Horn question

[03BlkZ]

So I just finished reading wiring my 70 c10 using the Anerican Autowire Class Update kit. The kit was great and so far have had minimal issues. However, my horn does not work. The horn I installed have two posts on them. The schematic doesn't show a ground and was wondering if I need to ground the other post for them to work. Here is a pic if the schematic not showing ground. The truck is 30 minutes away at my parents or I would just go out wit some test leads and check it.

[Davidf]

The horns do not have a separate ground and are grounded through the bracket to the truck core support. The horns only have one positive terminal. But your horn wire may have a jumper wire for a second horn (high and low note). The dashed wire in the diagram you posted is the jumper for a second horn. If you have only one horn, you can use either of two connectors

[dmjlambert]

Let's see pictures of the horns. I have horns from a later model Chevrolet and they have a plastic body and 2 terminals. One of the terminals on each horn is connected to ground.

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Let's see pictures of the horns. I have horns from a later model Chevrolet and they have a plastic body and 2 terminals. One of the terminals on each horn is connected to ground.

They are horns from LMC and are plastic with two terminals.

[dmjlambert]

I suggest ground one of the terminals and tap the horn briefly and see what you get. I think one terminal is for ground and one is for 12V+.

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

I suggest ground one of the terminals and tap the horn briefly and see what you get. I think one terminal is for ground and one is for 12V+.

Thanks. I will give it a try. Unfortunately I won't be able to work on it again until Friday but I will update this thread after I try.

[Ol Blue K20]

I think it's a ground connection.

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

I think it's a ground connection.

I think you are correct. I assume the original horn grounded thru the body of the horn since it was metal and bolted to the frame. These are plastic so they need the other terminal for a ground. Hopefully that all it is because I do not want to have to tare back I to the pain in the ass column wire harness.

[RustyPile]

The easiest way to test your horn circuit involves a test light.. Before you "tare" into the column, disconnect the plug at the horn.. Ground the test light and insert the probe into the harness plug.. Push the horn button.. If the test light lights up, your horn circuit is working.. Ground one of the terminals on the horn and connect the harness.. Your horn should now blow when the horn button is depressed....

Diagnosing electrical problems is a step by step process.. NEVER assume any component is bad.. Test first, never just arbitrarily condemn or disassemble anything.. If the test light doesn't light up, Don't go immediately into the column.. Work back through the wiring, starting at the horn relay.. Check the horn fuse.. Check to be sure the relay has voltage going to it and is working.. The horn button and column wiring provides a ground path for the relay.. Does the relay "click" when you depress the horn button??

[SwitchbladeII]

[QUOTE=dmjlambert;8906775]I suggest ground one of the terminals and tap the horn briefly and see whl

I agree I have a set of similar horns one terminal positive one negative. Test at battery before installing.

[03BlkZ]

I fixed my horn. It was an issue with corrosion on the plunger on the blinker switch. Pulled the steering wheel and cleaned it and all is good now. Thanks!