"Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis

[HUSSEY]

Hey Bartman, you know, your video and build is where I got the positioning of the cab mount 2 in. forward of the "oval hole" in the frame. I had also studied your build several years ago when getting started on mine. There's a lot of great info on here and I'm a big believer of not trying to re-invent the wheel, but rather try to make improvements on it.

I've had fun documenting my build hoping that it may help others along the way. I'd say mine is a pretty good composite of many of the good ideas I had picked up from other threads.

I understand the life thing, I've been at mine for several years now. Hope to see some updates and where you go on your truck.

[iowaboynca]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

I understand the life thing, I've been at mine for several years now.

This made me chuckle....

[HUSSEY]

^^^^^
Look for P/N 30-2330 on LMCs Website. Their diagram provides a good description of what it is.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=26

[kameltoes2015]

Thanks for that info.

[HUSSEY]

Getting everything wired up is my next major task at hand. I’ve divided up the wiring into three major groups 1) Power Supply and Starting System, 2) Engine Wiring, and 3) Chassis Wiring. The engine wiring is in place and was fairly easy though I still have couple circuits I have to integrate into the chassis wiring harness. I’ve also got the power supply done.

I made up a hot start kit for my starter anticipating possible hot start issues with headers, been there before. On the starter I used a small piece of copper tubing hammered flat to jump the start terminal and the battery cable terminal. I then installed a Ford starter solenoid back at the battery. This keeps the starter power cable from being powered all the time and will reduce the start terminal wiring voltage drop notorious on hot GM starter solenoids which pull a decent amount of current. For the starter cable I used 1/0 AWG welding cable I picked up on eBay.

I have two power supply cables. Each of the power supply cables run through a maxi fuse made by Cooper Busman, these holders are nice and were around $10. The power cables are 6 AWG welding cables. One supply runs to the cab which provides power to the fuse block. The other runs to the front of the truck which will provide power to the electric fan, headlights, and future fog lights (via relays). Everything is hooked up to the battery via military style battery terminals. Here are a few in-progress pics.

[dug224]

Man, love the attention to detail. Great photos. dug

[joedoh]

look at all those adel clamps!

what great attention to detail, I wish I had a fifth of it. look at all that new hardware too, just staggeringly gorgeous.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

look at all those adel clamps!

So that's what those buggers are called, "adel" clamps. I had a hard time finding them at a good price, the hardware store wants $1/piece. I bought 50 in three different sizes from a guy on eBay that sells them in bulk, he called them P-Clamps. A search on eBay for adel clamps turned up 500+ results!

FYI...I've experienced that eBay has been a great source for misc. items like wire loom, electrical crimp terminals, wire, cable, adel clamps. heat shrink, switches etc. Most vendors ship for free, or for a low fee with combined shipping, and stuff typically gets out within a day.

[av8tr33337]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

So that's what those buggers are called, "adel" clamps. I had a hard time finding them at a good price, the hardware store wants $1/piece. I bought 50 in three different sizes from a guy on eBay that sells them in bulk, he called them P-Clamps. A search on eBay for adel clamps turned up 500+ results!

FYI...I've experienced that eBay has been a great source for misc. items like wire loom, electrical crimp terminals, wire, cable, adel clamps. heat shrink, switches etc. Most vendors ship for free, or for a low fee with combined shipping, and get stuff typically gets out within a day.

Hey HUSSEY do you remember what size clamps you ordered???? Not sure whats best for the fuel line. I would also like to get a few for my 3/16? brake lines.

Thanks Bartman

[47 Fasttoys]

40 hours.....hahaha, I ended up with over 200 hours in my wiring. The only advice I can give is run spares as you will be adding things you may not think of later.
Rob

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by av8tr33337

Hey HUSSEY do you remember what size clamps you ordered???? Not sure whats best for the fuel line. I would also like to get a few for my 3/16? brake lines.

