Help lowering an '83 C30 Crew Dually

[EricU]

I just bought an ’83 Chevy Crew Cab 2wd dually running a 454 and a 4-spd and am currently waiting for it to be transported back here to CA.

Current plans call for 22” Alcoas and as big of a static drop as possible. Eventually I will be bagging this truck.

I have lowered a lot of cars and trucks both static and bagged. C-notching the rear frame rails is not a problem for me, but I have not ever lowered a dually.

I have a few questions regarding the lowering of this truck.

From what I have read, to tuck 22s, I need to switch to a one-ton SRW rear end. When making this swap what needs to be done with the rear brake setup?

Or does the 8x10 wheel adapters take care of the brake issue?

Where should I get the 8x10 adapters? Are they =/- $1,000?

For a static drop, what are the good companies to deal with for parts? Belltech spindles, flip kit and C-notch?

I have been reading about having 22.5” Alcoas cut for 22s? Are all 22.5” Alcoas the same if buying used? Where do I have the wheels cut? Seems like a pretty simple machine shop operation.

What about the off brand Alcoa copies that I have seen advertised as “Alcoa Style” or some other wording. Are they good quality?

Do these mods require small tubs on the inside of the bed? Just widening of them?

Thanks for any help.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

From what I know as I would love to have big rig rims on a dually. Maybe one day if I decide to build a diesel version.

The SRW rear end or sometimes the chassis cab rear end is what people use. If your going for the bigger rims stepping up to a 11.5 AAM may not be a bad choice. The breaks are not a issue as width is the biggest issue. For the front the srw disk, and adapters seem to be the hot ticket to get them inside easier. Also replace your ball joints while at it. Big rims tear them up pretty good, and you might as well start fresh.

Also they have the bolt on direct rims, and those maybe the Alcoa copies your referencing. If it were my money I would probably go for those to keep complexities down.

[Big Chip]

Nice looking truck! I did a 6/8 drop from Switch Suspension. I didn't go with the C20/C30 kit, I did the C30 specific rear flip and notch with airbag helpers. The front is Belltech 3" spindles and Western Suspension 3" drop springs. I've got stock wheels and 235/85r16 tires with a 31.7" diameter and have plenty of clearance in the rear but need a couple more inches in the front so the inner fenders are removed right now. I feel kind of weird about driving in the rain and dirt roads without inner fenders so I have some Slosh Tubz on order. I have about 300 miles on it since the install and everything seems to be working as advertised. I need to work on the pinion angle a little but it's close.

[SCOTI]

Bell Tech or Western Chassis on the spindles. Not sure what brand Switch Suspension uses but they are one of the newer know sources.

Find someone who does an under bed notch that has more beef to the brackets vs. a Belltech or Western Chassis standard bolt-in c-section.... especially if you keep the leafs & tow. That's a lot of stress on that section of frame for it to only be 2" tall. I did a step notch to keep the rail @ full height but it requires raising the bed floor (or cutting it out for a sheet-metal cover).

Lowboy Motorsports is a well known source for 'big-truck' wheel conversions on Squarebody/OBS duallys…. http://lowboymotorsports.com/

Wheel sourcing, cutting, machining, adapters, & mount/balancing for tires. He ships all over the country if needed. Also has a Squarebody dually kit for optimizing placement of the wheels in the fenders (arms, steering pieces, shock relocation, & joints).

Nice looking purchase!

[Big Chip]

I got the Belltech Spindles and Western Chassis springs from Switch Suspension. The rear notch and airbag brackets with the crossbar are their design as I understand it. It has a flange on the inside instead of just the C welded to the part that bolts to the frame.

[EricU]

Originally Posted by Big Chip

I got the Belltech Spindles and Western Chassis springs from Switch Suspension. The rear notch and airbag brackets with the crossbar are their design as I understand it. It has a flange on the inside instead of just the C welded to the part that bolts to the frame.

Chip, is that last pic one of a different truck than yours? The tires look like they are thinner sidewall and bigger rims.

[cochino12]

Eric, that truck is bad ass, any more pictures?

You can buy flat face wheels so no tubbing or axle swap is required. I bought mine from wheels a million.

[EricU]

Originally Posted by cochino12

Eric, that truck is bad ass, any more pictures?

You can buy flat face wheels so no tubbing or axle swap is required. I bought mine from wheels a million.

Thanks, but I think that is just that photos hide the imperfections. I'll post more when I get the truck home.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Big Chip

I got the Belltech Spindles and Western Chassis springs from Switch Suspension. The rear notch and airbag brackets with the crossbar are their design as I understand it. It has a flange on the inside instead of just the C welded to the part that bolts to the frame.

