Restoring Rusty

[Oberon67]

Well at least you got pizza.

[69heavychevy]

Say it ain't so Gregski...You were the inspiration for me going from true duals to an X-pipe lol! I love my X-pipe set up, sounds great and a lot more smoother than the dual exhaust...but I will admit it was a major PITA to install on my back laying on the driveway...

[Gregski]

my buddy Mopar Seth gave me the idea of using a Dodge 833 backup switch instead of buying a $25 connector for the GM one, which got me into thinking, what if we just swap switches, and have to buy nothing

well here they is side by side (welll top and bottom) the blade one on top is off of my 1974 Muncise SM465 the roundy round is from the 1984 New Process 833, they look same enuff fer me so I swapped them and will let you know if that works

[enaberif]

Switch should be a two wire setup with the ball (detent) acting as the switch. When the detent ball is pressed in you have electrons flowing and when its out electrons stop.

Easy way to check this is grab a multimeter and probe both prongs and press the ball in and out.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

Switch should be a two wire setup with the ball (detent) acting as the switch. When the detent ball is pressed in you have electrons flowing and when its out electrons stop.

Easy way to check this is grab a multimeter and probe both prongs and press the ball in and out.

thanks bud, I know the switch works cause it's my old working switch, question being will the reverse lock out tab like mating with that ball in this transmission and make enuff contact to activate it, for that I need the trans in the car at the right angle in the right position with fluid and my girl sittin' beside me, ha ha

[Gregski]

so my first setback is that the rear U joints are of two different sizes, my old drive shaft spider cross thingie measures 1.063 in diameter, and the new donor drive shaft cross thingie is bigger at 1.129 so it won't could fit in the U joint or yoke what ever you call the thing in the differential

what ta do? what ta do?

can we switch caps? you know the ones that hold the roller bearings, maybe the tube inside there be of the same diameter

[Jeramy]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so my first setback is that the rear U joints are of two different sizes, my old drive shaft spider cross thingie measures 1.063 in diameter, and the new donor drive shaft cross thingie is bigger at 1.129 so it won't could fit in the U joint or yoke what ever you call the thing in the differential

what ta do? what ta do?

can we switch caps? you know the ones that hold the roller bearings, maybe the tube inside there be of the same diameter

precision u joint part number 449

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jeramy

precision u joint part number 449

wow Jeramy you da man, thank you so much, that might could work if I can find a bit longer shaft

[Gregski]

so the final piece of the puzzle showed up the overdrive transmission side cover gasket, so I sprayed one gasket adhesive on both sides of it and slapped the side cover on the transmission, than I adjusted the fingers

I went to replace the bushings and whoa realized this is a GM transmission ladies and gentlemen, so if they is going to weld in their non HURST sticks they don't need no stinking bushings, not nylon not steel, they don't use any bushings, ha ha

the nylon ones would not fit, and there weren't any in there to begin with

[Gregski]

originally I thought the Turbo 350 driveshaft I got would not slip in to the tailshaft of the overdrive 833 transmission since the shaft was keyed but the tailshaft wasn't, but than I said now Greg don' be skierd try again, so I wiggled it a bit, stared at it for a minute than I stared inside it for a minute, and then I shoved her in

turns out the area that is keyed just skips a spline instead of having a wider spline, so that had no effect on the two mating

score that as a win!

[Gregski]

dang it's passed midnight gentlemen, it's Saturday, so it's officially:

D Day!

[Gregski]

so lets get this Party started!

has anybody seen my nice black dress socks, anybody?

[Gregski]

I'm tired so I'll let the pictures do the talking

[Gregski]

I like this pic the most, it's like an assembly line

[Gregski]

put the mosquito wheel on with some Blue (medium) loctite and torqued it down to "as hard as you can, plus a quarter turn" ha ha, jk 60ft lbs

[Gregski]

Check this guy out fellas, he is so [ahem] clutch!

[Gregski]

that's it for me, good night everybody!

[Rob C]

So close!! Liking the 2.5 exhaust btw..Had it in my old truck too. I loved the sound. Let's everyone know your there

[hatzie]

More on how and why the H and X pipes work and what they are useful for...
If I understand this correctly now... You can get rid of some of the offensive drone without killing the aggressive tone using an X or H pipe... Maybe somewhere between the 40 & 50 series running and still have the growl when you get in it. Maybe.

http://my350z.com/forum/intake-exhau...ml#post7111390

"There's a big misconception about the intended function of the X-Pipe versus the H-Pipe.

The H-Pipe does balance out the pressures and slightly helps start the scavange effect on the next exhaust pulse. But it's most effective use when properly placed and sized is for it's tuning function. Sound waves enter the tube changing to a specific frequency that was found to be a problem. Prehaps a droaning noise at highway speeds. With the correct placement in the system and correct inside diameter, sound waves entering the tub shift to the problem frequency. When like frequencies collide, they cancel.

