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Old 03-05-2018, 09:48 PM   #1
KevinR
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1970 c10 lwb

Iíll start with a little backstory. In high school, I was always a Jeep guy, TJ LJ CJ, you name it. Once I got to college and was moving around more, I traded up to a late model Chevy. And that started it.

After moving back to my hometown, and taking on a project in a 150 year old farm house project, I got to the point where I wasnít busy enough. Enter the C10 search. Iíve always had a soft spot for the classics...trucks used to have style and personality.

The search took me from northwest Indiana to central Illinois. I picked up the C10 from Princeville, Illinois this February. Relative to Chicago prices, I got a fair deal for a pretty clean 1970 LWB 250 3 speed on the tree truck. Originally, the truck was a parts runner for the local Deere dealer, then traded hands to the Ford New Holland dealer. From there, it went to the town museum, but alas, was not a show quality piece. The PO purchased it from the museum and started the restoration. He cleaned up the driver rocker and hood and repainted the truck. Also prior to my ownership, the tank was relocated and a single DIN stereo was cut in.

Never drove a column shift before, and the straight six was reminiscent of the Jeep days, so I figured it was a good start to a driver project. Picked it up as a driver, but the steering was looser than Iíd like, and 4 wheel drums left something to be desired. Ok, maybe I was just itching to turn wrenches.

Drums gave way to front disks. If youíre gonna do disks, might as well do power brakes. And if youíve got the spindles off and need to do an alignment anyways, might as well add a power rack and pinion. Rack and pinion, new tilt column (6í 4Ē I could use the room from a tilt) and that meant moving to a floor shift. Alas, my column shift days would be short lived, my knees kept getting in the way.

Sourced the disks and booster from CPP. Flaming river for the column and rack and pinion. Hurst Indy shifter to drop the shifter to the floor.
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Old 03-05-2018, 09:56 PM   #2
KevinR
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Re: 1970 c10 lwb

Started the project with the disk conversion. Got a little nervous about clearing 15 inch wheels (from a late model GMC) but squeaked by.

For vacuum, Iím using what I believe would be the stock port on the intake. No big issues with the process, but the power booster did necessitate a different air cleaner, valve cover breather, and moving a manual choke. Also, the 1/4 brake line for the front brakes was swapped for 3/16. If this doesnít provide enough volume, Iíll run individual lines for each of the disks.

While I was doing the spindles (stock height), I replaced the upper and lower ball joints with Moogs from Summit.
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Last edited by KevinR; 03-05-2018 at 09:58 PM. Reason: Adding photos
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Old 03-05-2018, 10:07 PM   #3
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Re: 1970 c10 lwb

Part of the rack and pinion install was mounting a power steering pump. Flaming River supplied a GM Type 2 with the kit. And they supplied a mounting bracket...for a 350. Looking around, Vintage Air makes a bracket that mounts behind thermostat housing, PN 146036. For the price, I figured it would save some time over fabbing up my own. Now, this bracket set is meant to accommodate a low mount for their AC compressor and a high mount for the alternator.

Using the Vintage Air bracket, the Flaming River bracket, and a little help from Hobart, I had a solution (photo 1). I simply cut off the portion of the Vintage Air bracket for the alternator and welded on the bracket for the 350. One of the mounting holes would end up being used for the tensioner. No laughing, Iím more of a grinder than a welder! This would allow for the alternator to remain in the stock location, with a type 2 pump up top. I used a dual pulley from Summit on the alternator and a 29 inch V belt to get it to work.
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Old 03-05-2018, 10:08 PM   #4
KevinR
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Re: 1970 c10 lwb

Moved the shifter down to the floor. Cleared the stock bench no problem!

That brings up to today. Need to pull the column back out to repaint then hopefully get all the systems bled and back on the road this weekend.

Also, how do I rotate the photos?
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Old 03-11-2018, 09:10 PM   #5
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Re: 1970 c10 lwb

Got a little more work done this weekend. Had a brake line leak at the proportioning valve...bad job flaring. Ended up cutting out and replacing the line for the rear drums. Spent some time getting the steering column back in and adjusted to where it would fit me well. I had the wrong U joint from Flaming River (would fit a stock GM column but not the spline output on the Flaming River column), hoping to get that resolved this week.

The Flaming River cradle is designed for a V8 application, mine is a 250. It looks like I’ve got a sheet of paper clearance between the oil pan and cylinder on the passenger side. Planning to shim up the motor mounts and buy a little wiggle room.

If anyone has tips on putting the aftermarket connector on the column wiring, I’m all ears. I’m having trouble accessing the wires well.
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Old 03-11-2018, 09:58 PM   #6
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Re: 1970 c10 lwb

Sorry I canít help with the colum wiring, but the truck is coming along great! I installed the same kit and those before-and-after shots donít do justice to all the work put into that conversion. Do you have the CPP proportioning valve? Iím having some issues with that, just curious if youíve encountered any while bleeding the system.
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Old 03-12-2018, 05:38 AM   #7
KevinR
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Re: 1970 c10 lwb

I do. My flaring work was bad enough that it would hide any other issues. I’ll update once I get it bled for good. Second times the charm!
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Old 03-20-2018, 08:31 AM   #8
KevinR
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Re: 1970 c10 lwb

The rack and pinion cleared the oil pan with the 250, but barely. I wanted a little more wiggle room. Cut up some quick spacers from 1/2 inch plate and slipped them under the perches for the front motor mounts. Plenty of room now! I did need to readjust my floor shifter to clear the seat again.

Materials: 6 grade 8 1.5 inch bolts, 12 washers, 6 split ring washers, 6 nuts
Scrap 1/2 inch plate

Almost had the truck on the road but hit a few snags.

Coolant leak from the thermostat housing where I put the P/S bracket on. No big deal, ordered some new gaskets (I had just used RTV)

Brake leak at the banjo fittings. I’m not sure if I used the wrong banjo bolt (10 mm vs 7/16) or if they just weren’t long enough. CPP did not ship banjo bolts with the kit. In either case, I’m hoping to have that hammered out this week.
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Old 03-23-2018, 12:09 PM   #9
KevinR
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Re: 1970 c10 lwb

Got the brakes bled. Warning light is on. Ill play with the combination valve tonight or tomorrow and see if I can’t get that sorted. Besides that, it’s time to refill coolant and do a rough alignment and she should be on the road!
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Old 03-23-2018, 11:23 PM   #10
KevinR
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Re: 1970 c10 lwb

And we’re live! Just a couple miles today but it feels good to be back on the road!
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Old 03-26-2018, 12:34 AM   #11
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Re: 1970 c10 lwb

Congratulations bud! Hard work paid off. Feels pretty good I bet....
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Old 03-26-2018, 12:15 PM   #12
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Re: 1970 c10 lwb

Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinR View Post
And weíre live! Just a couple miles today but it feels good to be back on the road!
She's alive!! congrats! You get the brake light worked out?
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Old 03-26-2018, 02:59 PM   #13
KevinR
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Re: 1970 c10 lwb

Mostly. Front brake line has a slow leak. Fine around town but I want to get that fixed before I put on any serious mileage. Warning light was on after initial bleeding, but a couple pumps of the brakes seemed to equalize that. Next up, windshield wipers!
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Old 06-02-2018, 12:03 PM   #14
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Re: 1970 c10 lwb

Fixing things here and there and CRUISING!!
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