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Old 09-29-2015, 01:01 PM   #1
likaroc13
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Hattiesburg, MS
Posts: 5,371
Replacing steel brake/fuel lines

Anybody used these? Getting ready to replace lines on my Tahoe, & I'm debating between the Poly-Armour and NiCopp. From what I've read, both seem to have good reviews. However, the NiCopp (nickel, copper, iron, manganese) is supposed to be easier to bend & offers superior corrosion/rust protection. The only con would be that they cost more. The Poly-Armour is coated steel, which is also supposed to be relatively easy to bend & offers good corrosion/rust protection. From what I understand, many of the parts stores are now carrying this stuff. I have no experience with either, so any input is greatly appreciated!

Poly-Armour video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XADAMp4CswM

Poly-Armour description:
http://agscompany.com/product-catego...s/poly-armour/


NiCopp description:
http://agscompany.com/product-catego...-lines/nicopp/
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My Build threads:
1966 Chevy C-10 "Black Betty"

shortbed, fleetside, BBW, 327 V8/ Powerglide (under construction)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=betty

1997 Chevy Tahoe, 2dr/2wd, mild custom (Daily driver)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=601142

Pics:
'66 C-10 https://flic.kr/s/aHsjHWD4h9
'97 Tahoe https://flic.kr/s/aHsjGZ7wKP
'93 C-1500 https://flic.kr/s/aHskxdpdnQ
'88 S-10 Blazer https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYGx4Md

Previous Rides:
1993 Chevy S-10 ext. cab, 4.3L, 4/5 drop (Sold)
1993 Chevy C-1500 short/step Retro-Rod (Sold)
1988 S-10 Blazer 2dr/2wd mild custom (Sold)
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Old 09-29-2015, 01:22 PM   #2
95 S_Trucker
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Re: Replacing steel brake/fuel lines

I use poly armor on everything at my shop except for 99-07 trucks.

The stuff will last forever as long as you don't damage to coating. I haven't bought it by the roll, I buy it in 72"lenths.

I have no experience with the NiCopp.
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Old 09-29-2015, 08:37 PM   #3
pwdcougar
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Re: Replacing steel brake/fuel lines

I used the NiCopp stuff on my 70 Suburban build. Easy as heck to bend and flare. Expensive but supposed to last a long time. One issue is if you want it to look original it is impossible to get a straight line like a stock piece of steel line. I got a coil at my local CarQuest to cut down on cost. It is probably even cheaper online. I ran an almost continuous piece on my Sub frame from rear axle to booster until I tripped over the end and kinked it.

It will be my next big job on my 97 Silverado. Most of my present lines are replacement pieces because the originals started rusting away before the truck was 6 years old.

Paul
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1969 Mercury Cougar Standard 4 speed
1969 Mercury Cougar XR7 convertible
1970 4WD Chevrolet Suburban
1997 4WD Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab Short Bed (purchased new January 1997)
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Old 10-03-2015, 12:01 PM   #4
likaroc13
Rollin' Old Skool
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Hattiesburg, MS
Posts: 5,371
Re: Replacing steel brake/fuel lines

Thanks guys, I think I'm gonna try the NiCopp. Do ya'll know what size the fuel lines are that run along the frame rail? also, do you know the size of the brake line running across the crossmember?
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_____________________________________________
Phillip

My Build threads:
1966 Chevy C-10 "Black Betty"

shortbed, fleetside, BBW, 327 V8/ Powerglide (under construction)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=betty

1997 Chevy Tahoe, 2dr/2wd, mild custom (Daily driver)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=601142

Pics:
'66 C-10 https://flic.kr/s/aHsjHWD4h9
'97 Tahoe https://flic.kr/s/aHsjGZ7wKP
'93 C-1500 https://flic.kr/s/aHskxdpdnQ
'88 S-10 Blazer https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYGx4Md

Previous Rides:
1993 Chevy S-10 ext. cab, 4.3L, 4/5 drop (Sold)
1993 Chevy C-1500 short/step Retro-Rod (Sold)
1988 S-10 Blazer 2dr/2wd mild custom (Sold)
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