The power comes from opening up the exhaust. A slight add comes from the scavenge effect but ultimately the H-pipe is to counter the noise from opening up the exhaust.

The X-Pipe on the other hand is more effective in sound cancellation. By forcing the exhaust streams to collide, some sound frequencies are cancelled. (In a much larger range than the H-Pipe.) You would think the two exhaust paths colliding would cause more backpressure. In reality, the exhaust flow mass follows the path down the same side. (Bending around the inside of the X.)

The sound frequencies cross paths of the exhaust. Cancellation of like frequencies occur even though the mass of the exhaust flow hits and deflects into the same side pipe.

This is all assuming WOT condition or near full mass flow rate. At lower flow rate, the X-pipe does make the low frequency idle sound a little irratic. Something desireable in a Mustang or Corvette. But a Cadillac wouldn't care for it.

This is used as a band aid in tuning high performance vehicles to meet the legal pass-by requirements. Something that is difficult to do on a car like the Viper Roadster or Corvette.

The X-pipe idea was tried on the Viper roadster but ultimately they used the H-pipe design. If you've ever seen the OE system on a Viper Roadster, the exhaust exits the headers, enters an un-Godly hot converter that I have seen damage body panels and melt basalt packing back into a crystal solid. It runs down the side of the car into the main muffler and then to the rear axle. Then it turns to the opposite side and hits the H-pipe which is over the axle and exits out before the axle on the opposite side of the car. If it were not for the Pass-By requirements, this would be an easy design.

Designs like this and the birth of the X-pipe all stem from the need to meet the requirement. Again, the X-pipe just allows the exhaust to be opened up more while tuning out undesireable frequencies. It's ability to "add" power is a debate most drawn up by aftermarket marketing managers. Everyone loves a gadget."
--- Quoted from the above linked post by User Phreakedout at the 350Z forum

[Gregski]

so the engine / transmission installation took 12 hours and started with us mating the New Process 833 overdrive transmission to the engine like so

no fluids, no motor oil in the engine, no transmission fluid in the transmission

[Gregski]

the hardest part of the physical install was the transmission crossmember, turns out I did not get the proper 833 crossmember but got a basic 4x4 one instead when I bought the transmission, so we ended up using my original Muncie SM465 crossmember, however to get it to work we had to move it forward about an inch and I think flip it front to back as the holes are a bit offset

so in other words the 833 transmission has the transmission bracket about 1 inch closer to the bellhousing than the Muncie its just off far enough so you can't just drill two new holes in the crossmember as it is only about 2 inches wide in the middle and the bolt heads would not fit

we also had to notch the floor sheet metal to make room for the shifter, more specifically the shifter bracket as it sits about 1 inch too far back to clear the natural opening cavity

[Gregski]

the engine getting installed...

[Gregski]

the swan neck HURST shifter stick would not work as it would hit the dash when attempting to shift into 1st or 3rd gears, we even tried mounting it backwards, same problem

so we drilled some 3/8ths holes in the base of the generic stick that came with the shifter and mounted it up for the time being, but another HURST shifter is in our near future

[Gregski]

another problem was the donor drive shaft off of the 1988 short bed 2WD truck, turns out at 56" it is about 3 inches too short, so we need another one but at least we had something to shove in the tailshaft and see for ourselves if it would work or not, that means way more to me than stretching some measuring tape and reading that

but seriously I missed it by one year? remember our generation goes up to 1987

[Gregski]

turns out the truck wanted to spin the driveshaft even when the transmission was in neutral, so we had to pull it out and plug the tailshaft hole with a spray can cap and some masking tape and raise the rear end of the truck to keep the transmission fluid from dripping out ~ ROADKILL would be proud!

the only problem we had during our 25 minute camshaft break in was that the truck overheated after about 10 minutes, guess what, we had to pull the thermostat out to complete the break in so turns out Pontiac Mike was right when originally he told me not to install the thermostat until we break the cam in

that's why we ran for 25 minutes instead of 20 (varying the RPMs between 2000 and 2500) because we stopped to let it cool off to the point where we could yank that thermostat out and top it off with water, we ran water only intsead of coolant and I am so glad we did that, otherwise we would have sweet green coolant all over the engine and the garage floor, etc

we did not bolt up the power steering pump for the cam break in, there was no need plus the new water pump has a threaded hole for that bracket where as the original did not and allowed the long bolt to pass right through, I am going to see if there is a better way to mount the power steering pump than hanging it off that one exhaust manifold bolt, that is just silly

we ran the engine wiring quickly but just ugly enuff for the break in, I hope to nicely tuck it all away so that all you see is the spark plug wires

my '74 water temp sending unit was too big and would not fit in the Vortec head so I had to mount it in the intake manifold, I wonder if the Vortec sending unit will report properly to my '74 guage

we primed the engine with a drill to get oil to all the rockers

we primed the carb with gasoline so it didn't have to suck gas from the line while grinding on the cam

there were no other major problems during break in to report