Clutch Pedal Springs (odd clutch feel)....

[AllGoNoShow]

I've been chasing down a weird clutch pressure/feel in my 68 C10 swapped to a Tremec TKO (also redid the whole linkage, new fork, throwout bearing and clutch). When I release the clutch pedal, it almost feels like the pedal wants to get stuck half way down and not return (I had to add two, very stiff return springs on the fork, which makes this feel somewhat better, but the pedal pressure lacks uniformity and lends itself to inadvertent clutch dumps).

Well after looking at my clutch assembly (picture below), I see I have a very large (and very stiff) spring that attaches to the mid-point of the clutch pedal (in addition to the normal thinner return spring at the top of the pedal arm). From what I can gather, not all C10s have this additional thick spring, and from reading one thread on here, it actually is used to pull the pedal to the floor, not return it to the top (which after disconnecting everything and playing with it, is exactly how it acts)- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ch+pedal+eric8

So I guess my question is, what is the purpose of this big heavy spring, why is it on just some trucks, and can I remove it to see if it fixes my problem? Even looking at LMC's clutch pedal component diagram, it doesn't show it, nor does Lokar's replacement pedals for these trucks even use it.

Nick

['68OrangeSunshine]

I have K/1500 GMC Jimmy that has that same underdash big spring. I thought it was 4x4 only, or K/ Series. My C/10 only has a horizontal spring for clutch pedal return.
What engine size? Do you have a Borg and Beck style clutch or a diaphragm? HD like Centerforce?

[AllGoNoShow]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

I have K/1500 GMC Jimmy that has that same underdash big spring. I thought it was 4x4 only, or K/ Series. My C/10 only has a horizontal spring for clutch pedal return.
What engine size? Do you have a Borg and Beck style clutch or a diaphragm? HD like Centerforce?

It’s a C10 but it was, originally, one of the odd Camper Edition C10s (which from my understanding were usually c20s), if that makes a difference. It’s got a McLeod diaphragm clutch in it now. Originally 327 but now 355. If I take the big spring off, just want to make sure I don’t screw anything up cause it’s unlikely I’m getting it back on without taking the whole assembly out.
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['68OrangeSunshine]

You need an expert. I'm just a 49 year survivor.
I do have a wacky clutch system on my '71 GMC Jimmy, K/1500 [But if it was a Chevy it would be a K/5]
We had to add an additional length on the lower clutch push rod. Also when working on the Z-Bar, I have to hook a ratchet strap on the rear axle to let the pressure off the clutch fork.
I have a 1 ton Borg and Beck clutch. I had a Centerforce II, but that replaced it.
The vertical spring, I kept.

[palallin]

Just a warning: that spring is dangerous. I was working on the pedal mount in my truck years ago (there's a detailed post about it somewhere), and the spring pulled the pedal bar into the mount and scissored the end of my finger off. It is serious power: happened before I knew it. Be careful fooling around with it!

[AllGoNoShow]

Got rid of the big spring (somewhat carefully), replaced the worn plastic bushings on the clutch shaft, and re-adjusted the brake and clutch pedals about 2" down from where they originally sat, which was super high (saw a post on here about putting adjustable stops on the pedal under the dash, then readjusting the linkages for the new height). Clutch feels great now and the lowering of the pedals has been one of the single greatest mods I've done to make the car more comfortable to drive (I am over 6 ft. and had already put the lower seat brackets in).