350 GM Crate Motor questions for a 66 C10

[msg]

I pulled the 350 engine out as part of the restoration on my 66 back in 2015. The restoration Im after is mostly stock, just a cruiser that gets out for maybe 60 miles a week. Not a racing truck with tons of power. It was running pretty good had good compression 150 on all but 3 cyl that were reading 145. Now that I am completing the body work and re assembling a friend recommended taking the engine and opening it up and see what condition things are in. We have found some things like:

1. Camshaft had significant wear on a number of lobes (i.e. visible to the naked eye when comparing lobe to lobe).
2. Crankshaft rod journals had spme scratches you could feel with your fingernail along with three deeper knicks (for lack of a better word).
3. Crankshaft main journals and rod journals had both been turned down .010”
4. Measured some the bearing clearances with plastigauge and had approximately .002” clearance on the rods and .004" clearance on the mains.
5. Pistons were .030” over and the cylinders had a minimal ridge. A few areas of what looks like pitted-etching on some cylinder walls.

Since we saw these things I have called around to a few machine shops to get an estimate on looking over the engine parts that have all been completely disassembled, organized and boxed. The goal being to see what may be salvageable and whats shot and how much it would cost to machine things and hand it back so we can re assemble. The estimate prices ranged from $100 to $300 to look it over and give a report.

The other thought is to just buy a crate motor and be done. I called today to a local chevy dealer in Georgia and asked about buying a new 350 and explained what I was looking for and what year I had. He mentioned part # 12703983 for $3182.00. When I looked that engine up it took me to www.gmperformancemotor.com and showed me this.

https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/12703983.html

Ive also looked at this one that is cheaper
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/12681429.html

And this one thats a little pricier
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19355658.html

Anyone ever bought a create motor from a chevy dealer?
Was it a good experience? Engine seem right?

I just dont know what to look for and which site to trust so I had an easier feeling going through a dealer. Any thoughts and advice would really help.

Ill post pics of my engine before I pulled it so you can see what I had on it. Headers arent a must as I restore, may just go with a stock manifold by the way. And Ive got the quadrajet still but get turned around on what I see in the description on the engines from that dealer site that says it requires an electric fuel pump. Anyone dealt with that in a swap for a stock like motor like this in a 66?

[msg]

Pics of what was going on with the motor before it was pulled.

[msg]

few more

[Dead Parrot]

1st motor is specified for fuel injection trucks.
2nd motor is the basic crate 350 that many of our trucks came with before fuel injection showed up.
3rd motor has a different cam and a few other tweaks. Several folks say it isn't a good setup as the cam is an older style cam.

Option 2 is what I went with about 25 years ago. I use the truck as a pickup and not much for normal passenger driving. Just now getting to 100k on the motor. Still in good shape. Plenty of power for a basic work pickup. I did buy it from a Chevy dealer but that was pre-Internet shopping for everything. You can or at least used to be able to get the same motor from Jegs and Summit. Sometimes even with free shipping.

With proper tuning and timing, it makes decent power for a stock motor.

[Captainfab]

Other than the fact that you will have to buy a different flywheel/flexplate, intake manifold and distributor gear, the L31 Vortec 350 crate engine is really hard to beat for the cost. it is a far better engine than either of those you posted links to.

[geezer#99]

I’ve seen your first linked motor 300 bucks cheaper on Summit.
The 290 horse motor is a real pooch. Too much cam and no compression.

You’ve got a donor motor, why not get a bare block that’s machined already and use your crank and rods. Get new pistons and rebuild your heads. Get a slightly warmer cam too.

Bare block like this.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...RoCbMkQAvD_BwE

[cadillac_al]

It sounds like you just need a new cam. If you are just going to putt around 50 miles a week your old engine will last forever.

[msg]

The crankshaft has some wear of course like the first pic, you can feel the ridges with your fingertip. There were 2 lobes that had some dings. When we removed the pistons we used the rubber hoses so I am pretty sure they were there before. Not sure we could reuse it, but the $100 inspection fee would tell us if we decide that rebuilding makes more sense. Just trying to weigh it all out.

[mongocanfly]

A other option is buy a assembled short block...that is if your heads are good...being in ga your not far from summit...that's where I'd look

[msg]

The heads were planned to be rebuilt so $400 for that. At this point for my needs and to not complicate the install the 195 HP option seems to work best.

https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/12681429.html

Now Im thinking to try and sell the disassembled motor I have, what would be a reasonable price to ask you think?

[Captainfab]

This is the engine I was suggesting. More HP and an all around better engine.

https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/12681432.html

And you can find them for less money too.

