tilt column rebuild

[kehstr]

The tilt column in my truck currently does not have the rubber grommet that goes around the column and goes against the gauge cluster and I am looking at tearing it apart to add that. I have done some research and am a little confused on what specialty tools I need, I know for sure that I need something to pull the pivot pins, and this thread, http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=565934, shows how to make one on a budget. Other than that I am not sure what specialty tools I have to have.
Also if any of you have step by step instructions of how to tear into the column, that would help me also. Thanks for any help in advance!!

[kehstr]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=230838
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=90155
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=329008
these are other threads I have found that might help for reference

[randy500]

I outlined how to do it in general steps in this thread...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...30#post7892630

The center bearing nut is not very tight and can be removed with a snap on socket, other brands may not fit. I wrote it all in that thread.

I didn't get into specifics but if you follow the numbered list it should work for you.
You can remove and install the shift tube without special tools, by tapping it free from the shift collar/bowl. Tap on the engine side shift arm, don't beat it so hard you bend it. Spray some penetrating oil down the shift bowl where the shift tube mounts to make it a bit easier.
Everything on the column is pretty difficult to work with especially if you don't have it secured in a vise. If you have a nicely painted column is makes it even more difficult to keep it that way.
There are many ways to forget to install something and when you discover you missed something it is a lot of work to tear back down to fix what you missed. I did 2 columns last week, I have done dozens of them, I forgot to install the grommets on the column, noticed when I was almost done, that added another 2 hours to the job.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...30#post7892630

[randy500]

If I were just missing a grommet I would buy a new one, cut it for installation, use a zip tie to close it up best I could and call it good.

[leddzepp]

If you don't want to tear the column down, just slice the grommet with a sharp razor and slip it over. When installed you won't even see it.

[Tdrcreyn4]

subbed

[kehstr]

The problem I have with cutting the piece and gluing it back on is that it does not last that long. Here is a picture of the one on my dad's truck, he has to reglue it about 2 years for it to stay together, and as you can see it is about due for a gluing.

So I think the best option for me would be to take the column apart and add the grommet. I also forgot to add that I want to do this with the column in the truck, does that change the instructions that you gave me before?

[kehstr]

Bump

[randy500]

Originally Posted by kehstr

The problem I have with cutting the piece and gluing it back on is that it does not last that long. Here is a picture of the one on my dad's truck, he has to reglue it about 2 years for it to stay together, and as you can see it is about due for a gluing.
Attachment 1637360
So I think the best option for me would be to take the column apart and add the grommet. I also forgot to add that I want to do this with the column in the truck, does that change the instructions that you gave me before?

You need to take the column out unless you have the shift tube remover and installer tools, even then you need to remove the intermediate shaft to the steering gear box.

If you have the column out you can tap out the shift tube by tapping on the shift arm at the lower end and don't really need the shift tube tools, although they do make the job stress free.

For the amount of frustration and work it would be easier to not look under the dash at the splt grommet. Now since you have 2 columns to install the grommets, maybe you should buy the tools and cost average it to the 2 repairs.

[kehstr]

So are you saying I should buy the tools to remove and install the shift tube so I can do both of them in the truck?

[randy500]

Originally Posted by kehstr

So are you saying I should buy the tools to remove and install the shift tube so I can do both of them in the truck?

Yes, the tools allow you to work on the column from steering wheel end. you still have to remove the center steering shaft from the intermediate shaft under the hood. The you have to get it back through the bearing under the hood.

If you change the lower grommet you will have to drop the column down and remove the neutral safety switch to get it on. The upper one will slide right on.

You will have to unhook the turn signal wiring and get it dangling below the column to do the job.

Did I mention you also need the upper cover puller? You can tap it off with a hammer and punch where it seats but will do some paint damage and is probably almost impossible to do while the column is installed unless you get lucky and its not very tight.

