71' suburban 4x4

[vectorit]

As long as the rods are still in place, just stick the key in and unlock it.
It appears to be in the locked position to me.

[infinite-foamies]

Okay thank you, I guess until I get keys made I will have to open it from the inside.

[vectorit]

Just find a capable lock smith in your area, check to see with them if you bring in the cylinder they can make a key from it.

If they say no problem.

Then take the button mechanism out, along with all of the other key locks from the doors and bring it to them. They should be able to set you up with one key to work in the tail gate and all the door locks.

Or... Buy the new door locks so that you have a new key for the doors, then bring in the button lock from the gate and have them make it work with your new door key.

[infinite-foamies]

So how about an update?

I took the front clip off with an engine hoist.

Got the seat and floor mats out. Got all the body bolts undone, determined the engine does not run(think the starter is not turning fast enough). Need to disconnect the vent tubes that go into the body as well as the speedometer cable and then the body is ready to come off.

First I am building a rotisserie for the rust repair and rustproofing the underside. My dad is buying the materials for the rotisserie and will get to keep it for his shop but I get to do all the welding as his arm is in a cast.

Got the locking hubs off so I can put some Warn Premiums in. Will be doing at least rotors, calipers, pads, wheel cylinders and probably drums as well as ball joints and at least look at the bearings and races.

Plan to dustless blast the frame then epoxy coat it.





Has anyone determined the best place to buy replacement sheet metal from? LMC, Brothers, etc. It needs the bottom 4" of sheet metal all around, and possibly the passenger front door.

Also debating on what to do for the audio system. Don't want to go to crazy but want a nice balanced system.

What does everyone think of dynamat? How about a universal floormat company?

I found captains chairs on Craigslist with swivels that I plan to put in in place of the bench and hopefully use the material off the bench to redo the front headliner and recover the dash pad. It rained so much Rat Sh¡t I thought I was going to get Ghonoherpasyphilaids.

[vectorit]

Looks like you have been busy!
Sheet metal from what I have read and seen, is made by 1 or maybe 2 companies. So who you order it from, it will be coming from the same manufacturer. Just be ready for a good dose of frustration in getting new sheet metal to fit like OE from 1971.

I used DynaMat, and I am pleased with it. Though it was expensive... I basically purchased 3 "trunk kits" to do my burb. I did the metal floor, and I applied it to the door panels.

If I were you, I would avoid tackling mechanical upgrades while doing body work. You don't want to start multiple expensive upgrades at once, since you can easily become overwhelmed with cash flying out of your pocket and not much to show for your expenses.

Keep your rolling chassis intact if you can, but power wash, scrub, sand blast, powder coat, put back together as soon as possible. I did this while body work was being done to keep me busy, and when the body was done I had a clean chassis to bolt the body back onto.

Get the body all put together, then pick you next big restoration phase.
In my case, I worked on wiring, glass, weather stripping, door hardware, and then gauge panel.

While you are buying, collecting all the many parts to do this. You could be working on the engine/trans/xfercase, and by the time you are done with getting the body and basic interior stuff done your drive train can be installed.

Then you are looking at getting the exhaust system done, cables, plumbing, cooling system, and brakes. Brakes alone will set you back a bit...

All I am saying is. Look at this like eating an elephant, because that's what it will seem like restoring a Suburban. So it is all about small bites, extended over a period of time. Bite off more than you can chew, and you will find yourself easily overwhelmed.

At this point in your restoration, the last thing I would be asking about is what kind of stereo you should consider installing...

[infinite-foamies]

The reason I am preparing for the drive train swap is because if you have the body off the frame that is the time to do it.

I should clarify I don't want a sound insulation but a thermal insulation.

My dad seems to think I should take the frame down to just the frame to blast it...

This will be my third vehicle doing an overhaul on the whole brake system and that actually hasn't been too bad; rotors are $40, calipers $15, pads $20(all per side)

I actually was surprised but this exhaust system is mint! Does anyone need a true dual exhaust for a 350? I don't need duals or mufflers for the swap.

I am not extremely worried about the audio system but the best time to install it is while the interior is out and a good balanced system takes a lot of thought.

Eating an elephant is an awesome analogy!

[infinite-foamies]

Got the speedometer cable disconnected, Working on the Emergency brake cable but I am not 100% sure on how to get it through the firewall.

Going to summer nationals tomorrow at English town and the steel for the rotisserie should be in Monday so that is next on the list. On the side I am preparing my dads 1959 Jaguar MK I to take my girlfriend to prom in.

I am also debating on cross drilled & slotted brake rotors with ceramic pads... Brake performance has a lifetime warranty including warping but its an extra ~$120.

