Inner Windshield Rust

[twoskies]

Evening All

had my truck on the road going on 2 years, no issues, good truck

ive always had the surface rust on the inner roof where the windshield rubber goes and never have had any leaks or issues

i know if i start on it , its more than likely going to be a mess,
not a problem trying to fix it myself, i welded rockers, cab corners, front and rear pillars, kick panels, cab supports and some floor patches, grinded out the drip channel and resealed

i did spray some kind of rust protector on the windshield rust when i did all the other

is this pretty much the same as all the other repairs, kind of worried about the windshield not fitting quite right after, or are the inner roof patch panels for the most part pretty close

ill more than likely get all my parts and wait it out till spring, just getting some thoughts on this

Thanks and any help appreciated

[mongocanfly]

What kind of truck?....pics would help..

[twoskies]

sorry got late, ill get pictures tomorrow

1972 C10

[twoskies]

pictures

[nsb29]

Your picture is pretty dark but I did this on a 64 buy using a section from a donor truck the bad part is you cannot get to the back side to planish the weld I off set the donor part and used a panel adhesive but spot welded the pinch seem with no issues

[mongocanfly]

Thatll be near a impossibility to fix without seperatating the inner from the outer roof...
With lots of bracing and measuring you should be able to get it back right...
I like the panel adhesive nsb speaks of..you'll have no weld distortion by using it..

[KMC3420]

I too have to make this repair and have sourced my patch panel already, Keyparts 67-70 & 72 My plan was to butt weld this panel in and live with the distortion as has been stated thus far. Shoot for minimal distortion but get a full penetration weld and then use filler as needed. If using the panel adhesive, would you need to use small diameter sheet metal screws to get it as tight as possible, until cured, and then just weld up the screw holes? I could see this working good, as long as you also redid the seam sealer above the drip rail on the outside, which always needs redone. Just thinking this through. The panel adhesive would allow for very minimal filler, but it would be a lap joint.

[twoskies]

Thanks for all the replies

is the windshield frame a double wall that the new metal attaches to and should there be any spot welds, and how to cut through one panel without going thru upper, is there a noticeable gap this close to the windshield guess a dremel would be more controllable

the panel bonding process seems ok but ive never used it before , do you have to use some sort of lip to attach to

im pretty sure i could weld it, just go slow

ill look through a few posts before i do it, if anyone has a few pictures themselves that would very much appreciated

After i get the rusted part out, was thinking about the eastwood rust convertor as best i can spray, followed by body cavity wax, wait a couple days, so the weld doesnt catch fire , ( lol, ive done this )



As Always the hardest part of any job is getting started

Thanks Again for the replies

[MP&C]

Rust from condensation inside the roof over the years draining to the low spots, rusting from the inside-out.. It needs to be separated to fix...

This thread is about the best in showing this cause/effect:


http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=582950








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[KMC3420]

This thread has some good pictures of the repair so you can see what you might be dealing with once opened up.

Click here