How to place a distributor in a new L31 Vortec?

[msg]

Ive been looking at 350 small block videos on how to install a new distributor but I dont have the timing plates that I see in the videos with a tab and numeric markings. Whats the best way to get things lined up right?

I have the new melonized gear on the distributor and before I place it in I would think that I need to take the driver side valve cover off and rotate the harmonic balancer until the 2nd lifter on the 1st cylinder has dropped back down, which should show the slot on the balancer and the divot on that tab thing line up?

This is the distributor, before I installed the gear.



And some pics of the timing tab and mark on the balancer

[sweetk30]

I rolled mine by hand and felt for puff out plug hole and lined up the t-cover notch to balancer notch . Dropped in in as normal with breakin lube on gear and no problems for over a year or daily driving. I set the timing on my edelbrock pro-flo 4 aspr direction with digital timing light that compensated for not extra timing marks .

Dont forget to get the plug for the crank sensor hole on the bottom of the timing cover or you will get a MASSIVE oil leak .

[msg]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

I rolled mine by hand and felt for puff out plug hole and lined up the t-cover notch to balancer notch . Dropped in in as normal with breakin lube on gear and no problems for over a year or daily driving.

So removing the valve cover wouldnt be needed, just place my thumb over the 1st cyl spark plug hole until there is pressure?

Originally Posted by sweetk30

I set the timing on my edelbrock pro-flo 4 aspr direction with digital timing light that compensated for not extra timing marks .

I have a standard timing light, hopefully I can figure out how to adjust the timing right with it.

Originally Posted by sweetk30

Dont forget to get the plug for the crank sensor hole on the bottom of the timing cover or you will get a MASSIVE oil leak .

Wow, thanks! I assume its the red plastic plug in my pic. What size plug is needed there?

I had primed the engine with a drill and the prime tool with break in oil in there. I didnt look at the the front afterwards but as I was looking for the sensor hole you mentioned I saw some puddles on the block. I need to find out where they would have oozed out from.

[sweetk30]

my new gm engine had oil all over it from being built . no leaks so far i didnt do my self .

[sweetk30]

this was the one i got . but there out of stock for now . https://www.eficonnection.com/home/p...illet-aluminum

there are other brands . and some just put the sensor in and call it good . but a new sensor cost a bit more and you still need the bolt .

[Captainfab]

The videos you have watched about installing the distributor in an L31 are specifically for when you have the factory EFI. For what you are doing the procedure is exactly the same as for any small block with a carburetor.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by msg

SI have a standard timing light, hopefully I can figure out how to adjust the timing right with it.

Get some timing tape. You put it on the balancer and it allows you to use your standard timing light and the notch to get the timing right.

[msg]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

my new gm engine had oil all over it from being built . no leaks so far i didnt do my self .

I feel a bit better knowing you had similar oil puddles on a new GM motor.

Originally Posted by sweetk30

this was the one i got . but there out of stock for now . https://www.eficonnection.com/home/p...illet-aluminum

there are other brands . and some just put the sensor in and call it good . but a new sensor cost a bit more and you still need the bolt .

Ive been looking and found a few things. I think this is right...a sensor $50 https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-3.../dp/B000C9JXZ2

or an expansion plug

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SEP3819013


I saw that on this thread that the Captain himself was contributed to 10yrs ago.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=396643

If the expansion plug cap is easy enough to install at this point I could give that a go?

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The videos you have watched about installing the distributor in an L31 are specifically for when you have the factory EFI. For what you are doing the procedure is exactly the same as for any small block with a carburetor.

Thanks Capt, this was the one I saw about taking the valve cover off. Looks like a sbc with the HEI distributor. His had the timing tab with the numbers on it though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4WRL513Gx4

Originally Posted by truckster

Get some timing tape. You put it on the balancer and it allows you to use your standard timing light and the notch to get the timing right.

I will look for some timing tape, thanks!


On this L31 swap from my old 350, are there any other gotchas that I should know about ? The sensor plug I would have never known to look for, I am just a green as can be with this stuff.

[truckster]

Do you have a temp sensor installed? If not, member A1971Blazer turns them down on a CNC and they come out really nice.

[msg]

Originally Posted by truckster

Do you have a temp sensor installed? If not, member A1971Blazer turns them down on a CNC and they come out really nice.

I hope I have it right, the temp unit I bought I was planning to place in the manifold where I plugged it up earlier. I was going to remove the plug and drop it in.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by msg

I hope I have it right, the temp unit I bought I was planning to place in the manifold where I plugged it up earlier. I was going to remove the plug and drop it in.

That will work. I wanted mine in the stock location (left side head) so I got one from him that's turned down to fit in the head.

You'll also need a coolant bypass. It goes from the water pump to the intake. You've got enough ports there that it shouldn't be a problem. I found a Gates hose #12044 that had just the right bend for the way I installed mine.

[msg]

The coolant bypass was something that came up before, I had it routed from the pump to the manifold but in order for the vintage air system to be installed I need that port off the top of the water pump. So I called Edlebrock and Vintage Air to help trouble shoot and the direction I was given by both is to not dedicate that top port of the water pump for a by pass.

Its covered in this thread I had on that issue. I sure hope I was given the right approach.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=813439

[msg]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

this was the one i got . but there out of stock for now . https://www.eficonnection.com/home/p...illet-aluminum

there are other brands . and some just put the sensor in and call it good . but a new sensor cost a bit more and you still need the bolt .

I did a crankshaft sensor search for a 1997 Chevy C1500 with a 5.7 and found something like this to plug the hole. Would this work? Id need the M6-1x16 hex flange bolt though

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Replace...sAAOSwbsdVKdWg


This is the engine I have

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12681432

[msg]

I think I got it right, the distributor went flush in as I rotated the engine and the 1st cyl rocker at the front had compressed and returned. At that point the timing line on the balancer met the tab. The distributor though was pointing straight to the front of the engine and not to the 1st cylinder.

[msg]

When I rotated further the 2nd rocker compressed and returned and at that point the distributor was pointing right at the 1st cylinder but the mark on the balancer wasnt in line with the timing tab. All normal?

[AussieinNC]

Rotate the crank back to where the notch lines up with the marker on the timing cover....

Lift distributor up about 3", turn the rotor counterclockwise one tooth (about and inch) and reinstall the distributor....

If it doesnt go all the way down just rotate the engine until it goes al the way down.

To double check its correct...rotate engine crank clockwise until pressure is felt in number one plug hole, line up notch and check position of rotor button...

BTW...always rotate the crank clockwise...

[tdangle]

What I've also found when installing the dist is most of the time the oil pump drive needs to be turned back a bit counter clockwise. Last week when I put in a new dist, I setup the timing mark at TDC compression for cylinder 1 and then just kept putting in the dist and removing it and reinstalling it. It walks the rotor in a clockwise rotation each time it bottoms fully and finally got it pointing to where I wanted #1 plug wire. then just rotate the dist a little till the rotor tip is just before #1 plug. Snug the dist clamp and fire it up. this will put you real close