to install under the front end.
Have tried these so far;
ford explorer - too wide
cavalier - to wide
dodge dokota - to wide
mustang II - could not find one
pinto - could not find one

Cked the parts stores with no luck, none had any measurements for leight,
from tie rod to tie rod. mine is like 44.5"

Well back to the old drawing board.
Thinking about going a head n set the radiator in at n off set.
Tried to set it in stright up on top of the gear box. It will fit but looks like crap, to much radiator sticking up above the fender when the hood is open.
Will make a pattern out of cardboard to find the place to set or cut the old radiator support at.Also where to put the lower support also.

T-P Auto
Tim

[T-P Auto]

pics

[lower50's]

Wow looks Great. It's great to see your leg is not holding you back. You are an inspiration to all!!

[T-P Auto]

Hello Everyone;

Hope everyone had a great Christmas.

Got back to work on the project the past couple of days.
Worked on getting the radiator frame fitted to the fenders.(pic)
Got the radiator fitted to the frame. (pic)
Got the hood support fitted to the radiator. (pic)
Got it all installed except for rad holding brackets (next)
Got the radiator,hood support all installed n clearence is good.(pic)
Got a glove box cover,speaker cover w ash tray. (pic)

It took some time to get the radiator frame cut n fitted to the fenders.

Just an update on the project for everyone.
Will have a couple of post of pic to follow.

T-P Auto
Tim

[T-P Auto]

more pic

[T-P Auto]

one more pic

[Advanced Design]

You've been busy Tim!
Hope the shop is staying warm enough.

[T-P Auto]

i Ad;

It is warm, not really hot.
The roof is like 11' on one side n 9.5 on the other side.
Wanted a good pitch on this one for runoff.

I did some swap work to get the side windows w vents,back glass,glove box door n speaker cover w ash tray.
Had a hard time try to figure out the radiator fit.
I think it looks good where it is now.
Just have to find the radiator hoses to fit now.
Always something else to figure out.

I also found that I did not get the bed on totally square.
I have like .75 on the ps n.00 on the ds for tire clearence.
So looks like I have to pick up the bed n open the holes that the bed mounts too to give me the space for the wheels..
Will still have to use a spacer ring(.38) to move the tire out for tire side wall clearence.

I also think that when I took th dents out of the hood it warped the hood some.
How that I have the radiator frame mounted to the fenders I have the hood hitting on the fenders.
Still have to get the ps hood hinge removed n inlarge the mounting holes to lower the hinge down on the cab. All this will effect the way the hood fits.

Still have a lot of small time work to do on the windows n the body.

T-P Auto
Tim

SO how is the wife doing?
Hope she is feeling better.
How are you holding up?

Tim

[oldman3]

You've been keeping busy, lets us know how moving the beds works out...Jim

[T-P Auto]

Hello!
Went out to try n work in the shop this morning.

BRRRRRRR

It is like 2 deg outside n feels colder in the shop.
Forgot to get propane on Sat.
So will go do that today(later) after it warms up some,
Hi today is like 36 deg.
With concrete floor fells colder.

T-P Auto
Tim

[T-P Auto]

Hello;

It warmed up some today.

I went out to look at the hood to fender clearness(pic),I think that with taking the big dents out of the hood(dolly n hammer).
I feel that It might have caused the hood to spring out at the fender area.
I can put a ratchet strap on the hood n pull it back in to fit the fenders.
I fell that I might have to give the hood some heat while pulled in.
I hope that will let the hood will dome back up. Will keep the ratchet on the hood till the hood cools off. Try it ck it then do it again till it fits.
How that I got the radiator support n fender all together, working on the fender fit.
The rear hood hinges will have to be adjusted all so. So some work to do there also. Just a lot of fit n refit till (I'm Happy)done.

Has anyone ever seen a set of these(pic)rain deflectors?
I come across them when I got the speaker grill, glove box parts.(pic)
before n after of speaker glove grill

Have the radiator mounted in the support, how I have to fab some lower holder mounts n a set of upper mounts also. (pic)

Will show several different views of the hood fit to fenders.