[infinite-foamies]

So not much has happened on the Suburban but it has officially been named the "Nacho Grande" After Roadkill's Macho Grande.

My father and I got his 59' Jaguar MK I running and the caliper halves redone, just built the calipers.

I am almost done welding up the rotisserie and hoping I can get the body off sometime this week and get the frame sent out next week for blasting.

[RANDY COX]

Hey just saw your Burban, I saw it was from Va, I remember seeing one on CL in Roanoke Va, I still miss mine...

[infinite-foamies]

It may be the same one. It came with roof racks.

Started documenting where everything goes on the frame. Deicing I will at the minimum do a full tear down/re-build on the transmission and t-case as well as a twin stick conversion on the t-case.

I have been toying with the idea(which I read about somewhere) of running a tcase in reverse as an overdrive unit. The output shaft from the tcase used for 4x4 goes into the output shaft of the OD tcase and its input shaft goes to your rear end. When in lo gear you get overdrive. The issues here are A. the np205 isnt meant to spin at a high RPM in LO for a long period of time, and lubrication, to name a few so I probably won't do this.

Also debating on doing a custom floor shifter for the transmission with a manual valve body. The only reason I might not is because I do like a somewhat stock look and I need to be able to haul a 10 1/2' long model airplane fuselage.

[infinite-foamies]

I know I haven't posted in a while... because I have been working about 60 hours per week plus another 60 per week on the burb.

I am hopefully building the axles and T-case tomorrow as well as putting the brake and fuel lines on the chassis(if they come in) and priming/painting the leafs.

Does anyone know if the OE tank is galvanized?

Don't worry, pictures will come.

[Cumminpwr11]

Just throwing a suggestion out there. Go with a 47rh transmission. It is the the hydraulic version of the 47re which is a little weaker (factory built) than a 48re. You can find and build a very stout 47rh for around the same price of a 48re and the stand alone controllers.

I get 24mpg out of my 1st Gen 6bt with my built 47rh and 3.55 gears and 33's

Keep us posted on your progress. I love the 4bta.

Chris

[infinite-foamies]

The first of the repair panels going in:


Drivers Rocker going in(sorry not sure how to rotate):


Passenger rocker and fitting floor pan:


Taught myself to TIG Stainless and made an exhaust from 3" 409 and some Mandrel bends plus a custom v-band flange to attach to the turbo and REAL exhaust hangers with rubber! :


Kevlar exhaust wrap where it's close to the T-case and floor:


If I previously said I have a 47RE, I was mistaken it is a 47RH. When I first got the engine running the TC had pressure against it that pushed it into the Front pump seal which welded itself to the TC and spun in the bore. Swapped a front pump from my parts tranny with new bushing and seal and had to grind a bit off the TC:


Doors being hung. The white one is staying as it is straight from vintagechevytruckparts in Fremont CA, great guys to deal with! I luckily had a road trip to CA from NY for work so shipping was $0. The green door is mockup as I am modding them to be able to pull the pins and pull the doors off for beach riding. The 3rd door hinges are such that the door does not need to be modified but the fronts have to be channeled:


Front clip on for mockup (I have rust free fenders) but had to take measurement for custom grill, Also need to play around with the heaterbox and do soem major wiring which will be easier with the fenders off:


My road find taillight guards:


The grill area will be covered by Custom Stainless perforated sheet that I am CNCing. It will also cover the headlights which will be spaced out by Stainless 3/16 tubing:


Much more to come, doing a custom refridgeration system with dual compressors that will double as A/C and for a small fridge I am installing. Does anyone know if a capillary tube and an evaporation valve are interchangable?

Next is Cruise control, I am running a vacuum servo off an 8th gen F350 diesel as I have one laying around. Making a custom circuit so I don't need a computer that will have very rudimentary control but will have a brake safety circuit.

I am adding power windows with motors that have a spline that go over where your handle once went. Making a custom adapter that will allow me to sink this motors spline right against the metal of the door and then I am making a custom Momentary rotary switch that will sit over the spline and allow me to use my stock crank handle as the switch handle! Also have a custom circuit for this which will allow me to control all windows from the driver seat. Wondering how I will handle pulling the doors off will all of these wires? Well you will have to wait and see, though I am putting speakers under the center of the dash to save on some wires.

Next up is the seat pedestals... I have seats from a conversion van that need to rotate, buying the swivles new they are $180/ea so if anyone knows of a cheaper source please let me know. Bought a swivel for a boat but it seems to be too flimsy for use in a vehicle...

Next up, I acquired a factory rook rack that I will be repairing thanks to some idiots mistakes... What does everyone do for sealing where the roof rack bolts up? I will also be adding cab marker lights more so as a way to help hide where the antenna and light wires go in.