Unfortunately, although the plate on the inside helps, its not enough to return the frame to its original strength which to me should be everyones goal (as strong or stronger than it originally came).

An engineer (structural engineer specifically) did the math for me on that type of notch (I based it off of my duallys parts). I figured since I used 1/4" material for the notch portion as well as 1/4" boxing plate I would be @ stock strength. Imagine my surprise when his calcs said it was less that 25% of what a factory rail was.

Do people have them installed w/o issue? Sure.
Have they towed w/o issue? Sure.
Have they been selling stuff like that for years? Yep.
Does that make it as safe as stock? Nope.

I want my modified truck safe so I don't risk killing someone in your family.

[EricU]

Originally Posted by cochino12

Eric, that truck is bad ass, any more pictures?

You can buy flat face wheels so no tubbing or axle swap is required. I bought mine from wheels a million.

Adam or anyone else especially with 22s, what size tire (and height if you already know it) are you running?

What ratio side wall? 35 or 40?

[cochino12]

Originally Posted by EricU

Adam or anyone else especially with 22s, what size tire (and height if you already know it) are you running?

What ratio side wall? 35 or 40?

35's, actually rides pretty well. I was worried about such a short sidewall but it's not bad at all.

[Big Chip]

Originally Posted by EricU

Chip, is that last pic one of a different truck than yours? The tires look like they are thinner sidewall and bigger rims.

That is not my truck, it's a picture from Switch's website. I just posted that because I didn't take my bed off and that was the easiest way to show you what I have.

[Big Chip]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Unfortunately, although the plate on the inside helps, its not enough to return the frame to its original strength which to me should be everyones goal (as strong or stronger than it originally came).

An engineer (structural engineer specifically) did the math for me on that type of notch (I based it off of my duallys parts). I figured since I used 1/4" material for the notch portion as well as 1/4" boxing plate I would be @ stock strength. Imagine my surprise when his calcs said it was less that 25% of what a factory rail was.

Do people have them installed w/o issue? Sure.
Have they towed w/o issue? Sure.
Have they been selling stuff like that for years? Yep.
Does that make it as safe as stock? Nope.

I want my modified truck safe so I don't risk killing someone in your family.

You'll get no arguments from me on the strength of the common notch. This looked better to me than most of them I see was my only point I guess. It took me a long time to wrap my head around cutting the frame at all and I really didn't want to do a notch like yours because I didn't want to have that much work into it at this time. That may change in the future but I'm not ready for that step yet.

Also, not to derail the thread but what specs are you guys using for your front end alignments? I had mine done and it isn't right but I made an appointment at the shop I usually use and didn't know if there is some guidance I can give them on it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Big Chip

You'll get no arguments from me on the strength of the common notch. This looked better to me than most of them I see was my only point I guess. It took me a long time to wrap my head around cutting the frame at all and I really didn't want to do a notch like yours because I didn't want to have that much work into it at this time. That may change in the future but I'm not ready for that step yet.

Also, not to derail the thread but what specs are you guys using for your front end alignments? I had mine done and it isn't right but I made an appointment at the shop I usually use and didn't know if there is some guidance I can give them on it.

Mine is not static. I remember it was -.5 Camber, 6.9°/7.4° Caster. Not 100% sure on the Toe but I recall it was 1/16 in each side.
With a stock set-up, you'll want as much Caster as possible for them to dial in w/zero to .5 NEG Camber (stock is POS Camber). Toe is fine @ stock specs.

[Big Chip]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Mine is not static. I remember it was -.5 Camber, 6.9°/7.4° Caster. Not 100% sure on the Toe but I recall it was 1/16 in each side.
With a stock set-up, you'll want as much Caster as possible for them to dial in w/zero to .5 NEG Camber (stock is POS Camber). Toe is fine @ stock specs.

Thank you!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Big Chip

Thank you!

No prob. A good alignment guy should understand you're truck isn't 'stock' & be ok w/you using non-stock specs. If they balk, find one that understands modified vehicles.

[EricU]

Originally Posted by Big Chip

Also, not to derail the thread but what specs are you guys using for your front end alignments? I had mine done and it isn't right but I made an appointment at the shop I usually use and didn't know if there is some guidance I can give them on it.

Chip, you are not derailing the thread at all. Those are questions that I just haven't gotten to yet and it will be good to have a lot of the one-ton info in one thread.

Not everyone can live with a short bed 1/2 ton!!

[catch2otwo]

the go to guy is Todd at lowboy motorsports. Hes in AZ somewhere.

