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06-01-2011, 07:09 PM
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#151 |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Then I removed the spindle bearings. You are going to need a long punch or drift. I used my Gorilla pry bar and hammer. It fits in the spindle perfectly. I tapped out the bearings with a small hammer, being careful not to scratch the surfaces.
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Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 Last edited by TheWhiteElephant; 06-01-2011 at 08:57 PM. |
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06-01-2011, 07:16 PM
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#152 |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
After I painted the exposed spindle surfaces, I installed the new bearings. I got mine from Superior Axle in a kit with the spindle seals...
I had to use a block of wood, a dead blow hammer, the old spindle bearing, and finally a socket to install the new bearings... I also applied a light coat of bearing grease on the surface to help things a bit.
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Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 |
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06-01-2011, 07:36 PM
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#153 |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Then I painted the backing plates. I also had the spot welds on them re-welded prior to painting them because they had cracked.
Be sure to put the new washer in with the chamfered side facing inside...
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Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 Last edited by TheWhiteElephant; 06-01-2011 at 07:45 PM. |
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06-01-2011, 07:42 PM
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#154 |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Then I sprayed the hubs with high heat Rustoleum...
I didn't want to go out and have the studs pressed into the new rotors, so after tapping them in from underneath, I finished them off like this. I used several washers so that I wouldn't have to thread the lug nut too far. I also smeared some anti-seize between the hub and rotor. I used a rented bearing/seal installer and installed the inner bearing cup into the hub. Here are the correct part numbers for the outer bearing, inner bearing, inner bearing race/cup, and inner bearing seal from top to bottom.
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Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 Last edited by TheWhiteElephant; 06-04-2011 at 04:13 PM. |
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06-01-2011, 08:33 PM
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#155 |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Then I packed the inner bearing with grease, installed it into the hub, and then pressed the inner bearing seal with a block of wood.
Then I attempted to slide the rotor and hub assemblies onto the spindles for the next 2 hours and cussed myself silly. They just wouldn't go in. I damaged both seals before I finally gave up in defeat. The next day I went out and bought National seals instead of the "Made in Indonesia" Timkens. The Nationals are made in the USA. By no means am I blaming the seals, but it was actually a blessing in disguise because you can see the huge difference in quality. The side shown is the part that faces inside... Here was the fix. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!!! I polished the surfaces that the inner bearings ride on with 220 grit emery paper. This made all the difference in the world. Unbelievable how the slightest bur can cause all sorts of headaches. The assemblies slid right in...
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Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 |
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06-01-2011, 08:50 PM
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#156 |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Then I sprayed the calipers with caliper paint before installing them and torquing them to the proper values...
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Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 Last edited by TheWhiteElephant; 06-01-2011 at 08:54 PM. |
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06-01-2011, 11:34 PM
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#157 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fairbanks, AK
Posts: 1,830
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Great pics and write up! I love the stance now! How is the ride?
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-Marcus 1991 V3500 L29 454 4L80E NP205 D60/14 Bolt 4.56's 1984 K30 292 TH400 NP205 D60/14 Bolt 4.56's flat bed 7'6" Meyer Plow 2022 Silverado 3500 L8T Project Daily Driver Project Heavy Hauler Project Plow Truck |
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06-02-2011, 12:17 AM
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#158 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: a t w a t e r cali 95301
Posts: 10,713
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
nice build!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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06-02-2011, 06:38 PM
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#159 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: haysville,kansas
Posts: 524
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Great job thanks for the info!!
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06-02-2011, 11:12 PM
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#160 | |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Quote:
 I'll keep you posted.
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Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 |
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06-03-2011, 02:49 PM
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#161 |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Time to rebuild the original hubs. Replacement parts for these are scarce. I wanted to keep the originals. Originals were in good shape with the exception of the plastic dials and the missing gaskets. I got these new dials from Dennis Carpenter. I kinda like the fact that they are Ford models. I did not find any Spicer pieces anywhere. The red looks cool, though.
Found these NOS metal gaskets on ebay... Disassembled everything, degreased, and cleaned everything up. I sprayed the lockout bodies in semi gloss black...
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Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 Last edited by TheWhiteElephant; 06-03-2011 at 07:56 PM. |
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06-03-2011, 02:57 PM
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#162 |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Bought some rubber fiber paper and made some new gaskets. They go between the outer chrome piece and the lockout body. The metal ones go between the lockout body and the wheel hub assembly.
