How much would you pay?

[cgster]

Im looking at a 68 C10 SWB truck that is in good condition. Has a few minor fixable dents but all rust issues have been fixed correctly such as floor, cab corners and rockers, roof and drip rail area looks great, interior looks good. It has also been converted to 5 lug, frame painted and gas tank moved to under bed. Truck does not have an engine or transmission, Needs all brake components, needs all wiring. What would a truck like this typically go for or what would you pay for it. Just trying to see if price is right. Thanks.

[Willys_MB]

I'm no expert, but comparing it to the other trucks that are out there I wouldn't pay very much. To me I'd rather have something that runs and I can work on slowly. The fact that it needs a whole bunch of work before you can even drive it is a major negative mark for me.

Here in CA we get long beds popping up with little rust for $2,000 all the time. I'd rather get that and enjoy the truck than buy something that's going to turn into a multi-year project. Of course, everybody is in a different situation and you might be able to slam it out in a couple of months. I wouldn't pay more than $1,000-1,500 just for the value of it already being a swb.

Just my two cents, but I'm not up do date on what things go for. I just know it's not worth much to me.

[silvertonguedevil]

Pictures speak for probably 80% of the equation. That would GREATLY help with some accuracy to this question.

[cgster]

Originally Posted by silvertonguedevil

Pictures speak for probably 80% of the equation. That would GREATLY help with some accuracy to this question.

Sorry, I didn't have a pic to post with it.

[sick472]

Without pics or a full sheet of other bits of info...I'd say between 2 and $5000. I would think it would be on the lower side if all the old parts like wiring harness, seat, bumper brackets and so on and so on where not part of the package. Even though old parts may not be used for your build, they still carry a story to help put the old thing back together and the old parts can be sold at the end for some extra project funds. If you can build these truck in your sleep then not having the baskets of scrap parts shouldn't be too big of a deal, but if you are missing all the bracketry like bumper brackets, shift linage, hood hinges, steering wheel, blah, blah,blah, it adds up fast even from LMC. Now, if the rust repair is really great and the truck is on it's way to being a well done frame-off restoration then the $5000 mark is more appropriate. Things like already rebuilt suspension add up, not just salvaged parts from different trucks. At this stage of these truck's "life"...salvaged parts aren't worth much and would likely need to be changed out to be safe and fully functional (parts like springs, bushings, tie rods, steering box, etc., etc).

Get some pics up and the more experienced truck movers will chime in.

[cgster]

Originally Posted by sick472

Without pics or a full sheet of other bits of info...I'd say between 2 and $5000. I would think it would be on the lower side if all the old parts like wiring harness, seat, bumper brackets and so on and so on where not part of the package. Even though old parts may not be used for your build, they still carry a story to help put the old thing back together and the old parts can be sold at the end for some extra project funds. If you can build these truck in your sleep then not having the baskets of scrap parts shouldn't be too big of a deal, but if you are missing all the bracketry like bumper brackets, shift linage, hood hinges, steering wheel, blah, blah,blah, it adds up fast even from LMC. Now, if the rust repair is really great and the truck is on it's way to being a well done frame-off restoration then the $5000 mark is more appropriate. Things like already rebuilt suspension add up, not just salvaged parts from different trucks. At this stage of these truck's "life"...salvaged parts aren't worth much and would likely need to be changed out to be safe and fully functional (parts like springs, bushings, tie rods, steering box, etc., etc).

Get some pics up and the more experienced truck movers will chime in.

Thanks for the reply. It does have new suspension (shocks, springs), new hood hinges, seat and all interior is there. Comes with both original bumpers. Clean clear title.

[1971Stepside]

It's worth whatever you are willing to pay for it. It amazes me what these trucks are going for. I see rusted out parts trucks that sellers are asking $1,000 for. Take a look at what guys are asking for NOS parts on this forum and you will see that the market is crazy...IMO. So, if you want the truck and you think it is in your wheel house to put her back on the road then buy it. Someone will always tell you that you paid too much.

