My 4/6" ECE lowering install thread - 72 Shorty

[bigguy69]

Looking good

[original-71]

Graham when you put the blocks on take that 1/4"block on drivers side and switch it to passanger side that should make you even on both sides thats what i did on mine.

[Ekliptix]

Hector, brilliant. And thanks a ton for giving me those 1/2 blocks this morning. Your truck looks AMAZING. So nice.

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

The hardest part of the whole job is removing the four rivets that hold the stock upper shock mounts in place.

When i did mine i did not have the bedwood in yet. I just drilled the heads off the ribets first then whacked the old brcket with a hammer. Then i heated up the area around the rivet with a torch and drive the rivet out with a punch and hammer.

[original-71]

Originally Posted by Ekliptix

Hector, brilliant. And thanks a ton for giving me those 1/2 blocks this morning. Your truck looks AMAZING. So nice.

your welcome, thank you for the compliment.

[robozride]

Any update? you must be done by now?

[TexasLS1]

Have you been able to finish the drop yet? We're getting anxious here!!

[Ekliptix]

Originally Posted by TexasLS1

Have you been able to finish the drop yet? We're getting anxious here!!

Originally Posted by robozride

Any update? you must be done by now?

I'm waiting for front coils back from Early Classic. The 1.5" coils included in their kit arrived at their shop over 2 weeks ago after I did 3 day shipping. But they only opened the package to read my note late last week after I contacted them asking if they were sending me back the 2" coils they promised....a free exchange for the 0.5" lower coils, but 2 weeks wasted since they didn't attend to my package until I reminded them it was there haha. Oh well, I should get the 2" drop front coils on Wednesday and hopefully put some more hours in getting the front done and the rear aligned.

[Ekliptix]

Question: I'm putting the front brakes back on but I'm having trouble slipping the caliper back on the rotor with the pads. It feels way too tight. Is the correct way to:
1) With the caliper off the rotor, place the inner and outer brake pad in the caliper.
2) keeping the pads in place against the walls of the caliper with my fingers, slip the caliper onto the rotor.

If so, when I try this, there is no space for the caliper & pads to slip on to the rotor. In the photo, I got it started then lightly tapped the caliper with a hammer but this seems wrong and I don't want to ruin the pads. You can see in the photo the pads have a pronounced ridge running down their face. This fits in to a matching groove in the rotor. Already (removing or trying to place) these ridges on the pads are less then perfect. Not sure how critical this is. Rotors are not expensive but if it's no biggie, great.

Input?

Also, I'm installing a new poly transmission mount. What is the factor torque spec when I'm tightening it up?

[Lee H]

Doesn't look like the piston is all the way in, the inside pad backing should be up against the caliper like the outside one. Looks like the inside pad is pretty mangled up.

[Ekliptix]

How do I move the piston in to add clearance? Yea, I'll go get some new pads.
Also, I bought new bearings planning to install them but discovered neither the inner bearing or the outer bearing seat fall out of the rotor easily. I suspect I'd need to bring the rotors somewhere that has a press?

[WIDESIDE72]

A purpose built spreader is a available at most parts stores but i just use a big C clamp. Put the pad in up against the piston before compressing.

[WIDESIDE72]

I use a brass drift punch to remove the races. Are you sure the bearings need replacing? You can clean them in solvent and check for pitting wear discoloration or anything out of the ordinary. If they pass just repack them. For years i packed them by hand but recently bought a cone shaped bearing packer that speeds the process dramatically.

[WIDESIDE72]

http://www.etrailer.com/Tools/LubriM...FUVo7AodpDEAOA

Or

http://www.toolsource.com/wheel-bear...rceid=googleps

[Ekliptix]

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

A purpose built spreader is a available at most parts stores but i just use a big C clamp. Put the pad in up against the piston before compressing.

I'm presuming the piston will extend back once I remove the c clamp or spreader, right? If so, how do I get the pads + caliper all the way in position on the roter with the spreader/c clamp in the way?

