Simple frame paint?

[kev2809]

im not looking for show quality by any means. im wondering what the simpliest way to clean up a frame? i sanded some of my suspension down about 10 years ago and used rustoleum hammer paint. this truck has 0 miles and has been sitting outside about 5 years now...and it looks like crap. i never even touched my frame then, but as of now, i just want to degrease and pressure wash the hell out of it and lay something on it.

i dont want to dissemble and wire brush anything if i can get away with it. is there products for this? i was thinking a qt of por 15 brushed on could work, but not sure what cheap quick methods you guys have used. thanks!

[65truckowner]

Tractor implement paint. It comes in a spray can or gallon. I have used it several times It is very sticky and takes some time to dry but I have had really good results.

[mongocanfly]

I would pass on the por15..save that for a bridge
I've got a frame I did about 30yrs ago...spent many many hrs wire brushing it clean..sprayed it with rustoleum and it still looks pretty decent...until a few yrs ago it has always stayed outside...
My IH frame i took and had it sandblasted,..then I sprayed on the epoxy primer for the best protection.., then used rustoleum on it as well..I didnt want to use a high dollar paint...I wanted something that would be easy to touch up with a rattlecan if needed... I knew I would be doing a fair amount of work on the frame so Itried to keep It simple..

I have never used or seen it in person, and dont know anything about it, but I see chassis saver mentioned frequently ...might do some research into it...it may be no better than poor15 though

[kev2809]

i guess my main problem was this truck sitting outside untouched and not moving. i used tractor paint on the interior and that seemed to dull down (high build 2k primer then paint). i only mentioned por 15 because i figured that stuff grabs to anything lol

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

I would pass on the por15..save that for a bridge
I've got a frame I did about 30yrs ago...spent many many hrs wire brushing it clean..sprayed it with rustoleum and it still looks pretty decent...until a few yrs ago it has always stayed outside...

are you referring to regular spray can rustoleum?

[SCOTI]

I usually powder coat parts/pieces that can be done easily. I've also had an entire chassis powder-coated as well. But even w/the PC, I made sure I used an option that I could touch-up easily w/a rattle can. Rattle can stuff works fine, is easy for touch-ups, & readily available. That makes it about perfect for a budget approach on a 'driver'.

My old 'go-to' was the original Krylon Satin Black. Once the formula changed & it was no longer available on the local parts store/Walmart shelves, I started using the VHT Epoxy stuff. I use/like stuff that flashes off/dries as quick as possible.

I tried Rustoleum but it took way too long to flash-off for painting things in a driveway. It does match my PC'd chassis the best so I use it for spot repairs if I need.

[mongocanfly]

The 1st paint came from a gallon can...for touchup I use rattle cans..
Poor15 wont stick to just anything...from what I've seen it only sticks to rust...will fall off clean metal..
I've got a buddy that loves it ...for some reason...he builds alot of ramrod stuff,and he'll patch up something and spray that stuff on it..and you can take a air hose and blow it off the clean metal..itll grip rust though...
Much better options out there

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

The 1st paint came from a gallon can...for touchup I use rattle cans..
Poor15 wont stick to just anything...from what I've seen it only sticks to rust...will fall off clean metal..
I've got a buddy that loves it ...for some reason...he builds alot of ramrod stuff,and he'll patch up something and spray that stuff on it..and you can take a air hose and blow it off the clean metal..itll grip rust though...
Much better options out there

POR 15 will stick to a properly finished 'clean' metal. I don't know of too many coatings that will adhere to a slick surface.

[mongocanfly]

May be his technique..I know it was patch panels he welded in and he sanded it with 80g...it didnt stick..
It did stick to adjacent rusty metal though...but not his patchs

[04ls1gto]

Rust-oleum professional is good stuff, prep, prime, and 2 coats back to back. If it gets scratched just spray a little touch up and your done

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 04ls1gto

Rust-oleum professional is good stuff, prep, prime, and 2 coats back to back. If it gets scratched just spray a little touch up and your done

Thats what I use to match my PC'd stuff. Takes its time to flash off & dry though.

[kev2809]

are you guys doing this with everything disassembled?

[mongocanfly]

The 1st one I didnt disassemble any of it..the last one I broke it all down except for the springs..

[SCOTI]

Usually the farther its apart, the better the overall results but I've seen complete front to rear done in workable sections (focusing on each section).

Pull the front apart & detail things up to the front cab mounts.
Then we focused on the rear half. Same process to the rear cab mounts.
Then, turned attention to the rails/area between the mounts. Turned out way better than I would have thought.

[SkidmoreGarage]

I'm not an expert, but I have been going through some chassis rust repair myself and I have some relevant recent experience.

I went to my local autobody paint shop to ask about "chassis paint". I like them and they carry great products, but I had to pass when I found out it was about $200 a gallon (only available in gallons). I have since tried Por-15 brush on, Rustoleum 2 in 1 rust reformer and seal, Rustoleum Professional Semi-gloss in the gallon can, and the harbor freight black rust converter paint (not on my truck!).