[sick472]

You could be sitting on a more expensive opportunity there, but without more details like glass condition, installed or not, engine/tranny parts or no, to what % is the sheet metal primed and ready for paint, bed condition in, around, & underneath, tailgate? Don't forget the grill, those are expensive. My project truck could come close to fitting your original description, mine has a motor and tranny, but no interior and I would not think of less than 15K. Part of that is the love for my truck and the fact that I do not want to sell. Your seller may need to sell and that could be to your advantage.

The real question for you to answer is..."What is your budget for the build and can you buy the truck for what they are asking and still have enough left over to see it through?"

[cgster]

Originally Posted by sick472

You could be sitting on a more expensive opportunity there, but without more details like glass condition, installed or not, engine/tranny parts or no, to what % is the sheet metal primed and ready for paint, bed condition in, around, & underneath, tailgate? Don't forget the grill, those are expensive. My project truck could come close to fitting your original description, mine has a motor and tranny, but no interior and I would not think of less than 15K. Part of that is the love for my truck and the fact that I do not want to sell. Your seller may need to sell and that could be to your advantage.

All glass is there. All body panels are there in good shape. 2 dents in the truck that are fixable. Tailgate in good shape. Bodypanels have no rust except some surface rust. All the truck is there minus engine, transmission and brakes and wiring.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Perhaps break it down. If the parts were sold individually and we assume the parts are real good, what would you expect to pay for..............

cab $800-1200?
short bed and tailgate $1500-2000?
Doors and fenders $800?
Hood and cowl $400?

Pretty close to 4K.

No wiring and brakes might be considered a bonus if you plan to improve it anyway. As mentioned, that may mean it's a little more difficult to assemble.

Comes down to how bad you want it, and how it compares to what else is available.

[1968aj]

cant get close without pictures. one major item is the bed . step or fleet? step beds go for 300. fleetbeds can be worth 1500. truck maybe 1500. this is what I see in TEXAS ON AVERAGE.

[GASoline71]

Is it a real short bed? Not a cut down long bed?

Personally I wouldn't pay near as much for a rig with no engine/transmission or any wiring.

I drove a C20 parts truck (350/TH400) home 2.5 hours and I bet I paid more for that then I would a half finished non-running truck.

Gary

[Coley]

Ok, quick recap:
-1968 SWB fleet truck
-No engine
-No transmission
-No brakes
-No wiring
-Body is not original and has been rusted....and has now been repaired....also the same body has some dents.
....and no pics.
Okay, this is a near complete top to bottom project...and before this things see road daylight it will be $10,000 to get it running, road ready and driving.......all day long.

-$1500- max.

...my two bits.
Coley

[custom10nut]

I’m lookin at a complete ‘52 3100. But I guess that would be a different forum
The worth of a truck is really kinda what it’s worth to you.
A roller is obviously not the same as a running truck
No title is not a good selling point
On the other hand, it’s foolish to use your money to pay for someone’s project, with no guarantee that it’s quality work.
Ask what they want and then go from there

[cornerstone]

I sold a 70' SWB back in Jan. that was also without a drivetrain, and had pretty bad inner roof rust, the bed floor was completely gone, for 2k. I think your truck should bring at least that. Post pics if you can!

[wesmigletz]

I live in North Texas. I've been offered $750 and $1200 for my 67 SWB over the past couple months while out driving it around. My truck runs and drives, it's rust free, but has a few dents, too.

[HO455]

Spend some time searching the Craig's List finds thread to find comparable trucks. A truck like you describe is worth little unless you have the time and money to fix everything, including repairs already done. One of the troubling spots for me would be the rust repairs. Why are they selling after this was done? How confident are you that they have been done correctly? Maybe they are crooked or attached with adhesive. Are the doors and fenders attached and do they line up correctly with good gaps? If not then it is likely you would have to start over with new ones and hope the cab can be realigned correctly (If they welded a twist in the cab) If you can't assess these things before buying then you will pay for them twice. I would recommend finding a competent local to take with you who can point out things you may be missing in the moment. For me here in the Pacific Northwest it would have to be under a 1k and a clean title.