O-rings were in good shape.
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Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 |
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06-03-2011, 03:03 PM
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#163 |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Don't forget the snap ring... Got some new bolts at the hardware store. They were identical to the OEM ones. I couldn't find identical dished washers, but that was probably a good thing since they are allegedly known for not keeping the bolts on. Instead I used these stainless lock washers identical in size to the originals.
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Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 Last edited by TheWhiteElephant; 06-03-2011 at 03:05 PM. |
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06-03-2011, 03:07 PM
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#164 |
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Chevy Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Canyon Lake Texas
Posts: 2,024
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Lots of progress you have going on down there, everything looks great!
I read that someone one here used to make those dials out of aluminum but i don't think he does any more, those would of been cool to have.
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Tony 1985 GMC K2500 restoration Project: Rust, White & Blue 1989 Chevy R3500 CC Cummins & 4X4 swap some day... 1989 Burb (D60, 14BFF, 12V, NV4500, NP205, 37" tires in progress) |
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06-03-2011, 03:26 PM
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#165 |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Got a whole new set of original material brake lines and a combination valve from Inline Tube. I'm very impressed with the quality. They fit just right. I also got a new set of extended stainless steel kevlar coated brake lines from Offroad Design. I highly recommend these to anyone with a 4 or 6 inch lift. I'm in the middle of routing all the brake lines.
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Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 |
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06-03-2011, 03:28 PM
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#166 | |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Quote:
__________________
Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 Last edited by TheWhiteElephant; 06-03-2011 at 03:29 PM. |
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06-03-2011, 03:45 PM
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#167 |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
During all this time I also degreased, cleaned, and wire-wheeled the entire frame in my driveway. Not fun. Then I painted the frame with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator and gave it a second coat with semi gloss Rustoleum. The front 1/2 of the frame was really nice but the rear 1/3 or so if it had very rough surface rust. No heavy scale, though. The bed crossmembers are shot, though.
Take note of the rear brake line. It had heavy, scaly surface rust and was about to go.
__________________
Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 |
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06-03-2011, 04:07 PM
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#168 |
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thinair
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: omaha,ne
Posts: 996
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Good looking truck.
Last edited by thinair; 06-03-2011 at 04:07 PM. |
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06-03-2011, 04:33 PM
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#169 | |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Quote:
__________________
Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 |
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06-03-2011, 04:55 PM
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#170 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Branchville SC
Posts: 1,647
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
I like how your building this truck to be used and not just pretty. BTW, I am in need of extended brake lines for my 4in lifted k5 blazer and those look like what I need!
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2004 z71, 96 z71 on 38s, 88 Chevy k5 blazer, 4in lift. 84 swb project, 82 SWB project , 84 chevy 4x4 lwb project, 88 Jimmy beater/highschool ride. 79 c30. 99 tahoe 4x4 project. and a bunch of parts trucks.. Last edited by spudz; 06-03-2011 at 05:04 PM. |
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06-03-2011, 08:27 PM
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#171 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Hot Springs, AR.
Posts: 1,215
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
I just love this truck more & more!!!
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1977 Chevrolet K30 LWB Crew Cab 497HP Mast Motorsports 6.0L LY6 HO engine GM NV4500 5-speed, Centerforce clutch + NP205 D60 + 14-bolt FF w/ Eaton posi + disc brakes Skyjacker 2.5" full spring lift w/ Nitro shocks Custom paint + interior http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=435722 |
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06-03-2011, 09:03 PM
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#172 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Iraq
Posts: 69
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Nice freakin build man! I enjoy watching it! Keep em comin!!
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Marshall 1976 Chevrolet K10 4wd 2006 Chevrolet Impala (wife) IF IT JAMS FORCE IT!! IF IT BREAKS, IT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED ANYWAY!! 
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06-05-2011, 12:02 AM
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#173 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: climax, mi
Posts: 10
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
nice build, keep it up.
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06-05-2011, 11:29 AM
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#174 |
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Resident of Here
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Wesley Chapel, FL, USA
Posts: 7,716
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Lookin great in red! Good work! Are you going to replace your tie rods and ends?
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~Bradley~ 2004 Black GTO LS2/T56 too much to list  Miss having a truck 
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06-05-2011, 10:56 PM
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#175 | |
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God is good!
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
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Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread
Thanks, everyone.
Quote:
__________________
Mando "It takes a smart man to know when he's stupid." -- Barney Rubble My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367 |
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