68 Anniversary Gold LWB C-20 to SWB C-10

[ReverenSmalls]

Great looking build/start! I need to buff out my patina swb and see how much of a difference it makes, cause yours is crazy good!

[mcbassin]

Nice work with the buffer! Looks like a different truck.

[Graham57a]

I didn't know you had a thread going on this thing. That paint looks sweet! I bet you're fired up to get it to the house and start working on her. Can't wait to see the progress

[Grip]

Originally Posted by Graham57a

I didn't know you had a thread going on this thing. That paint looks sweet! I bet you're fired up to get it to the house and start working on her. Can't wait to see the progress

Hey Andrew. I towed it home a couple of weeks ago. For now, the plan is to just get it driveable. My Dad has a 72 1/2 ton frame with all of the suspension for the conversion but that will have to come later.

[Grip]

Finally received my window rubber. Got my 20 year old daughter to help out. Actually went in pretty easy. I used clothes line rope and wrapped it two times instead of just one. The only problem I had was trying to find the little trim connector that goes in the middle, at the bottom. Tore my garage apart looking for it. Finally gave up and installed the glass without it. I'll install it when I find it.

[Grip]

Pulled the cowl off and vacuumed out all of the broken glass, leaves, acorns. It looks pretty good.

[Grip]

I picked up a replacement carb this weekend. I pulled the coil wire, dropped it on, and cranked the motor over until I got clean fuel all the way to the inlet. I attached the fuel line and as I cranked together fuel in the float bowl, I noticed that the oil pressure gauge was at mid-gauge. I still had the left valve cover off and already had oil to all of the rockers. I buttoned it up and put the plugs back in. I re-attached the coil wire and attempted to fire it. No dice. I pulled the cap and points, cleaned the points, and re-installed them. The points and condenser were the piggy backed style and a complete pain to adjust. If I twisted the rotor, the advance mechanism allowed me to manually open and close the points. Once I got them close enough, I turned the key on and twisted the rotor again. I could hear the coil snapping inside the cap. I reinstalled the cap and tried again. She fired up and purred like a kitten. This is the first time she has been started since 1996. I'm pretty stoked! After topping off the radiator and checking the ATF, I pulled it out of park and into reverse with the parking brake on. I could feel reverse engage right away. I pulled it down into drive and again, it responded right away. I guess I need to get after the brakes so I take it for a test drive!

[Grip]

Nothing to post pictures of but I rebuilt the brake master cylinder and now have brakes. I still can't get over how well it runs. I hit the key and within a revolution, the thing fires up and idles perfect. I checked all of the lights and the left brake light wasn't working. I pulled the lens and the bulb was missing. New bulb installed and all of the lights except for one low beam work. She is pretty much ready for her maiden voyage. I would really like to drive it back to the field I found it in and show the old owner that it is back on the road.

[Grip]

Well, still nothin to take pictures of... I did have my first unforeseen issue. I was flushing the radiator and noticed that the water coming out of the block after the thermostat opened was still NASTY after about 6 flushes. I plulled the radiator hoses (flex hoses that needed to be replaces anyways) and the upper hose was almost completely closed off with rust. I pulled the thermostat housing (also plugged with rust) and cleaned it with a 6 hour muratic acid bath. It came out like new. I replaced the lower hose and filled the block thru the intake. Before I installed the thermostat, I noticed that the lower inlet on the radiator is cracked at the solder joint. To make matters worse, the left tank has two cracks in it below the inlet. I'm going to have to pull it and have it repaired or replaced. I have access to a 72 C-20 parts truck that (I think) has a 4- row radiator. Grrrrr!

[Grip]

On a more positive note, I did get the under bed spare tire carrier and overloads removed last weekend. Today, I broke the rear u-bolts loose to remove the 3/4 ton rear end. I'm not actually remove it any time soon, but I knew that they would be a bear to remove because of 46 years of rust, etc.

[Xeen]

I don't know how much you paid for that truck but how ever much it was it was a steal because she is a beauty.

[Grip]

I'm looking for some advice. I have a 72 C-10 SWB rolling chassis. I was planning on shortening the original frame and bed, and swapping the 1/2 ton suspension from the 72. My reason for thesis because of California and their insane DMV. If I do a frame swap, I will have to get a new vin assigned, get a light and brake inspection, and who knows what else. If I shorten the frame, the vin doesn't change and I don't have to involve DMV. Question is...is it worth going thru the shortening process? Can it be done without removing the cab? I've read several threads on it and it seems that the cab ends up coming off.

Thanks in advance for any input.

[Grip]

Originally Posted by Xeen

I don't know how much you paid for that truck but how ever much it was it was a steal because she is a beauty.