I will also be mounting pioneer tools to the roof such as a pick, axe, shovel, and hi-lift jack.

Does anyone coat the roof with a coating like on a camper to help with the R-value? speaking of R-value what is a good thing to line the inside? Thinking using dyna-plate, the floor stuff they have as I don't really plan to use a carpet per say but maybe just floor mats, but I want something I can hose out after wheeling.

Sorry this is such a huge post, there is stuff I forgot and it has been a VERY long time since I have given an update.

[infinite-foamies]

Well guys it wont let me edit, but here is the picture of the exhaust wrap:

[Average Joe]

Wow! You have been busy. I like all the creature comforts you have planned. Nice work too!

[infinite-foamies]

Got a hold of some seat pedestals from M&M U pull it on Friday. Got an awesome deal and they also have slides so I will not have adjustability forward and back

Tested my Cobra 29 LX BT on Saturday and the NOAA channels are very nice.

I should be CNC'ing the grill Tuesday, I get one chance so hopefully it works out. Not sure if I touched on this but it will be similar to the General Mayhem but with a nice Stainless surprise.

I am considering putting cab handles on... Thoughts on these?

I am also adding Cab marker lights as this will give me a place to run RF/Power to the roof rack.

[infinite-foamies]

Another thing I forgot to mention is stainless cable steps for getting into the cab so when they hit rocks they just swing out of the way. I am also planning aome sort of handle to help pull yourself in. Thinking of a rope handle or something that attaches to the drip rail.

[infinite-foamies]

Okay guys I am having a debockle with adding A/C. I picked up a factory dash setup, but my research shows that running the factory Evap core on R134a even with a modern condenser will mean I will have luke cool air.

Anyone know of an R134a Evap core that fits the factory heater box?

[notchbackgta]

I thought it was the POA or the orifice tube that really controls that? The evap cores are all very similar, the liquid coolant goes in and boils off, there isn't a lot that can be different, but I may be wrong

[RedRoad]

You need to recalibrate the POA valve and run a true parallel flow condenser. If running the stock or piccalo (sp?) style in a hot climate you need to run an electric fan to keep the air cool when airflow over the condenser is minimal (slow speeds, traffic).

[infinite-foamies]

I have to eliminate the lever type cable control for the air/vents on my 1971 K10 Suburban project to make room for electronics. My goal is for the new setup to not protrude off the inside of the dash more than an inch.

Choke cables are cheap off Amazon so that seems like a good place to start. I am also adding A/C and a re-circulation control as stock did not have one. I should be able to better control the temperature.

Of course I can't simply just make a plate to mount the cables and fan switches, so I am 3D printing it such that text describing each control will be back-lit. Now instead of having text just lit up that tells you to push the cable for this and pull for that, I am 'simply' going to illuminate for example the 'hot' text when the temp door is on heat, and illuminate the 'cool' text when it is on A/C, however these are not on/off settings, they are linear. So my plan is to hook Linear Pot's to the cables and have the illumination fade with the control of the cable.

Here is the current drawing:
I am going to play with the slot as I am also adding Rear A/C and want a separate fan control.

[infinite-foamies]

I have found a modern A/C evaporator core than based on the dimensions will fit in the factory heater box, I will update with more info and do an A/C thread when I have confirmation. My goal is to just run one evap core with all R134a parts and a well sealed cab/re-circulation setup and not need a second core.

Progress is slow as this is finals week. Not sure if I mentioned this but my buddy that was over helping Fab'd up a custom intake plenum to use a 6bt heater grid so that is ready to go on sans gasket(s).

The one chance to cut the rest of the grille was a failure as somehow the file was an inch taller. So I am hopefully cutting the final piece tomorrow. Steel is not cheap when you don't buy a full piece

[infinite-foamies]

Well the trans in my F350 went after being rebuilt a month before so I through my Burb together in a week and test drove it 350 miles to school, made it with few issues!


I averaged 18mpg. I believe I get around 30mpg at roughly 60mph and 20mpg at roughly 72mph with rolling hills. I need to work on sound deadening, thinking of using Yoga mats because I can not afford Dynapad and/or Dynamat.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice build and sweet burb! Did you use toggle switches or a controller on the 47rh?

[infinite-foamies]

Because it got thrown together, it was quite Roadkill. Especially with the OD control. I was confused in nomenclature and only have a 46rh. I ran the OD solenoid off of key'd hot. Because my FSS was inoperative I could turn the OD off by turning the key off and keep driving, but then also lose power brakes because the day before I was scheduled to leave for school I found my vacuum pump was not creating vacuum so I grabbed an electric one from S&K Speed.

I plan to put it on a foot switch as that is how the OD is controlled in my F350 so it is basically instinctual for me.