Best, longest lasting frame paint

[Jl8806]

I'm having the frame and rear axle sand blasted so they should be completely rust free, I've read for sure to use an epoxy primer but what about paint? The only other frame I've ever did I just used farm implement paint, I got rid of the truck shortly after so I have no idea how it held up...

[mongocanfly]

i sanblasted, then epoxy,then rustoleum on my frame

[dfosh]

If you want it to look like factory black use two coats SPI black epoxy.

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by dfosh

If you want it to look like factory black use two coats SPI black epoxy.

Yep and you’re dun!

[mongocanfly]

kinda wish I had gone that direction with the spi...maybe next time

[Jl8806]

I'd like to go with a top coat of something with a little gloss, what would y'all recommend? Also when I get it back from sand blasting would it be ok if I shot it with some primer to keep any rust away until I had everything done to where I was ready for the final paint?

[nsb29]

If you prim it and let it sit you will have to scuff it before paint. That’s a lot of work, use an epoxy primer and then paint within the window of the primer you’re using for a Chemical bond it will save you a lot of work. Spi has more of a gloss than original I recommend it for an epoxy primer if you want it shiny you can top coat it

[Jl8806]

So if I use spi epoxy how soon should I put a top coat on?

[mongocanfly]

The tech sheet says 2-18 hrs....http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.ph...-06-2013.2427/
My epoxy had 12-24 hrs but I did mine at 12

[dfosh]

The book I have says you have up to seven days to paint . Google SPI epoxy.

[mongocanfly]

Is this not talking about paint(base)?...
"the best application of base is within 2-18 hours (no sanding is needed within this time frame)."

[nsb29]

I think it makes a difference if it was reduced or unreduced, on all my body panels I used slick sand and and they recommended 24/48 hours or longer. I didn’t top coat frame parts. I figured you had a window of 1 to 7 days when unreduced I would call them an clarify it

[Jl8806]

What stores carry spi?

[mongocanfly]

i think you order direct from SPI

[Jl8806]

Im getting a lot closer to being ready for paint, there's some areas that I know that sand blaster won't be able to get to like down inside the main suspension crossmember and in behind all the mounts, I'm assuming it should come back pretty rust free but would y'all recommend shooting the entire frame with a rust encapsulator before primer or just the area's I mentioned, or not at all?

[Jrainman]

I would say read or ask about doing this from the primer or epoxy manufacture you intend on using ,they all seem to have there opinins when covering bare metal with there spacific products. If you are using SPI epoxy ,I would give Barry a call at SPI .

[KMC3420]

Sandblasting is quite effective at reaching nooks and crannies, so I would say you would be surprised how clean it will be after, given your blaster does a good job. Regardless of the situation, bare metal needs an epoxy primer, from there you can top coat if desired. SPI epoxy doesn’t have to be topcoated when using in non UV locations like your frame or inner fenders. It’s very tough primer, and lays down with a bit of gloss.
Below is a fender cup patch I just sprayed with SPI black epoxy primer.

[nsb29]

SPI recommends Ospho if you’re going to use something

[Macdaddy1]

My painter uses Tamco chassis paint. It has a gloss and looks really good on the frame. he also uses their underhood paint for the inner fenders and such as it has a satin finish to it.

[Jl8806]

How much do y'all think I will need to do the frame and rear axle? 1 quart? Gallon?

[Macdaddy1]

If you are going to give it several coats you will need a minimum of 2 quarts.

[1972ochre4x4]

I ordered 1 gallon of spi direct from them...call them they are very helpful
(Trying to figure out how to post a picture)

[1972ochre4x4]

Picture

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by 1972ochre4x4

Picture

Looks good

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by nsb29

SPI recommends Ospho if you’re going to use something

Only if you neutralize it first. They would rather you didn't if you can abrade, or sand the rust of with the correct moh's surface finish.

It's is a last ditch attempt to fix something that needs to be addressed another way.