I got a custom cut flat face wheel setup. no rear end change, no tubbing. I also got his 5/7 drop setup. The front parts were drop springs and spindles. The rear is his notch kit. Its all designed to run factory length shocks so its easy to find replacements down the road. The rear is all weld in, I made it very clear when i was doing research that I needed something I could still tow with.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by catch2otwo

the go to guy is Todd at lowboy motorsports. Hes in AZ somewhere.

I got a custom cut flat face wheel setup. no rear end change, no tubbing. I also got his 5/7 drop setup. The front parts were drop springs and spindles. The rear is his notch kit. Its all designed to run factory length shocks so its easy to find replacements down the road. The rear is all weld in, I made it very clear when i was doing research that I needed something I could still tow with.

Todd does an under-floor notch kit & a larger step-notch set-up as well. He's the guy I usually provide the link for. I believe he's still in Mesa AZ.

[EricU]

I got a hold of Todd at Lowboy, just waiting on him to find out about the front spindles - everything is back ordered these days due to the world falling apart.

My current plan is to run his front spindles and coils along with his rear flip kit. I don't need a C-Notch kit as I can cut my own but if it only comes as a kit, oh well.

For the 22s, Instead of using some used ones and getting them milled that I am just going to buy new ones from Extreme Texas Wheels along with the 8x10 adapters

Already located a SRW rear axle.

What size tires are you guys running on the 22s? I am looking at 265/40-22s at a little over 30" tall

[catch2otwo]

Originally Posted by EricU

I got a hold of Todd at Lowboy, just waiting on him to find out about the front spindles - everything is back ordered these days due to the world falling apart.

My current plan is to run his front spindles and coils along with his rear flip kit. I don't need a C-Notch kit as I can cut my own but if it only comes as a kit, oh well.

For the 22s, Instead of using some used ones and getting them milled that I am just going to buy new ones from Extreme Texas Wheels along with the 8x10 adapters

Already located a SRW rear axle.

What size tires are you guys running on the 22s? I am looking at 265/40-22s at a little over 30" tall

why not just get the 22s from Todd? you dont need to run a srw axle. his flat face setup clears the fenders with the stock rear.

I get my truck back in about a week, you are welcome to come take a look.

[EricU]

Originally Posted by catch2otwo

why not just get the 22s from Todd? you dont need to run a srw axle. his flat face setup clears the fenders with the stock rear.

I get my truck back in about a week, you are welcome to come take a look.

At the time I didn't know that Lowboy sold rims as they are not listed on his website. The only way that I have been able to get a hold of him was to call as I never received an email response. I was really surprised that he answered each time which is awesome! I kept flipping back and forth on whether or not that I wanted the stock classic Alcoa hole size or the larger milled out holes. Currently I am leaning towards the stock Alcoa hole size look.

Extreme was also about a grand less on the rims and adapters.

What is your setup? Truck, Suspension, Wheels/Tires etc etc etc
Are you over in the City? Where is your truck now?
I would like to check it out, thanks for the offer

[catch2otwo]

Originally Posted by EricU

At the time I didn't know that Lowboy sold rims as they are not listed on his website. The only way that I have been able to get a hold of him was to call as I never received an email response. I was really surprised that he answered each time which is awesome! I kept flipping back and forth on whether or not that I wanted the stock classic Alcoa hole size or the larger milled out holes. Currently I am leaning towards the stock Alcoa hole size look.

Extreme was also about a grand less on the rims and adapters.

What is your setup? Truck, Suspension, Wheels/Tires etc etc etc
Are you over in the City? Where is your truck now?
I would like to check it out, thanks for the offer

I got my wheels/tires (mounted and balanced), custom cut holes in 22"(cpr style), flat face setup. I also got his rear underbed notch kit,2" drop springs, shocks. I already had drop spindles, and 8-10lug adapters. His underbed notch is weld in as well as the shock mount setup. The way he has it set up, it uses the stock length shocks, so you can go to any auto parts store when its time to replace them.

The truck is at Outkast Kustoms in hayward. Hes finishing up the work this week or next.

Ive seen 22" setups for cheaper but Todd's customer service was awesome. We had a couple hiccups but he was always quick to call me or text me back. I also have seen a lot of other duallys on the gram and his wheel fitment is cherry. He does a lot of duallys.

My final setup will be a static 5/7 drop on the 22s. Im finishing up my cummins rebuild and waiting for the trans to come back from the trans shop. Im just on the other side of the vallejo bridge, in rodeo. Ill shoot you a pm when I get the truck back.