In summary if you have all 3 tools you can do it with the column installed.
But to remove the column you would only have to do the following additional steps

Unhook linkage
Remove clamp(1 bolt and nut) and support (2 bolts) at firewall on engine side
Remove firewall seal retainer screws
Remove column clamp at dash under column.

You already had to
Remove intermediate shaft
Remove plate under column to get at turn signal wiring
Possibly remove column clamp at dash to get lower seal on column.

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by randy500

Yes, the tools allow you to work on the column from steering wheel end. you still have to remove the center steering shaft from the intermediate shaft under the hood. The you have to get it back through the bearing under the hood.

If you change the lower grommet you will have to drop the column down and remove the neutral safety switch to get it on. The upper one will slide right on.

You will have to unhook the turn signal wiring and get it dangling below the column to do the job.

Did I mention you also need the upper cover puller? You can tap it off with a hammer and punch where it seats but will do some paint damage and is probably almost impossible to do while the column is installed unless you get lucky and its not very tight.

In summary if you have all 3 tools you can do it with the column installed.
But to remove the column you would only have to do the following additional steps

Unhook linkage
Remove clamp(1 bolt and nut) and support (2 bolts) at firewall on engine side
Remove firewall seal retainer screws
Remove column clamp at dash under column.

You already had to
Remove intermediate shaft
Remove plate under column to get at turn signal wiring
Possibly remove column clamp at dash to get lower seal on column.

would I need any of those 3 tools if I worked on the column out of the truck?

[randy500]

Originally Posted by kehstr

would I need any of those 3 tools if I worked on the column out of the truck?

Generally yes it can be done on the bench without the special tools. The turn signal switch cover can be troublesome to get off without damage. If your column has really nice paint it will get damaged without using the cover puller.

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by randy500

Generally yes it can be done on the bench without the special tools. The turn signal switch cover can be troublesome to get off without damage. If your column has really nice paint it will get damaged without using the cover puller.

Do you have a part number for this cover puller? And I don't need the other 2 pullers to do the job if the column is out of the truck?

[randy500]

The socket I described is a common tool (snap-on) but I can only attest to that specific one to remove the upper shaft nut, if you don't have it your craftsman or whatever brand may not work, it may not fit the nut and it may not be deep enough.

Its a special 12 point nut that a 12 point common size socket does not fit but the snap-on flank drive socket does fit because those sockets fit tighter in the middle of the flats than an ordinary brand of sockets will.

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by randy500

The socket I described is a common tool (snap-on) but I can only attest to that specific one to remove the upper shaft nut, if you don't have it your craftsman or whatever brand may not work, it may not fit the nut and it may not be deep enough.

Its a special 12 point nut that a 12 point common size socket does not fit but the snap-on flank drive socket does fit because those sockets fit tighter in the middle of the flats than an ordinary brand of sockets will.

Cool, I have some SNAP-ON sockets that should work! What about the cover puller tool? Do know where I can get one, or a part number for one?

[kehstr]

ttt

[BCOWANWHEELS]

I,ve got yp do mine too

[randy500]

Originally Posted by kehstr

Cool, I have some SNAP-ON sockets that should work! What about the cover puller tool? Do know where I can get one, or a part number for one?

The cover puller is
KENT MOORE J-22598

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by kehstr

Cool, I have some SNAP-ON sockets that should work! What about the cover puller tool? Do know where I can get one, or a part number for one?

I have no idea what the Kent Moore tool looks like, but I made this tool from junk I had lying around that works well.

[FirstOwner69]

Here are pictures of the other 2 tools. The pivot pin removal tool from CARQUEST was under $10. The shift tube removal tool in the 2nd picture is Kent Moore J-22551. There are 3 on eBay right now ranging from $80 to $130. I bought mine there 3 or 4 years ago for a lot less. However, I didn't have it when I rebuilt some tilts. I used a 1-1/4" wood dowel to drive the tube out. However, that didn't work very well. I bought the tool because I have a few more tilts to restore.

[randy500]

Pushing this to the top, somebody asked me how to disassemble a tilt column.