Heater core died.

[KQQL IT]

Flushed the cooling system. And... the heater core gave up the next day.

Searching thru threads not finding one with many pics for an A/C truck.
Looks like a real pita
Not to mention the 2nd heater core in as many weeks.

Links would be appreciated.

Ordered this for a replacement.

APDI 9010121

Not really concerned if its aluminum or brass.
Pics show it either way.

[projectking]

Split open or just plugged? If plugged hit the outlet with the garden hose and push the slop out

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by projectking

Split open or just plugged? If plugged hit the outlet with the garden hose and push the slop out

It split.
Never really worked to well until the flush then worked better than ever til it split the bed. Ha-

[kazoocruiser]

Originally Posted by projectking

Split open or just plugged? If plugged hit the outlet with the garden hose and push the slop out

Since the core is split, that is a drag. Cost me $300.00 for someone to do the R&R job for me. I was happy to fund someone else's labor for that chore.

And if you DO have to R&R it, the inner fender well pretty much has to be dropped out of the way. Don't forget to wear really good eye-protection.

[pwdcougar]

Even on a non AC truck it is a pain. Last time I did the job the inner fender and the hood hinge had to come off. I’ve never understood why a part lik this is made to be so difficult to replace. On my 05 Impala it was. $1300 job. I told people the was they build cars is to set the heater core in a jig and then construct the vehicle around it!

Paul

[KQQL IT]

My 98 was super easy comparatively to this.
About 10 screws 2 heater hoses. The oem spring clamps where the worst part of it.
Sounds like a fun job. ��

[toolboxchev]

Inner fenderwell, Black heater box, and repeat.

Take the tire off first of course. Easiest way I ever found.

[Stocker]

Not much help, I know.... more than 20 years ago, pre-forum, I replaced the heater core in my A/C K20. It was quite quite a pita as I recall, but I did it and hope I never need to do it again. I'm just a general maintenance with basic hand tools in the carport guy, so it can be done by just about anyone with determination. But it's no fun.

FWIW, I have heard of problems with aluminum heater cores, and brass is preferred. No specific info though, just a memory of something I saw somewhere.

[FirstOwner69]

Try this link. It should help. Ignore post 3.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223703

[KQQL IT]

Thanks. That's more what I was looking for. Also now recalling this truck had the A/C added with all the factory stuff.
Really beginning to dread this particular project.

[special-K]

I replaced a heater core and not long after I was doing something else under the hood and put pressure on a heater hose causing the poor solder joint in the new core to leak. Had to go through everything all over again to fix it. It was a Modine brass many years ago.

[davepl]

Just FYI, all the replacements I found were GARBAGE compared to how heavy duty and strong the original Harrison unit I found in there was. I have a feeling I'm going to regret not just getting the original rebuilt! But I hung onto the core...

[cypressbog]

The one on my truck sprung a leak so I bypassed the heater because removing 50 year old rusted bolts didn't sound like a chore worth trying.

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by cypressbog

The one on my truck sprung a leak so I bypassed the heater because removing 50 year old rusted bolts didn't sound like a chore worth trying.

Already did that.
Sad part is it didnt really work til I flushed the system. Then it worked pretty decent til the water works started. Almost 4 hours, stupid old trucks. Ha-

[projectking]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

It split.
Never really worked to well until the flush then worked better than ever til it split the bed. Ha-

Bummer! Better off finding a good original as the aftermarket aren’t very good.

[Whamp48]

Advance auto parts sells a good brass heater core, same size as original. Costs around $35.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by Whamp48

Advance auto parts sells a good brass heater core, same size as original. Costs around $35.

Do you know if they stock the Deluxe heater core?

[Already Gone]

I'm going to have my heater core rebuilt. Its not that I'm having any problems with it but my original radiator seeps a bit and I'm going to get it rebuilt. I am figuring once the rad is done the weak link in the system will be the original core so I've actually decided i'm going to get the heater core done first as it'll be the tough one to R & R as my truck has Factory A/C.

[special-K]

Usually with radiators and heater cores it's age that gets them. So, good thinking on that move.

[Boog]

My first old truck had a persistent radiator leak. I tried numerous times to solder it myself but I never could master the art of soldering. Anyway I thought a good cooling system flush might be good for the old truck. It was a '56 by the way. I didn't skimp on the flush. I bought a Dupont flush as it was the best on the shelf at the time. It's a 2 part deal. I followed directions and it cleaned it up real nice. Inside the rad tank it looked like new. Feeling good about it I refilled the system with new a/f and thought, job done. Thumbs up!
The next day the water pump went out. It was super clean inside but the flush had finished off the shaft seal in the pump. It just sped up the demise of the pump is all. One thing leads to another..

[garyd1961]

I replaced mine with a copper and brass one I found on line. I forget where I got it but it fit right and has worked great. There seems to be two different size cores, the wire hold downs won't fit if you get the wrong size.
Be careful not to break or lose the little clip on the cable that works the door. I found that plumbers putty makes the perfect sealer for the heater box.