Project: Agent Orange

[AJs72K5]

Originally Posted by Wildstreak

Do ya think using the taller adapter will cause any motor angle problems? I have a 700r4-np208 and dont really like the low adapter either but worry that swapping to the tall adapter might screw with the drive-line angles....

No worries. I'm running the tall adapter with a 700/241 on the factory crossmember. The tall adapter with the factory crossmember and tranny mounts is roughly the same height as the short adapter with the spacer/mount on the crossmember VT had pictured previously. My front driveshaft is actually 2" longer than my rear. I'm running CVs front and rear now.

Bottom line, what the tall adapter gives you is the use of your factory crossmember(s) and tranny mounts.

[Wildstreak]

Thanks AJ
whats a good price to pay for one of these tall thin adapters? I found one but I just wanna make sure Im not goin to pay too much for it. I like this adapter more, it gives way more ground clearance I would think compared to the other crossmember style.

[vtblazer]

I just picked up the one in the pic for $65.00 shipped, thanks to AJ's heads up and provided link.

[AJs72K5]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

I just picked up the one in the pic for $65.00 shipped, thanks to AJ's heads up and provided link.

Nice score, fo sho. I managed to get mine cheaper...but, I've seen them listed on ebay for as high as $150.

[Wildstreak]

$65 wow thats a damn good deal, 150 seems to be the usual price Ive found on a few sites....

[vtblazer]

Clocking ring ordered from DIY.



Currently also working on cage mock up.

[Wildstreak]

well this may be a dumb question, but what is that for?

[Chevyman63]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

Currently also working on cage mock up.

Looking forward to pics.

[AJs72K5]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

Clocking ring ordered from DIY.

Mine showed up yesterday.

Originally Posted by Wildstreak

well this may be a dumb question, but what is that for?

It's called a clocking ring. It's for either a 241 or a 208 transfer case. It allows you to rotate (clock) the transfer case up to give you more ground clearance.

Not a great pic, cuz of the exhaust pipe in the way. But, here's the before:


And the after with the clocking ring installed, rotated up to the first hole, You can see the case is completely above the exhaust pipe now...but more importantly, the bottom of the case is just above the bottom of the crossmember now.

[Wildstreak]

well that there solves a question that has been in the back of my head for a week now lol. I really didnt like how my 208 was so much lower and wanted to do this from the start. Now that Im taking it apart for that tall adapter I should look into one of the kits as well. Are they easy to install?

[AJs72K5]

Originally Posted by Wildstreak

well that there solves a question that has been in the back of my head for a week now lol. I really didnt like how my 208 was so much lower and wanted to do this from the start. Now that Im taking it apart for that tall adapter I should look into one of the kits as well. Are they easy to install?

The first time I did mine, it took me an hour to remove the case, install the ring, and rehang the case.

When put it on, make sure you use RTV on both the case and the adapter side. Additionally, use RTV on the threads of the studs and the holes that you don't use on the ring to ensure you don't get any leaks.

[Wildstreak]

Im going to have an 8" lift most likely, do you think there would be driveshaft angle problems if I use the clocking ring to raise my transfer? what are you using for lift vt and aj?

[vtblazer]

Received both my tall adaptor & clocking ring on Wednesday, perfect timing heading into a long weekend.

Pics clearly show that the motor 'is' in the stock location and it was just the tall valve covers making thing's look tight.

Now I need to decide whether to move the engine forward or just re-drill new holes in the frame for the tranny cross member.

I think the next 'diagnostic' step is to trial fit the dizzy, if that goes in easily and has enough clearance with the cap on it, I'll leave the engine where it currently sits, if not the whole assembly will get moved forward.

Happy turkey day folks, enjoy!

[Big J]

Lookin' good Kurt. Unless you adjusted the firewall behind the dizzy with a hammer we know its gonna be tight. I guess its a question of paper tight or credit card tight, lol. I adjusted mine before painting, lol. Its got wonderful clearance and because of the filler and sanding you'd never know it. Be careful, have fun and don't smash any fingers.

[vtblazer]

More room than expected...seen worse.
Valve covers are decent to get off too.

The tightest area is definetly the pass. side valve cover.

Thing's might settle a bit when I actually weight the cross member mounts and that would make the dizzy even closer, maybe the safest thing to do is just move the engine up.

[Big J]

It may be better to just move it up like ya said. Don't know for sure but maybe it could touch when you get it all twisted up. That is nice clearance on the dizzy.

[AJs72K5]

If you leave the engine in the stock location, the tranny crossmember would have to be moved ~2.5". Why not move the engine forward 1", which would give you plenty of clearance, and then move the tranny crossmember back the difference?

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by AJs72K5

If you leave the engine in the stock location, the tranny crossmember would have to be moved ~2.5". Why not move the engine forward 1", which would give you plenty of clearance, and then move the tranny crossmember back the difference?

...cause I only wanna have to drill 4 holes, not 8.

Kidding, thanks though, it's certainly an option and a good one too.

[Jtrux]

Yeah with my HEI you could fit a credit card between the cap and firewall, it was tight.

[vtblazer]

Everything moved forward 2.5"s.

Not the perfect solution but now I know what it makes for room.

T-case lever hits the floor x-member support, need to pull the t-case back out and find out if I can index it, if not maybe shortening it is the answer.

*Note in these pics that the transmission cross member is in the stock location, everthing has been moved 2.5"s forward as the 700r mandates.

Somewhere in between should work good, hoping to align it so the drive shafts end up being the same length.

[vtblazer]

Looks like only moving it forward 1" does the trick.

Makes a ton of room around the engine/dizzy/valve covers.

Still leaves 5.5"s between the water pump & the fans.

Allows me to leave it clocked up in the #2 position, although a wee bit of clearancing on the floor needs to happen.
Even clocked up the most it will go, the 241 still hangs 2.5" below the frame rail though.

This position also allows for both drive shafts to be almost equal, meaning I'll need only three.
Two to run & the third as the spare which will then fit either end.

The shift lever will need to get shorter too.

[Big J]

Glad you've got it worked out. Can't wait to get back to work on mine.

[swyfor5]

Kurt, those are some awesome pic's! Looking good!

[Thealien]

Thanks for the pics, you've been busy!

Looking forward to some similar "fun"

[litebulblsc]

Found this on page 3, any updates?