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09-29-2015, 01:01 PM | #1 |
Rollin' Old Skool
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Hattiesburg, MS
Posts: 5,371
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Replacing steel brake/fuel lines
Anybody used these? Getting ready to replace lines on my Tahoe, & I'm debating between the Poly-Armour and NiCopp. From what I've read, both seem to have good reviews. However, the NiCopp (nickel, copper, iron, manganese) is supposed to be easier to bend & offers superior corrosion/rust protection. The only con would be that they cost more. The Poly-Armour is coated steel, which is also supposed to be relatively easy to bend & offers good corrosion/rust protection. From what I understand, many of the parts stores are now carrying this stuff. I have no experience with either, so any input is greatly appreciated!
Poly-Armour video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XADAMp4CswM Poly-Armour description: http://agscompany.com/product-catego...s/poly-armour/ NiCopp description: http://agscompany.com/product-catego...-lines/nicopp/
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_____________________________________________ Phillip My Build threads: 1966 Chevy C-10 "Black Betty" shortbed, fleetside, BBW, 327 V8/ Powerglide (under construction) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=betty 1997 Chevy Tahoe, 2dr/2wd, mild custom (Daily driver) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=601142 Pics: '66 C-10 https://flic.kr/s/aHsjHWD4h9 '97 Tahoe https://flic.kr/s/aHsjGZ7wKP '93 C-1500 https://flic.kr/s/aHskxdpdnQ '88 S-10 Blazer https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYGx4Md Previous Rides: 1993 Chevy S-10 ext. cab, 4.3L, 4/5 drop (Sold) 1993 Chevy C-1500 short/step Retro-Rod (Sold) 1988 S-10 Blazer 2dr/2wd mild custom (Sold) |
09-29-2015, 01:22 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: .
Posts: 2,178
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Re: Replacing steel brake/fuel lines
I use poly armor on everything at my shop except for 99-07 trucks.
The stuff will last forever as long as you don't damage to coating. I haven't bought it by the roll, I buy it in 72"lenths. I have no experience with the NiCopp. |
09-29-2015, 08:37 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,302
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Re: Replacing steel brake/fuel lines
I used the NiCopp stuff on my 70 Suburban build. Easy as heck to bend and flare. Expensive but supposed to last a long time. One issue is if you want it to look original it is impossible to get a straight line like a stock piece of steel line. I got a coil at my local CarQuest to cut down on cost. It is probably even cheaper online. I ran an almost continuous piece on my Sub frame from rear axle to booster until I tripped over the end and kinked it.
It will be my next big job on my 97 Silverado. Most of my present lines are replacement pieces because the originals started rusting away before the truck was 6 years old. Paul
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"You know that little thing in your head that keeps you from saying things you shouldn't? Yeah well, I don't have one of those" 1969 Mercury Cougar Standard 4 speed 1969 Mercury Cougar XR7 convertible 1970 4WD Chevrolet Suburban 1997 4WD Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab Short Bed (purchased new January 1997) |
10-03-2015, 12:01 PM | #4 |
Rollin' Old Skool
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Hattiesburg, MS
Posts: 5,371
|
Re: Replacing steel brake/fuel lines
Thanks guys, I think I'm gonna try the NiCopp. Do ya'll know what size the fuel lines are that run along the frame rail? also, do you know the size of the brake line running across the crossmember?
__________________
_____________________________________________ Phillip My Build threads: 1966 Chevy C-10 "Black Betty" shortbed, fleetside, BBW, 327 V8/ Powerglide (under construction) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=betty 1997 Chevy Tahoe, 2dr/2wd, mild custom (Daily driver) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=601142 Pics: '66 C-10 https://flic.kr/s/aHsjHWD4h9 '97 Tahoe https://flic.kr/s/aHsjGZ7wKP '93 C-1500 https://flic.kr/s/aHskxdpdnQ '88 S-10 Blazer https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYGx4Md Previous Rides: 1993 Chevy S-10 ext. cab, 4.3L, 4/5 drop (Sold) 1993 Chevy C-1500 short/step Retro-Rod (Sold) 1988 S-10 Blazer 2dr/2wd mild custom (Sold) |
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