I didn't like the Por-15 for painting a chassis, and it should be top-coated anyway which makes it even more expensive. I like using it for drivetrain components that are already rusty. I refinished my rear axle in it and it turned out okay, with a lot of brush strokes, but has held up to abuse.

I sprayed the rustoleum professional with my air compressor by diluting it with acetone (up to 10%). It went on really easy and stuck really well. It also self-leveled really well, especially considering it was in the upper 40s/low 50s. It almost came out too glossy. It did take a couple days to harden up, but it seems very durable (surprising, and i gave it a good scratch with the screwdriver). I was very impressed, and it can be touched up super easy. Also, very cheap at Home Depot for $30/can. I plan to use this for the rest of my frame in the next week or so.

I like the Rustoleum 2 in 1 rust reformer and seal for spray and pray jobs to stop as much rust as you can. If you have a really rusty undercarriage that you can't really get to very well, and you have wire-wheeled what you can, you can clean everything with a spray wax and grease remover and then spray this stuff. It coats very well, has almost 4 feet of range, and sticks like crazy. I am sure it isn't permanent, but sometimes good enough will get you a few more years of happiness before you have to do it again.

The HF line of paint is garbage, especially the rust converter paint. Do not bother. I buy a lot of stuff at HF but judge each product on its merits, and this stuff is the kind that gives HF its bad reputation for quality.

If I was able to strip the frame bare, I would get it sandblasted and powder coated, or epoxy plus Raptor/SEM bedliner through an HVLP gun. Maybe someday...

[nsb29]

Rust oleum is a good paint you can make it better by adding enamel hardener and use an enamel reducer of course the best cure for rust is to remove it

[lupo]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

I would pass on the por15..save that for a bridge
I've got a frame I did about 30yrs ago...spent many many hrs wire brushing it clean..sprayed it with rustoleum and it still looks pretty decent...until a few yrs ago it has always stayed outside...
My IH frame i took and had it sandblasted,..then I sprayed on the epoxy primer for the best protection.., then used rustoleum on it as well..I didnt want to use a high dollar paint...I wanted something that would be easy to touch up with a rattlecan if needed... I knew I would be doing a fair amount of work on the frame so Itried to keep It simple..

I have never used or seen it in person, and dont know anything about it, but I see chassis saver mentioned frequently ...might do some research into it...it may be no better than poor15 though

POR15 is not used on Bridges

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lupo

POR15 is not used on Bridges

It's called sarcasm.

[kev2809]

lookin at this rustoleum professional enamel, it looks a lot like the tsc tractor paint enamel i used on my interior.

[kev2809]

i dont know why i cant add images, the manage attachments button is missing....but here are some links. these also come in rattle can.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...oaAk_AEALw_wcB

and this one....

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...UaApr_EALw_wcB

[lupo]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

It's called sarcasm.

I realize it was sarcasm I am sorry if I offended you. I've worked in Industrial Coatings for 30 years and I like to stick to the facts. I've been involved in salt fog testing that whole time and I can tell you from experience the first thing to fail is Rustoleum and Tractor Supply paint.

[lupo]

Mobay chemical developed permanent type bridge primer in the late 70s. Initially por-15 sold it as POR12 metal filler. I sold por-15 in 1988, it was no longer the Moby Bridge primer . The new owner change the resin , the solvent ,and the pigment. That's when I left. You can use a coating on anything whether it works or not another story

[kev2809]

yup...well i used a rustoleum spray paint on my A arms about 10 years ago and they look bad, and ive never even hit the road on this truck. the only problem is i dont even remember if i used primer first.

this truck will not be a show truck at all, i just want to have the frame at least look decent. ive seen tons of trucks on here that have good looking painted frames using basic paint stuff. im starting think it was just my prep that was the problem

[lupo]

I checked out your build thread. That was quite a project you should be proud. Unfortunately there is no quick fix that'll last a long time. Painting a chassis with anything it's going to require three coats minimum to get long-term service. If you're preserving a vehicle you look for the strongest coating systems available. If you want to patch something up to go to the hardware store but be prepared you do it over a few years down the road. Mostly all your paint systems breathe, even epoxy, if it breathes it will rerust eventually.

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by lupo

I checked out your build thread. That was quite a project you should be proud. Unfortunately there is no quick fix that'll last a long time. Painting a chassis with anything it's going to require three coats minimum to get long-term service. If you're preserving a vehicle you look for the strongest coating systems available. If you want to patch something up to go to the hardware store but be prepared you do it over a few years down the road. Mostly all your paint systems breathe, even epoxy, if it breathes it will rerust eventually.

thanks for checkin it out. to be honest i just hate the ugly dirty rusted look when the firewall has paint..it just looks off. i bet even after me degreasing it and hitting it with my pressure washer will probably make a world of difference. but, i want to at least put something on it. was hoping some rattle can would make it look at least presentable when i open the hood.