Thanks Bartman

Hey Bartman, I ordered an assortment of 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8 in. They came marked 10, 12, and 16 mm. which is close. I got them from eBay seller ael-supply:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/ael-supply/m...1&_ipg=&_from=

I found out that I used mostly the 12 mm clamps. I ended up buying more 12's from him. He will also combine shipping.

[joedoh]

I still have a few in my toolbox from when I was an avionics tech! sometimes when you would run a couple extra wires, engineering would call out the next larger size for the bundle. regrettably I have used the zip ties with the holes instead on most of my stuff. haha

[84blaze]

Can you measure for me how far your running board mounts hang below the frame?

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by 84blaze

Can you measure for me how far your running board mounts hang below the frame?

No problem, I'll grab a measurement next time I'm in the garage.

[1952ssr]

I took one like you have and mated the old with the new on mine. Just used some 2 part epoxy and worked like a champ.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by 84blaze

Can you measure for me how far your running board mounts hang below the frame?

I had forgot about this but captured a pic when I was in the garage last night. Looks like 1-1/4 in.

[HUSSEY]

I recently placed an order with 4RCustoms. He has an eBay store and a webpage which fills custom wire orders. I put together a list and he priced me out an order of 12 color coded wires. I had a couple circuits I wanted to add to my chassis wiring harness plus I wanted to maintain the correct colors for a few of the wires which stretch from the engine wiring harness to the chassis wiring harness. I’ve gotten a few of these added to my harness and have a couple more to go then I’ll be ready to get the fuse box mounted up and start pulling and terminating wire.

[HUSSEY]

I’ve been knocking out the wiring bit by bit. I spent a couple days organizing the harness, re-routing a couple wires in it and adding a couple circuits. I think I also just spent a couple days staring at it making sure I had all the wires bundled into the groups I wanted, studying where everything would hook up, and planning my wire routing. I’m using a Painless Performance 21 circuit harness, P/N 10101. It was a bit pricy though so far I don’t have any complaints. Here’s a couple random pictures of the progress.

[99 to Life]

oh yah, wiring takes so much longer than people think. Just figuring out the "best" spot for the panel, making a backing panel and getting it mounted takes hours. I always say a decent wire job takes atleast 40hrs. Prolly way more you start adding door poppers and air ride etc.

have you ever used this loom? I really like this stuff, you can get different colors too. They make split and tube. http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-FT-1-2-B...MAAOSwZtJW9Z84

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

have you ever used this loom? I really like this stuff, you can get different colors too. They make split and tube. http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-FT-1-2-B...MAAOSwZtJW9Z84

I have seen that type of loom but not at that good of price. I think it's more attractive than the common plastic loom, I may have to get some a try it for some of my under hood wiring.

[joedoh]

I have dealt with wiring in most of my careers (installer, avionics tech, engineer) nothing makes me less excited than doing wiring, but nothing makes me more excited than seeing wiring done right. you are doing it right!

[HUSSEY]

You all might have noticed that the print on the fuse block is upside down. This would be one gripe I have with the wiring harness. Painless routed the wiring out of the bottom and not the top, which makes little sense to me. You really can't simply flip the harness because the wires would be then be in somewhat of a bind, they lay more naturally staying with the way Painless routed them.

[HUSSEY]

^^^^^
Thanks, keeping it clean and organized is what helps keep my sanity.

[oldman3]

Very nice job on the wiring...Jim

[HUSSEY]

I'm still working on the wiring. I've got the rear lights working, gauges hooked up, indicator lights, ECM, and I'm currently finishing off the under-hood. Following that it'll be the front lights. It was satisfying last night to put the main fuse in and see the turn signal, parks, brakes, and turn lights and signal indicators all working like they should. I think I'll be right about 99's 40 hr estimate, well maybe closer to 50. Having bought an aftermarket ECU harness for my fuel injection saved quite a bit of time. The wiring itself hasn't been very challenging, what takes most of the time is the physical routing.