C20 lowered pictures

[chevy2tom]

I was rebuilding the front suspension & wanted to eventually bag the truck with drop spindles you still have the same travel with the stock spring, if you run drop springs you lose travel. Plus I have disc already so for you it would cost more to upgrade but worth it.

[bollybib]

@northerngmc

The lower bolts (the ones in the trailing arms) were difficult to extract. They were rusted, the trailing arm hole was jammed with crud, and the bolts are 5 inches long so they don't want to just slide on out for you. I spent a lot of time soaking them with penetrant. I ended up cutting the bolt head off and coaxing them out of the hole with a two arm press until I could get the retainer and spring off. Then I used a nut and spacers on the thread end to slowly jack the bolt out. The uppers came off easy. Hopefully you won't have this problem but it's good to be aware of how hard these bolts can be to get out. I've seen other threads on this subject so it might be good to research some of them beforehand.

I put jack stands under the frame just forward of the rear wheel wells and jacked the truck up until I could drop the rear end far enough to unload the springs and then some. I had the pumpkin set on a floor jack most of the time which helped because I had to jockey the rear axle up and down a lot. I had another pair of jack stands to set the axle on as needed.

The new springs are a bit tricky to get started, there are a lot of parts moving around at first; springs, and two sets of nuts/bolts/retainer. The trailing arm is not parallel with the frame and everything wants to wander away from where you want it. You will probably have to experiment a little to find out what works best for you. Take pics of your original installation before you tear it apart and try to follow the same orientation of the parts when you put it all back together.

I replaced the springs over a period of about a week I guess. Since I've been retired I find I don't push so hard to get things done. I do as much as I'm comfortable with then come back fresh to do more.

It wasn't as easy to do as I thought it might be, but it came out OK and I like the way it looks and it rides a lot better. Good luck with yours.

[Stranny64]

Here is mine before...

[Stranny64]

And after with Paul's 4" rear and 2" front...

[northerngmc]

Originally Posted by bollybib

@northerngmc

The lower bolts (the ones in the trailing arms) were difficult to extract. They were rusted, the trailing arm hole was jammed with crud, and the bolts are 5 inches long so they don't want to just slide on out for you. I spent a lot of time soaking them with penetrant. I ended up cutting the bolt head off and coaxing them out of the hole with a two arm press until I could get the retainer and spring off. Then I used a nut and spacers on the thread end to slowly jack the bolt out. The uppers came off easy. Hopefully you won't have this problem but it's good to be aware of how hard these bolts can be to get out. I've seen other threads on this subject so it might be good to research some of them beforehand.

I put jack stands under the frame just forward of the rear wheel wells and jacked the truck up until I could drop the rear end far enough to unload the springs and then some. I had the pumpkin set on a floor jack most of the time which helped because I had to jockey the rear axle up and down a lot. I had another pair of jack stands to set the axle on as needed.

The new springs are a bit tricky to get started, there are a lot of parts moving around at first; springs, and two sets of nuts/bolts/retainer. The trailing arm is not parallel with the frame and everything wants to wander away from where you want it. You will probably have to experiment a little to find out what works best for you. Take pics of your original installation before you tear it apart and try to follow the same orientation of the parts when you put it all back together.

I replaced the springs over a period of about a week I guess. Since I've been retired I find I don't push so hard to get things done. I do as much as I'm comfortable with then come back fresh to do more.

It wasn't as easy to do as I thought it might be, but it came out OK and I like the way it looks and rides a lot better. Good luck with yours.

Thanks, I really appreciate the feedback.

[northerngmc]

Originally Posted by Stranny64

And after with Paul's 4" rear and 2" front...

Very nice, I appreciate the photos. Great looking truck, is it an original survivor truck?

[Stranny64]

Yes it is. All original truck out of Oregon. Good luck!!!

[1969Chev]

Here is mine. 3 inch lowering springs in front with a coio cut and 5 inch lowering springs in back with 1 1/2 inch blocks

[chevy2tom]

Side shot

[markmdz]

Originally Posted by 1969Chev

Here is mine. 3 inch lowering springs in front with a coio cut and 5 inch lowering springs in back with 1 1/2 inch blocks

How far are you from the bumpstops, or are you riding on them now?

Originally Posted by chevy2tom

Side shot

Nice. How'd you get that low?

[chevy2tom]

Drop spindles in front. & drop springs in the rear

[BigBlockNBK]

Chevy2tom where did you get those wheels and what size are they?

[chevy2tom]

From a fellow board member a few years ago, they are centerline 16 x ? I'm going to look @ new tires today after work @ my local tire shop. I'm looking for something wider for the back & skinnier for the front also shorter profile.

[1969Chev]

[QUOTE=markmdz;6992832]How far are you from the bumpstops, or are you riding on them now?

I cut the bump stops out all the way around. the only thing i need really is a front shock relocation or just shorter shocks. They sometimes bottom out when i go too fast they sometimes bottom out.

[dukkie]

Has anyone done the c20 western chassis drop leaves from summit racing (with pic)

[Smith & Sons]

Originally Posted by Jacfourteen

here are some pictures of mine. I lowered it the cheap way, cut coils in front and pulled 4 leaves in back. This combo got me down 3" in front and 4" in rear. I still can haul with it but anything over a ton in the bed and I'm on the bumpstops (most I've hauled since drop is 3500#'s of gravel). More details here.

BEFORE (Sorry about the crappy pic, it was my cell phone but you get the idea.)


AFTER

Posted via Mobile Device

[Smith & Sons]

How much did you cut the front coils & when did the front bottom out.Just getting ready to do our 69 C20.Thanks for taking the time,Doug
Posted via Mobile Device

[SWB]

My 72 C20

[northerngmc]

Originally Posted by SWB

My 72 C20

Very nice, can you give us some details? How much is it lowered and how? What size of tires are those?

[SWB]

Originally Posted by northerngmc

Very nice, can you give us some details? How much is it lowered and how? What size of tires are those?

Mine is lowered about 4-5" with springs and tire size is P265/50R20. Rides nice with no tire rub, but has a rattle up front from time to time do to the firm spring in the pocket. Steve

[northerngmc]

Originally Posted by SWB

Mine is lowered about 4-5" with springs and tire size is P265/50R20. Rides nice with no tire rub, but has a rattle up front from time to time do to the firm spring in the pocket. Steve

Coils or leafs in the rear?

[SWB]

Originally Posted by northerngmc

Coils or leafs in the rear?

Coils.....
Posted via Mobile Device

[northerngmc]

So for those of you with a 2"/4" drop, did you change the panhard bar?

Does anyone make a C20 adjustable panhard bar?

I am giving up on getting C20 springs sent to Canada so I am going with C10 drop springs and shocks. But what about the panhard bar?

[chevy2tom]

Try a Porterbuilt panhard bar

[Billyburban]

Originally Posted by chevy2tom

Mine's static dropped now(2 1/2 drop spindles front & 4" drop springs out back) & going to bag it soon!

So all you have is drop spindles in the front stock coil an shock ?