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

I use a brass drift punch to remove the races. Are you sure the bearings need replacing? You can clean them in solvent and check for pitting wear discoloration or anything out of the ordinary. If they pass just repack them. For years i packed them by hand but recently bought a cone shaped bearing packer that speeds the process dramatically.

The ECE directions strongly recommended replacing the bearings and packing the new ones with high temp grease. Since I can't remove the existing bearings easily, I'm just reusing them. I think they're fine anyway. Rotor rotates freely. No wiggle.

[steelhorse]

The piston will stay in till you pump the brake pedal. Make sure you pump up the brakes before you try to drive it or you will have no brakes.

[67ChevyRedneck]

First thing I would do is have your rotors resurfaced. Based on the looks of that back pad, there's probably a big groove that will ruin the new pads as well.

If the rotors can not be resurface you will need to buy new ones.

To compress the caliper, open the bleeder valve and push in. You should be able to do it by had using the old brake shoe once the valve is open.

[Tx Firefighter]

That stripe in the brake pad is from the factory groove in 71-72 rotors. They are not smooth like 73-87 rotors (and aftermarket replacements) are. That's one way you can spot a 71-2 with original rotors.

[Classic Heartbeat]

It kind of looks like to me that the raised line in his pad is created by the stock groove in his rotor. If his rotor were gouged bad enough to make a mark like that, it would be too bad to turn. The pads look good otherwise. I would put it back together as is, just depress the caliper so it will go back onto the rotor. I wouldn't even change the pads. They have lots of life left in them. WES

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

That stripe in the brake pad is from the factory groove in 71-72 rotors. They are not smooth like 73-87 rotors (and aftermarket replacements) are. That's one way you can spot a 71-2 with original rotors.

X2

Fyi a lot of this is covered elsewhere on the board and internet in general under "how to change front disc brake pads".

[67ChevyRedneck]

Never knew that! That means the suspension I took off a 71 for my 67 had had the rotors replaced at least once then.

[Ekliptix]

Originally Posted by steelhorse

The piston will stay in till you pump the brake pedal. Make sure you pump up the brakes before you try to drive it or you will have no brakes.

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

To compress the caliper, open the bleeder valve and push in. You should be able to do it by had using the old brake shoe once the valve is open.

These suggestions sound conflicting but I'll first try moving the piston without bleading the valve and hoping the piston stays depressed after I remove the spreader (on order 2 day Amazon).

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

That stripe in the brake pad is from the factory groove in 71-72 rotors. They are not smooth like 73-87 rotors (and aftermarket replacements) are. That's one way you can spot a 71-2 with original rotors.

This sounds accurate. I'm 100% sure the groove on the rotors is OEM. The ridge on the pads seems to be there to align them with the rotors. I think I busted some of the ridge off on the pads removing them originally, but 99% of the surface area for stopping is the flat part of the pads.

[Lee H]

Don't open the bleeder, just compress slowly, just enough to slip the pads over the rotor. The piston will stay in until you depress the brake pedal.

[Tx Firefighter]

Open the bleeder or don't. It doesn't make much difference in the big picture. There are no special tools required. Most guys use large Channellocks or a C clamp.

Personally, I open the bleeder. Over time, the dirty muck in the system migrates to the lowest point, which is the calipers. I like to open the bleeder so it flushes the dirty fluid out and new fluid replaces it. There are also good arguments to definitely open the bleeders on later model vehicles. If you don't, the contaminated fluid can get pushed back up into the uber expensive ABS controller. Not good...

[Ekliptix]

Good input. I will likely go back in and do that now that I'm comfortable with taking apart the front suspension.

Aaaaaand, the front is done! So much easier then the rear. Got a $5 caliper spreader on the way home. Didn't need to bleed the brakes. I'll write up the front suspension process details later. All that's left is the install some 1/2 drop blocks on the rear and center the rear with the adjustable rear panhard bar.

I'm super happy with the front height. Slight tire tuck. It'll likely get a bit lower after settling. I don't mind the slight rake, but the 1/2" rear blocks will make it perfect for me.