1986 Chevy C10 SWB Step Side

[aotte1]

Lower control arm

[aotte1]

Another of the lower control arm

[aotte1]

Lower control arm shaft with modification increasing caster. This is the left side control arm.

[aotte1]

Been working on cutting the original front springs one coil off the bottom. Used a portable band saw ( hand held, made by Porter Cable) to cut the coil off. The cut was made perpendicular to the length of the spring. Cutting this way provides a flat area on the bottom of the spring to fit in the lower control arm spring grove like the spring did before cutting. This way, the spring will have less tendency to bend in a arc as it compresses.

This is a very slow cutting process, and I used a home made clamp/ bar to bolt the spring to work bench for cutting. The bar/clamp was a 6 inch piece of bar stock ( 1.5 " in width) with hole in center, spring placed on bench, "clamp" placed inside spring, bolt placed through hole in bar stock, spring, and through bench. Nut placed on bolt under work bench, and tighten down, thereby, securely holding spring FIRMLY to bench. Marked cut line perpendicular to length of spring, so that the beginning of cut is parallel to original end of spring ( this way it will fit in lower control arm in same rotational orientation as before cutting one coil).
Pictures of spring after cutting, cleaning in media cabinet with alu oxide 120 grit, then painting with gloss black ( actual paint used to be provided).

Next will start assembling suspension.

[aotte1]

Another picture of spring

[aotte1]

This picture shows their is a nice flat part of the spring to fit the lower control arm.

[aotte1]

This is just my thinking for why I chose cutting one coil off bottom of front springs as a way to lower front of truck.
1). I am new to working on these trucks, so have no direct knowledge of how changes effect the truck. Thank you to all the members here who have helped me by answering my questions !!
2). I am a go slow person, change one thing at a time and record results.
3. This process for me was an easy way to start lowering, with minimal steering and other effects (headers dragging , wheel back space issue, no problem with 8" wide wheels, 275x60x15 tires all the way around, etc.).
4. For me just want to lower some, basically have top of tires and wheel well opening at similar height. And
5). Low costs.

Will post pictures of truck in a few months ( body shop report- very slow progress, front fenders in primer, last week) hopefully.

Les

[aotte1]

Did some more work on the suspension, installed the lower control arms with the 3/4 inch caster modification. First, test fit the modified lower control arms onto the crossmember subframe. The crossmember was upside down to make checking clearance easier. What I found was that their needed to be a little more clearance between the lower control arm and the subframe.
The additional clearance was gained by rolling the edge of the subframe in some.
Since I did not need a lot of clearance, chose to roll the edge versus cutting the crossmember for clearance. I got this idea from another member who did the same thing. The rolled approach also keeps a little more strength in the crossmember. Picture of crossmember with lower control arm installed.

[aotte1]

Picture of the subframe edge rolled in to provide clearance for caster mod on lower control arm.

[aotte1]

The other side of subframe modified for clearance

[aotte1]

The U-bolts for one control arm had spread and would not go back in holes on subframe. Used drill press vice to squeeze them a little.

[aotte1]

With the squeeze on they slipped right into the crossmember.

[aotte1]

Another picture of the crossmember with edge rolled in for lower control arm caster modification clearance.

[SkinnyG]

Originally Posted by aotte1

The additional clearance was gained by rolling the edge of the subframe in some.

You make it sound so clinical (grin). On mine, it hit. I beat it with an FBH (Fairly Big Hammer) until it don't hit no mo'.

I thought from your earlier post, that you weren't going to do the caster mod. Good to see you going for it.

[aotte1]

SkinnyG,
Thanks for the info on your approach with FBH, did the same thing.
Not meaning to be too technical. Just trying to provide info. will try to elevate it more in the future, my wife says their is not much hope for me.

[aotte1]

Another picture showing clearance. The modified control arm just rubbed the crossmember at the lower travel limit before using FBH.

[aotte1]

Picture "fairly big hammer " (FBH) mentioned above and the ratchet strap used to compress front springs for installation. Used one strap wrapped around coils at about 90 degrees clockwise from bottom tail of spring. This strap location allows the strap to be removed once the spring is installed ( both upper and lower control arm attached to spinal).

[aotte1]

More work completed on front suspension: installation of front springs ( one coil cut off to lower truck - 2"); upper control arm; and spindle. Attached the spindle to upper control arm (threaded nut on just to bottom of threads- giving myself more travel/ distance to attach lower control ball joint to spindle with spring installed). For me it is easier to attach lower control arm, when installing spring. The spring as mentioned above is compressed with one strap, and fits in and allow the lower control arm to be raised enough to install the ball joint/ spindle nut by hand. Keeping every thing in its proper place took me a couple of tries, especially the spring, kept falling out. Installed spring top first, rotated so that the lower tail would be just above the small location hole in lower control arm. The top of spring needs to be rotated so that it seats in the crossmember correctly. Before trying to install spring, I test fit top of spring into crossmember with the lower control relaxed, not contacting spring. I was seeing what rotation/position spring needs to be in to fit into crossmember.

Now wIth top of spring in place held their by raised lower control to keep it their. Next raised lower control arm a little more and installed lower ball joint nut. Tighten both ball joint nuts and removed the strap compressing spring.

[aotte1]

Picture showing side view, includes the camber mod to lower control arm, the lower control arm shaft shows mod, extended forward 3/4".

[aotte1]

Another front side picture.

[aotte1]

Picture of spindle front. The spindles are the original ones on the truck.
Brakes will be next.
Les

[aotte1]

Thought of a couple more things on front spring installation. The ratchet straps were warped around the spring leaving one coil at both the top and bottom outside the strap. For the straps used which I purchased at SAMs Club , they were tighten about 5 cycles once slack taken up. With the original springs cut one coil ( per many here, including Keith S ) they installed very easy by hand.

Also here is a picture of the spray can paint used on the springs ( black gloss) that I mentioned would post. It came highly recommended by local auto paint store, as being very durable. This my first time using, so will see how durable it is. Sprayed very nice to a high gloss.

[aotte1]

Weekly body shop report on truck painting progress, another . A little work done this week, hood under side ready for priming, along with rear bed panel stripped. Three high paying insurance jobs now in front of truck. Until they are done, truck relegated to free time during their completion. Under stand as I am paying no were close to the rate they are charged.

[aotte1]

Inside of doors also readied for primer.

[aotte1]

Front suspension continuing to work on.

Today picked up rebuilt front brake calipers ( JB1 is my brake package, light duty manual), seals, and bearings. Will clean up rotors, they measure 1.002 in thickness in several places, so should be OK.
Working on decision for front brake pads. ACDelco has three grades of pads it looks like, lower grade will not consider. OEM semi-metallic are 171-0933-89, most expensive ( get them while you can? New regs in a year or two will mandate very low metal content for certain elements); Ceramic pads in professional grade are 17D-52C. They sound good too. I am leaning toward semi-metallic. My thinking is a little better initial stopping with cool brakes. Still researching for any test data.

NOTE: All this is for JB1 OEM brake package! Pads only should be same for JB 1,3,&5 brake packages.