Thanks man. If I told you, you wouldn't believe me.
Let me just say it was a deal I couldn't pass up. Thank for the comment. I agree!

[Xeen]

Shortening the frame is easy enough as long as you can measure and cut accurately. There is a guide here on the board that will tell you exactly how to do it right right way.

Shortening the bed is the subject of much debate but anyone who has ever done it will tell you "it's an ok mod" meaning the bedsides turn out to be a nightmare and each of them will tell you if they had to do it all over again they would buy reproduction bedsides.

The reasons are numerous but the biggest factor is the time involved to make it right and if you aren't an expert metal worker you are in for a rough ride there are serious issues with the body lines because they don't line up once the bed is shortened and there are compound curves involved which combined with the mismatched body lines are a nightmare.

If you decide to buy reproduction bedsides pay close attention to the weight of the bedsides you buy because there are two different quality parts available "collision quality" and "OE quality" the difference is the OE quality bedsides use the original thickness metal and the collision ones don't and they are flimsy and dent easily.
For example the bedsides from Classic Industries the 1967 only bedsides weigh roughly 20 pounds apiece more than the 1968-72 bedsides.

I purchased the 1967 bedsides for my truck and I am very, very happy I did.
I know it's $1000 you didn't want to spend but trust me when I tell you it is worth every dime and then some.

Good luck with your restomod and happy building.

[Grip]

Replaced the lower radiator hose and filled the rad with clean water. I guess I found the reason there was no water in it when I brought it home. Cracked solder joint around inlet and outlet. Crack in the left tank. Time for some rad repair. I'm going to soak fill the radiator with vinegar and let it sit a few days to remove all of the nasty run post then solder up the cracks. Wish me luck!

[Grip]

Radiator inlet.

[Bennett68C10]

Nice looking truck, wish I could have found something that clean and rust free

[Grip]

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10

Nice looking truck, wish I could have found something that clean and rust free

Like!

[Grip]

Small update. I had to work out of town all week until today. I made a trip up to my Dad's wrecking yard and snagged the radiator out of the 72 parts truck. I lucked out, it was a four row that looks like it had been recently replaced. The only difference I see is that the 72 had the heater hose return to the passenger side tank. My truck has one hose to the water pump and the other to the intake. Instead of plugging the fitting in the tank, I might just route my hoses like the 72 and plug the port in the intake. Can anyone clarify how the hoses should be routed? IE: water pump to upper heater core, intake to lower, etc.

Thanks in advance!

[Grip]

Found this diagram. I like the routing better anyways. I can plug the port on the water pump and use the radiator tank instead.

[Xeen]

I don't think you should be plugging the port on the water pump, I think the general rule of thumb is if there is an extra port on the radiator that's the one you plug and use the original hose routing.
I would like to be able to tell you exactly how to hook it up but I'm not an expert on the differences between the small block VS the big block cooling system and how to retrofit one and you would need to talk to someone who is.

[Grip]

Originally Posted by Xeen

I don't think you should be plugging the port on the water pump, I think the general rule of thumb is if there is an extra port on the radiator that's the one you plug and use the original hose routing.
I would like to be able to tell you exactly how to hook it up but I'm not an expert on the differences between the small block VS the big block cooling system and how to retrofit one and you would need to talk to someone who is.

Thanks Brian.
I did a search and found a bunch of threads on this topic (after I posted this). If I plugged the intake, I would have both hoses on the return side. As the diagram above shows, you can run the hose from the tank, or the water pump. The other hose always goes to the intake.

[Grip]

So...I guess that I owe you guys an update. A LOT has changed since I started this thread. After getting the truck running, I decided to put it on the back burner until I could really dedicate the time and money it would take to do it right.

After the truck sat for over a year, I decided to let it go to my brother (Graham57a’s Dad). He transported the truck to North Carolina and added it to his collection. Fast forward to March of 2018, I had an opportunity to relocated and transfer my job to Georgia. Since I now have a proper shop and a pole barn to store the truck put of the weather, I took the truck back.

Last weekend, I drove to NC and brought her home. Amazingly, the battery was still up and I was able to driver her on to a u-haul trailer. She wouldn’t pick up fuel so I had to fill the float bowl thru the vent a couple times to get it loaded but it ran.

Today, I added fresh gas and filled the float bowl 6 times and it still wouldn’t pick up. I changed all three fuel filters and she runs like a champ, again. I’m very happy to have her back and to eventually continue my original plan.
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[Grip]

Sorry about the size of the previous pic. It’s been a while. Can someone remind me of the preferred size?

[Grip]

Tried to use the truck around the property and the starter solenoid gave up on me.


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