53 Surburban "Family Truckster"

[8man]

Nice work.

[oldman3]

Sweet...Jim

[NorCalGal]

I really like the brushed look.

[Dieselwrencher]

Very nice work! Did you just gray scotchbrite to accomplish the look? That's what I've done with some aluminum coil covers on some LS swaps.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by 8man

Nice work.

Thanks man

Originally Posted by oldman3

Sweet...Jim

Thanks Jim

Originally Posted by NorCalGal

I really like the brushed look.

Thank you, I like the look as well. I'm usually a chrome/shinny guy. This just has a different look to it.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Very nice work! Did you just gray scotchbrite to accomplish the look? That's what I've done with some aluminum coil covers on some LS swaps.

Thank you, I used a red/maroon scotchbrite. Probably very similar in terms of abrasion.

Marc

[mongocanfly]

Just in case anybody wonders , heres a grit equivalence chart for scotchbrite

[youngrodder]

TIP..

I always received compliments on my 48 truck with how nicely the hood fit, especially on the sides in the back. Over time these AD hood fatten out (de-arch) across the back there they meet the cowl which in turn causes the sides to bow out.

On thing I did on my 48 and I just did it again on my 53 Suburban was re-arch the hood.

Steps: (sorry all of these pics are after pics)
* Remove the plate that is in the middle of the rear support. This lets you bring in the rear sides of the hood easily.

* Using a tow strap (running side to side) and pull in the sides of the hood to create a nice arch of the metal hood skin. Don't go crazy with tension. You will get an idea of where the hood feels best.

* Tighten the plate.

* Clean the gap between the hood metal skin and the brace with a wire wheel (that's what worked best for me). Wipe down area with lacquer thinner.

* Apply a nice bead your favorite panel bond (this is what I used) in the gap between the brace and hood skin. It is about $60.00 for a tube of what I used.

* Use a couple additional straps going forward from the back edge of the hood to help close the gap between the hood skin and the brace. I also use two landscaping pavers across the brace to make sure the gap between the brace and hood skin closed up.

* Let the panel bond cure (in this case I waited 24hrs). Once I removed my straps my hood kept the arch.

Maybe others know about this, I just see a lot of poorly fitting AD hoods so I thought to mention it. I'm less picky with my 53 so I will not go back and body work to make it perfect like we did with my 48.

I will be respraying Raptor liner on the back of the hood. There was some already that looks factory/old? on there and a big section flaked off so I will respray this weekend to make it all uniform.

Marc

[8man]

Thanks, that's a nice tip. The 48 has that issue. I tried to pull it together and tighten the bolts, and it helped, but this will fix it.

[Tempest67]

that is a good to know.


Thanks, ..... still can't wait to see it all together.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by 8man

Thanks, that's a nice tip. The 48 has that issue. I tried to pull it together and tighten the bolts, and it helped, but this will fix it.

Originally Posted by Tempest67

that is a good to know.

Yes if you have any questions, let me know. I can always take a picture of how I positioned my straps.


Thanks, ..... still can't wait to see it all together.

Soon my friend, soon....

Marc

[6DoF]

hope you don't mind! ... i stole your signature picture, modified it for my extra long bed, and used it in my sig on the Jeep forum.

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[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

hope you don't mind! ... i stole your signature picture, modified it for my extra long bed, and used it in my sig on the Jeep forum.

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..;.;;.:;:;.,;..;|/_(O)\______ /_(O)|

Funny, I stole it from someone else (from this forum) and modified it for a Suburban...ha ha

Marc

[youngrodder]

Finished working on the hood last night. I scrapped the undercoating that was flaking off and lightly sanded the underside of the hood. I repainted the latch section last weekend.

I really like the looks of the faux rust areas in contrast of something freshly painted.

Marc

[rnrdthefox]

Excellent tip on getting the hood fit on the sides. I have this issue on mine. Really appreciate it. Thx.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by rnrdthefox

Excellent tip on getting the hood fit on the sides. I have this issue on mine. Really appreciate it. Thx.

Good deal. I installed my hood this weekend. Fit good overall. Almost too tight on the sides, ha ha.

Marc

[oldman3]

Look great...Jim

[Dieselwrencher]

That looks awesome! I'm really thinking about getting a set up like that for my 40 Ford but those cars have a huge problem with hood hinge bind when closing so I'm not sure if I will do it or not.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Look great...Jim

Thanks Jim

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

That looks awesome! I'm really thinking about getting a set up like that for my 40 Ford but those cars have a huge problem with hood hinge bind when closing so I'm not sure if I will do it or not.

I know on these AD truck the factory hood springs can be problematic and cause other hood fitment challenges. These worked great and are very strong. They can hold the hood open partially as well which is nice if you don't want to open the hood all of the way to show the engine compartment.

Marc

[youngrodder]

Each day that passes, I'm closer to driving the "Family Truckster". I ran the motor the other day and let it reach temp. This reveled to me a few small coolant leaks due to incorrect gaskets on the cross over tube as well as collector leaks in the exhaust. I also detected a valve cover leak. My fans kicks on at the correct temp so that was a positive. I have been working on those fixes as well as rebleeding the brakes.

I have my license plate and insurance. I have a 7:30 am appointment on Friday to get an alignment and AC charged.

The final thrash is on.....Today might be a great day for a trip around the neighborhood.

A few teaser pics for ya....

Marc

[Tempest67]

looks great, these 'teaser' photos have me wanting to see more.

I hate leaks, and it will dirty that pretty motor yours.


I put a 'used' aluminum Weiand water pump on my motor and it had a slight leak in the valve, as coolant was running down the lower rad hose and dripping on the garage floor. Ordered a new one and put it on last week. lesson learned, for $45, I should have put on a new one from the start.


keep us posted, we are all waiting

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

looks great, these 'teaser' photos have me wanting to see more.

I hate leaks, and it will dirty that pretty motor yours.


I put a 'used' aluminum Weiand water pump on my motor and it had a slight leak in the valve, as coolant was running down the lower rad hose and dripping on the garage floor. Ordered a new one and put it on last week. lesson learned, for $45, I should have put on a new one from the start.


keep us posted, we are all waiting

Thanks. Yeah I don't like leaks either.. I think I have them fixed. This is part of the reason I have been patient leaving the Suburban up on my work stands for so long. Much easier to trouble shoot and fix/debug issues. I realized I can't drive it up on stands tho....

Marc

[mongocanfly]

I like it Marc..!!!...

[NorCalGal]

Sweet

[6DoF]

i tried to get my PA plate and title ... but i have to have a certified weight slip for truck. how do i drive a bare cab to get weighed? think they'll put 450lbs on the title?

the plate and frame are so smooth and clean! nice contrast to the name

[8man]

Congrats! Truck looks great.