[geezer#99]

Here’s a smoking deal.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/059/0282/10002/-1

[mongocanfly]

You may have luck selling the engine for parts ,but with it already having machine work done, and needing more done, I wouldnt expect much if anything..its hard enough selling a running smallblock

[msg]

Thanks Capt and Geezer, in both cases you mention what would I need that would be additional to fit into the setup I have now?

[msg]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

You may have luck selling the engine for parts ,but with it already having machine work done, and needing more done, I wouldnt expect much if anything..its hard enough selling a running smallblock

Thanks Greg, would I just scrap it then? Or make an offer on Craigslist ad? $300?

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by msg

Thanks Capt and Geezer, in both cases you mention what would I need that would be additional to fit into the setup I have now?

Likely need intake, balancer, electric fuel pump, flywheel or flexplate, maybe carb, distributor gear.
It adds up in a hurry. Likely an extra 500 bucks.
This one would be better. All your external stuff would be re-usable.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per...429-R/10002/-1

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by msg

Thanks Greg, would I just scrap it then? Or make an offer on Craigslist ad? $300?

It’s worth zero dollars unless it’s the missing numbers matching block for some rich guys mega dollar resto.

You got an iffy block, heads, crank, cam.
Might have a hard time giving it away.

[mongocanfly]

^^^ I agree ^^^
...buddy of mine tried selling his running 350 back in the summer...had it on craigslist for 2 months...started asking $750...dropped price to $500.....sold it for $350...

[msg]

Thanks guys, Ill give a try and and expect nothing.

[Dead Parrot]

You could always use the old motor as practice for engine assembly. Just use all the old parts and pretend they are new.

I would get your new motor installed before selling the old one. Handy source for those plugs, hose fittings, etc. that new crate motors don't include. Even if you want to get a new part, nice to have the old one to match up.

[msg]

Sound advice, thanks!

[garyd1961]

I would go with the "GM" L31, it's an awesome motor once you get it set up. You can use most of your old brackets, motor mounts, starter and such.
You will need a new Intake, the Summit brand stage 1 dual plane for around $150 works great.
You will also need a flexplate for a one piece rear main seal engine. I used Summit's SFI rated flexplate for around $80 if I remember right.
You will also need an electric fuel pump. I have been running a Holley Mighty-Mite rated for 400 hp and it has worked great. I forget the price but it wasn't very expensive.
You will also need a melonized gear on your distributor. It's a fairly cheap part and easy to swap, just drive the pin out swap the gear and reinstall the pin.
You end up with a smooth running motor that has great low end power where you need it. You also have a roller cam so no need for oil additives. At 375 ft lbs of torque down low in the rpm scale this thing will get up and go.

Edit, Another thing with the one piece rear main seal and center bolt valve covers you won't be plagued with the dreaded sbc oil leaks like the old style motors.

[msg]

I am coming around to the L31 everyone is suggesting if this stays in the $500 ballpark in additional parts and doesnt make things really difficult to install.

Originally Posted by garyd1961

You will need a new Intake, the Summit brand stage 1 dual plane for around $150 works great.

$163 (if I have the right part here)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-226018/reviews/

Originally Posted by garyd1961

You will also need a flexplate for a one piece rear main seal engine. I used Summit's SFI rated flexplate for around $80 if I remember right.

$61 (if I have the right part here)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...0sfi/overview/

Originally Posted by garyd1961

You will also need an electric fuel pump. I have been running a Holley Mighty-Mite rated for 400 hp and it has worked great. I forget the price but it wasn't very expensive.

I searched on Summits site but really dont know what version I would need. Ill call tomorrow and get some help, but $50 to $90 was what i saw.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-427

Originally Posted by garyd1961

You will also need a melonized gear on your distributor. It's a fairly cheap part and easy to swap, just drive the pin out swap the gear and reinstall the pin.

On this I need to take some measurements before I can get a part to order. Ill look for the distributor I took off and measure what they need.

Summits items list there is around $300


In contrast I called the Jegs tech tonight and got these as parts. Around $500, but that edlebrock intake did the most damage.

The engine itself was the cheapest
https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per...81432/10002/-1

Electric Fuel pump
$105
https://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/12-930/10002/-1

Intake
$252
https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2716/10002/-1

Flexplate
$117
https://www.jegs.com/i/B-M/130/20239/10002/-1


The other thing I am looking at is the exhaust. The headers I had on the 350 were rusty but working. Not sure if they will fit the L31. If not I'll be looking for a new set...or just buy more stock manifolds instead.

[geezer#99]

That electric fuel pump isn’t good for a carb.
What carb are you using?

[msg]

Well the carb I have is a quadrajet, but with the way things have been going I may be in for another new purchase. It was working when I took it off in 2015.