65 Fairlane pro-touring build

[72 tigger]

Fine craftsmanship as usual!

[62c30]

That's good to know. I'm sure my 64 will need some work there too.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by 62c30

That's good to know. I'm sure my 64 will need some work there too.

More photos below for reference. All this surgery has moved the inner wheelwell inboard 2.25" roughly which will allow for a wider profile rear tire. I marked the lines on the stock quarter where I plan to cut it. Trying to use as little of the C2C quarter panels possible. They're extremely flimsy.

I put the C2C quarter panel and corresponding AMD outer wheelwell together to see what future Vic will have to deal with. As I suspected, they don't match perfectly, but they're close enough to make them work. I'm thinking I may stretch the QP opening rather than mess with the AMD piece. It's a shame the C2C panel isn't as nice as the AMD stamping. I reckon beggars can't be choosers.

[62c30]

That sucks about the c2c panels. The trunk drop offs I put on my 64 were perfect fit and probably the same thickness as the stock ones. These odd ball cars can be hard to find parts for unlike the Chevy trucks and mustangs I messed with when I first got into cars. I bought a 66 cyclone last year, if I ever do anything with it it will be another fun to find parts for car.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by 62c30

That sucks about the c2c panels. The trunk drop offs I put on my 64 were perfect fit and probably the same thickness as the stock ones. These odd ball cars can be hard to find parts for unlike the Chevy trucks and mustangs I messed with when I first got into cars. I bought a 66 cyclone last year, if I ever do anything with it it will be another fun to find parts for car.

Amen to that!

A few more progress photos. I spot welded a piece of 3/4" tubing to the quarter panel to help hold its shape when I make my cuts. On the inside, I cleaned out most of the remaining outer wheelwell. I mocked up the new wheelwell to the existing quarter panel and surveyed the situation. I have a couple of things going on that I'll need to address. The 66-67 wheelwell is wider up front than the 65 so the pinch weld seam is inboard quite a bit more than stock. I don't think that will be a big deal since there's not much in that area except for the panel that the rear seat rests against. The real problem as I mentioned previously is that the ends of the new wheelwell are wider than stock. Not only that, they curve to the inside a lot more. I'm going to have to ponder this for a bit - maybe over a cold one.

[Vic1947]

Pie cuts and pie filling!

The rear section is coming along nicely. Front section will be a bit trickier but should work out okay too. Fortunately, this is an area that is never looked at except for show cars which this isn't.

.

[KevinK7]

The attention to detail on this build is crazy. The mismatch of the inner fenderWells, and pie cuts to correct, Wow, very impressed with your skills here

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by KevinK7

The attention to detail on this build is crazy. The mismatch of the inner fenderWells, and pie cuts to correct, Wow, very impressed with your skills here

Thanks very much for the kind words. I'm trying not to go overboard this time, so I'll be more inclined to drive it.

More cutting and metal shaping...

.

[Rickysnickers]

Watching this thread and seeing your work, I'm sure you will get the body line right on. You are 100% about others. If I were to do something like what you are doing, I'd be up a creek trying to find a fix.

[mongocanfly]

That sucks... but wow....that's some thin metal..!!

[jaros44sr]

Victor I was wondering if I could get some advice from you

You mentioned you were going to use panel bond, I've never used it before and was wondering how much set up time you have before the panel bond goes off

Great work so far, and enjoy your write up

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

That sucks... but wow....that's some thin metal..!!

Yeah, if you hold it up to the light, you can almost see thru it.

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Victor I was wondering if I could get some advice from you

You mentioned you were going to use panel bond, I've never used it before and was wondering how much set up time you have before the panel bond goes off

Great work so far, and enjoy your write up

Thanks! 3M makes a couple of versions, 08115 and 08116. I'm guessing there are other adhesive products on the market but those are the only two I've used. Working time differs slightly, although both are ambient temp sensitive. At 70 degrees you have about 1.5-2 hours to reposition panels. If your shop temp is hotter the time goes down. At 100 degrees, you have about an hour at most. The main difference between the two versions is related to manufacturer specifications. For me, that's not an issue so I usually get the 08115. They also have different part numbers depending on the applicator style. An applicator can be pricey, but most paint supply houses will rent you one or let you use it free with a deposit.

You typically only get one mixing tube, but you can buy extras on eBay or elsewhere. I remove a used mixing tube, throw it away and clean the area where it attaches. I then replace the shipping cap when I've only used a partial amount. If you're careful to keep the epoxy and the catalyst from coming in contact with each other, it will last a long time on the shelf. I've been able to use the same dispenser several times until I use all or most of the material.

One other thing about the stuff is that as long as it hasn't set up, you can use a spot welder to add mechanical joints. I don't typically do this but it's nice to know you can if you want.

[jaros44sr]

Victor great info just what I needed, it was the cost of the applicater that threw me off, but I will check with my supplier

Should give me enough time to get it buttoned up

Thanks for your time to explain that

Sorry to hear about that side panel not lining up

This is what I did so far and did you use lacker thinner for cleanup does it come off your hands, does it smell strong

17115430442306797632180518517808 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/97391199@N06

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

This is what I did so far and did you use lacquer thinner for cleanup does it come off your hands, does it smell strong

I use lacquer thinner for cleanup and if you get adhesive on your hands, thinner will work to remove it. I confess that I usually use nitrile gloves when dealing with any kind of pookie. That way, I can use my finger to smooth out a bead and/or remove excess material then peel the gloves off and trash them. The adhesive has a bit of odor but it's not so bad that you need a fan running with the doors open.