[Problems]

I bought a super clean 67 SWB roller no motor or trans earlier this year. It came with a bunch of extra parts, 2nd front clip, and a truck load of parts like green tint glass, vintage air, boxes of small stuff. It also is on a full custom chassis with Corvette suspension, so maybe not a direct comparison. But I paid $8900 and think I damn near stole it.

In the end it’s worth whatever you’re happy paying for it.

[jocko]

Rather than look at the sum of the value of the parts you would have if you bought it to estimate it’s value - I’d recommend adding up the cost of what it needs to be made into an actual running and driving truck. That number is probably a lot more than what you think - making the initial purchase price pale in comparison. Without pics, no estimate is possible. Perhaps you could share the asking price - might get some more definitive yays or nays. My spidey sense says run away.

[lil hoodlum]

No motor, no transmission, no brakes, no wiring, etc..

I wouldn't pay more than $1,000 but that is me. I think $700 to $800 is fair price to pay. It is a project truck that will take a lot of fund$ to bring back to driving condition.

[YBNORML]

These kind of threads are pointless. Prices posted here are opinions and for the most part are not rooted in reality.

The only way to find an answer to this question has already been stated. Search your local sale formats and see what comparable trucks are going for.

For example that truck would sell for between $6000 and $10000 in Alberta. If it’s a true shortbox and the body is as good as you say.

[rjs53]

Best way to find out what its worth.... ask the owner what he wants for it.

[plowro8]

Originally Posted by YBNORML

These kind of threads are pointless. Prices posted here are opinions and for the most part are not rooted in reality.

The only way to find an answer to this question has already been stated. Search your local sale formats and see what comparable trucks are going for.

For example that truck would sell for between $6000 and $10000 in Alberta. If it’s a true shortbox and the body is as good as you say.

If the truck has fake patina, the value goes up quite a bit..

Seriously though, the thread is not pointless. The guy has questions and he is getting answers. What is really pointless is responding to someone's thread and telling them it's pointless.

It was mentioned above that the OP should just ask the seller the price to find out what it's worth. Sometimes it takes the opinions of other truck enthusiasts to help make a decision on what to offer... Seems pretty common sense and fair to me.

As far as replacement value, $1500-3000. If you could get it for $1500 it would be a steal, but if you spent $3000 I think you can still hold your head up.

[tutone]

A post above is absolutely correct. A roller,(except for the clear matching title), is worth no more than the sum of it's parts. Even with the missing parts, there are dozens of hurdles to jump. You can do brakes /eng/and harness for about 1500-2500, if you don't get too crazy. Then you don.t know the condition of the heating system, steering column, switches, rear end, etc. Ask me how I know.

PS you never pay too much, you just buy in too early on these trucks.

[special-K]

You have to figure the repaired cab is good for $1,500... labor whether doing yourself or paying, it is on a rolling chassis, Only needs minor body work (small dents), and has decent interior. No engine is a good thing, keeps your cost down. Obviously not a truck you expect to take to work next week. So many toss good running motor/trans for LS swap, Many have a running engine in the shop on mothballs, or you buy a piece of crap donor car, truck, whatever.

Look at what is there, what is left to do to get it to various stages of various value. I'd say $3,000- $3,500, but $2,500 would be great. Running and driving would get it to $4,500- $5,000, $4,000 would be great... which means good tires. Looking decent, cool wheels/tires, presentable... $6,000- $7,000. It's a '68 Short bed in good shape!

Yes, you have to take into account where each member is coming from... prices vary area to area. And a lot depends on the general appearance and quality of work. You can take these estimates, look at where they came from, and compare to your area. In some areas the truck will bring a whole lot more, if that's where you lived. In those areas people will pay that much more, due to location, availability, and transportation/import costs.