T-P Auto
Tim

[T-P Auto]

Hello;
More pic

T-P Auto
Tim

[T-P Auto]

Still more pic;

[Advanced Design]

Haven't seen the deflectors before Tim.
Some hood alignment challenges there. Is there enough adjustment to bring it closer?
Good it warmed up a bit.

[T-P Auto]

AD

hello;

I think once I get the rear part of the hinge back n down,so the hood set down in the back n lower also .
I hope this will let the hood fit the cab then so to the side n front.
I still think that I will have to put some heat to the hood .
I will just have to take it one step at a time.

I had never seen the deflectors either,so that is the reason I got them.
Just something different.

Looking for more cold weather Wed or Thur.

T-P Auto
Tim

[T-P Auto]

Hello Everyone.

Hope everyone had a great holiday season;

Well got back on the hood problem.
I think that when I took the" BIG" dents out of the hood,
it caused me to flatten the hood out some,
which caused the out side edge of the hood to step out on the fenders(shows last post)
I have placed a pull strap on the hood at 12" back n pulled the hood into the 37" that I need for the hood to fit the fender openings.
I first did a measure of hood at 12" off the truck;
off truck (38.25) with hood dome at (10.25)
need (37.00)
w strap press (37.00) w hood dome (10.50)

This tells me that with the hood pulled in to (37.00) that it pushed the dome back up (.25)

This is just the first measure.
Looking to measure at;
#1 - 12"
#2 - 18"
#3 - 28"
#4 - 40"

With pulling all thees points in,I think the hood dome will come back up.

My measurements are:

Hood off Hood Opening

#1 - 38" #1 - 37"
#2 - 42" #2 - 40"
#3 - 50" #3 - 47"
#4 - 55" #4 - 53"

My next question is:
If I put the strap press on at each point n pull in to the measurements that
I need,
then hit the hood with some heat the full lengh
till the strap relax just a little,
then stop the heat n let the hood cool down .
Will this let the hood dome retain the measurement that I need to fit the hood to the opening??

Any n all thought will be appreciated very much.

T-P Auto
Tim

[Advanced Design]

Tim,

I am not knowledgable enough on applying heat in this manner to know for sure what will happen. Thinking aloud...the heat applied in the middle will cause that area to shrink...believe that will reduce the crown in the hood flattening it out. Don't know that will pull the sides in....and I could be way wrong too.

Wish I could help more.

[T-P Auto]

AD;

I do not know either.
Would it be better if I just pulled the hood in at the four places,then turned
the hood so that I could just work it with a hammer/dolly? (no heat)
Just trying to get some type of ideal which way to go.
I guess I could just go for it n see what happens?
Most I could do is ruin the hood or just maybe it would work?
Heat usually expainds
cold contracts
I know that on my gauge bracket the heat bent the metal more then it was?
So if it was your hood which would you try?

On your cover I think a cover that copies the outside fender look would be great (just on a smaller scale)

Hope your doing good n the wife is feeling better.

T-P Auto
Tim

[Advanced Design]

Yes, heat expands and cold contracts....and I had to modify my thinking a bit ...as I learned from my metal shaping buddies, the heat applied to say an outward dent in the middle of a panel (or a crown) will cause that dent (or crown) to shrink down. I probably am not knowledgable enough to provide a good explanation as to how this works...something to do with the metal molecules around the perimeter of the heat zone being squeazed together into the colder molecules. A great way to shrink a dent is to use a shrinking disk on a grinder.

If this was my hood I would try to get it back into a factory position...using the tools to move the metal around...slapper, hammer, dolly, shrinking disk....and I would do this before applying heat down the middle.

Thanks for the well wishes for my wife and appreciate your thoughts on the hole cover for our Burb. That is the way I am going to try to go.

[T-P Auto]

AD

With all the work you have done with metal,i just though that you could give me some good advice.
That is the though I had with the heat.
I do not know what a slapper
or a shrinking disk is!
My though with the heat it would bring the metal back to shape.
I did a LOT of hammer/dolly on the dents from the inside of the hood.
I though it look good till I got the radiator support mounted with the fenders.
You can see how much the hood overlaps the fender(early post).
I also took the cab hood hinges off n cut the holes down n back to set the hood lower.
The problem is that the cab hood hinge is very sloppy on the riverts.
All I can do is give it a try with the heat.
nouthy to loose.

T-P Auto
Tim