valve trane issues

[anew4961]

i have a big block 402 it has a mild roller cam with roller lifters roller rocker 1.75 arms new stuts and locks i adjusted valves according to manufactures specs spin push rod until it stops turning then tighten 1/2 turn .it struggles to run thought lifters may be pumped up to tight and wont bleed down need someone elses thoughts on this issue. never had this problenm before

[geezer#99]

Don’t spin them, wiggle them. Just enough to take the slack out.
A knuckledragger like me can spin em with the spring fully compressed. LOL!
Try that and set them at 1/4 turn to start.
If it’s much better then do the last 1/4 turn.

[Bigdav160]

You want to remove the play. The 'spinning' technique can be tricky like geezer said. I move the push rod up and down until that play is nearly gone then turn them. Once I feel the spring pressure I know I am at zero lash. Are you using the EOIC method?

[AussieinNC]

Are the lifters hydraulic or solid? Sounds more like a solid follower cam to me...

I dont ever run them down 1/4 or 1/2 turn after they stop wriggling....

Set them all to a gap 12 thou and start the engine....they may be noisy but at least you wont have over tightened them....

If the engine starts with the 12 thou gap and is quiet, you have a solid lifter cam...

If it doesnt quieten down once it is warmed up, the lifters have pumped up and will take some time to bleed down.....

Take one rocker cover off, once engine is warm...start the engine and run down a few rockers one at a time on that side...if they quieten down, shut down the engine and replace the rocker cover. Repeat on other side...

Note: Put some cardboard over the headers to stop oil smoke etc...remove once done...

Let us know how you go...

[anew4961]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Are the lifters hydraulic or solid? Sounds more like a solid follower cam to me...

I dont ever run them down 1/4 or 1/2 turn after they stop wriggling....

Set them all to a gap 12 thou and start the engine....they may be noisy but at least you wont have over tightened them....

If the engine starts with the 12 thou gap and is quiet, you have a solid lifter cam...

If it doesnt quieten down once it is warmed up, the lifters have pumped up and will take some time to bleed down.....

Take one rocker cover off, once engine is warm...start the engine and run down a few rockers one at a time on that side...if they quieten down, shut down the engine and replace the rocker cover. Repeat on other side...

Note: Put some cardboard over the headers to stop oil smoke etc...remove once done...

Let us know how you go...

its a hydraulic lifter cam

[AussieinNC]

Then
Set them all to a gap 12 thou and start the engine....they may be noisy but at least you wont have over tightened them....

Take one rocker cover off, once engine is warm...start the engine and run down a few rockers one at a time on that side...if they quieten down, shut down the engine and replace the rocker cover. Repeat on other side...

Note: Put some cardboard over the headers to stop oil smoke etc...remove once done...

What weight oil do you have in the engine?

[RichardJ]

Bigdav160 Ask

>> Are you using the EOIC method? <<

You need to respond.

[anew4961]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

Bigdav160 Ask

>> Are you using the EOIC method? <<

You need to respond.

what is eoic method

[Daves70]

I have the retro hydraulic roller lifters in my small block. I've found that they bleed down pretty easy and will rattle pretty good on startup. If I run 30 weight oil they will have trouble pumping up. I run 40 weight now and when set the lash l'm very careful because the spring load in the lifter is almost zero. I think it's common with these aftermarket roller lifters.

[AussieinNC]

EOIC Method...

To adjust valve lash, be it with a hydraulic or mechanical cam, you need to have the lifter on the heel or base circle of the camshaft lobe. To get there, use the exhaust opening and intake closing method (EO/IC). The lifters do not need to be primed, or otherwise force fed with oil, but some engine builders will soak lifters before engine assembly. Just be sure to use plenty of cam lube on the lifters before you get started.

