suspension

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by Richard

Good recommendations by 57taskforce and sweetk30. By to look of your front springs they are of the stiffer variety. I am installing crossover on my truck. It is nice but I do not think it is necessary without a flexy suspension. I will have a 4 link with coilovers. As far as the swaybar, removing it would help as much as adding the disconnect kit. Obviously removing it is cheaper than adding the disconnect kit. Removing it costs nothing but time. You can put it back in.

To add to that, if you’ve indeed got a set of stiff front springs, which I agree it does look that way, the front sway bar likely isn’t doing that much for you anyway. The spring rates are probably high enough that body roll isn’t as much of a concern. I know it’s a bit of a debated topic but Really I don’t see the need for them in most leaf spring front end applications. There’s a few /situations like with a heavy over roof camper or something similar where the sways are helpful. The 67-72 K trucks never had them and I’ve never driven one and said, “damn I really need a sway bar”. With coil springs or IFS they are a pretty important part of highway manners for sure.

[4u2nv]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

To add to that, if you’ve indeed got a set of stiff front springs, which I agree it does look that way, the front sway bar likely isn’t doing that much for you anyway. The spring rates are probably high enough that body roll isn’t as much of a concern. I know it’s a bit of a debated topic but Really I don’t see the need for them in most leaf spring front end applications. There’s a few /situations like with a heavy over roof camper or something similar where the sways are helpful. The 67-72 K trucks never had them and I’ve never driven one and said, “damn I really need a sway bar”. With coil springs or IFS they are a pretty important part of highway manners for sure.

Oh they are stiff, I'm surprised the front windshield is still in it , LOL

[4u2nv]

About the steering again , could it be that someone ahead of me has the amount of turns on the steering wheel each way wrong , if you know what I mean .

[sweetk30]

adjuster on drag link / pitman to axle arm is for centering the steering wheel only .

the problem with lifted stock push/pull steering is the limit one direction gets less and less the taller you go . and to magnify the problem start flexing the suspension and it gets even worse to the point of maxed out steering and no way to make it turn .

this is why crossover conversion is the best if taller than 5-6" range and any real off road use .

[4u2nv]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

adjuster on drag link / pitman to axle arm is for centering the steering wheel only .

the problem with lifted stock push/pull steering is the limit one direction gets less and less the taller you go . and to magnify the problem start flexing the suspension and it gets even worse to the point of maxed out steering and no way to make it turn .

this is why crossover conversion is the best if taller than 5-6" range and any real off road use .

Thanx, you have been a great help

[sweetk30]

no problem . been playing with lifted squares since 2001 ish

and i read a lot and ask a lot and remember a bit here and there and try and pass it along .

[Richard]

Try this- turn steering lock to lock counting the turns. May be easier putting front axle on stands. Depending on the box installed should be around 3.5-4.5 turns. Position steering travel in the middle, ignore steering wheel position at this time. Adjust draglink until wheels are pointed straight. You should be able to pull the wheel from the column and re-position to make it straight. With the short draglink angled down bump steer will be more pronounced and you will loose additional steering one way at full droop or full compression. Most likely fine for highway driving.

[sweetk30]

Originally Posted by Richard

Try this- You should be able to pull the wheel from the column and re-position to make it straight. .

you have never had the wheel off then have you ? gm indexed a few items so there all playing off the master spline spot . yes you can move the wheel but the horn button pass threw wont line up and the lock plate cant be moved easy .

its just the nature of modifications one thing leads to another .

[57taskforce]

The thing I ran into in the past with reindexing the steering wheel is i happened to have too close to tripping the canceling cam for the signal switch when pointed straight. It’s really irritating when you set the signal lever going straight and move the wheel only a few degrees in one direction and have it cancel the signal lights. I fixed that real quick I can assure you.

[4u2nv]

I have never had the steering wheel off , but that doesn't mean someone before me hasn't , when I got the truck the horn didn't work so I went at that and got it working but the left turn signal won't cancel out .
When the steering wheel is turned to the right it will squeal out on the pump way sooner than the other way and if not careful on the way I go about it I will end up doing a 2 point turn.