Starting with cylinder No. 1 (usually the head that is farthest forward on the block is No. 1) with the valve cover off, rotate the engine until the exhaust lifter begins to move upward.
This is the point at which the exhaust valve is opening (EO), meaning the piston is through with the power stroke, and it’s about to begin the exhaust stroke.
At this point, the intake valve is closed and the lifter is on the base circle of the camshaft and can be adjusted.
To adjust lash with hydraulic lifters, simply grab the pushrod and back off the rocker-arm adjusting nut until you feel play between the pushrod and the rocker arm.
Turn the rocker arm adjusting nut while rotating the pushrod until there is no more play between the pushrod and the rocker arm, then tighten the adjusting nut one quarter turn.
That’s it, you’re done.
To adjust the exhaust lash, turn the engine over until the exhaust valve has completed its lift cycle and the intake valve begins to close (IC). Now, the exhaust lifter is on the base circle because the piston is finishing the intake stroke and about to begin compression.
Set the lash on the exhaust valve and you’re done on cyl #1.
This needs to be done for each cylinder.

Set order 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2....

1,3,5,7 front to back drivers side
2,4,6,8, front to back passengers side

[anew4961]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

EOIC Method...

To adjust valve lash, be it with a hydraulic or mechanical cam, you need to have the lifter on the heel or base circle of the camshaft lobe. To get there, use the exhaust opening and intake closing method (EO/IC). The lifters do not need to be primed, or otherwise force fed with oil, but some engine builders will soak lifters before engine assembly. Just be sure to use plenty of cam lube on the lifters before you get started.

Starting with cylinder No. 1 (usually the head that is farthest forward on the block is No. 1) with the valve cover off, rotate the engine until the exhaust lifter begins to move upward.
This is the point at which the exhaust valve is opening (EO), meaning the piston is through with the power stroke, and it’s about to begin the exhaust stroke.
At this point, the intake valve is closed and the lifter is on the base circle of the camshaft and can be adjusted.
To adjust lash with hydraulic lifters, simply grab the pushrod and back off the rocker-arm adjusting nut until you feel play between the pushrod and the rocker arm.
Turn the rocker arm adjusting nut while rotating the pushrod until there is no more play between the pushrod and the rocker arm, then tighten the adjusting nut one quarter turn.
That’s it, you’re done.
To adjust the exhaust lash, turn the engine over until the exhaust valve has completed its lift cycle and the intake valve begins to close (IC). Now, the exhaust lifter is on the base circle because the piston is finishing the intake stroke and about to begin compression.
Set the lash on the exhaust valve and you’re done on cyl #1.
This needs to be done for each cylinder.

Set order 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2....

1,3,5,7 front to back drivers side
2,4,6,8, front to back passengers side

thats what i did but i tightened all of them 1/2 turn maybe thats the oroblem i will try that and see what happens thanks allen

[anew4961]

thanks for all the tips i re adjusted valves today not using turning method but the up and down movement only turned them down 1/4 turn pures like a kitten
roller lifters must not have a lot of free play

[AussieinNC]

Really glad you are back on the road again....

Older hydraulic flat cam lifters could be pulled down 1/2 a turn and just bled down with a bit of running....these new hydraulic roller lifters have only a small travel limit before bottoming out....

Most times I will just nip them down a little after they stop rattling....been doing them that way for a long time...

Safe travels...

[anew4961]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Really glad you are back on the road again....

Older hydraulic flat cam lifters could be pulled down 1/2 a turn and just bled down with a bit of running....these new hydraulic roller lifters have only a small travel limit before bottoming out....

Most times I will just nip them down a little after they stop rattling....been doing them that way for a long time...

Safe travels...

yep things are a lot diffrent now than they were 30 years ago whe i was building a lot of engines for high performance guess im slipping in my old age

[AussieinNC]

Originally Posted by anew4961

yep things are a lot diffrent now than they were 30 years ago whe i was building a lot of engines for high performance guess im slipping in my old age

Never getting old here...am blessed every morning that I wake up on the right side of the daisies...

And ya aint slippin mate...its just another learning curve...