Structures 65 Chevy C10

[63sbssbbw]

Looking good Robert
Love the cart
T

[structures]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Nice work on the dolly!! A great way to recycle from stuff laying around. I wish mine had big tires like that so I could roll it outside. I do have one question. Well you do the panel replacements or hire it out? If you do and use the cart may I make a suggestion (if you haven't already thought of it) mount the cab at the points where it bolts to the truck frame. That will give you access to the inner and outer rockers and most of the floor.
The dolly could be modified to do this as you well know.

Just a suggestion.

Here is an example:

I'm going to do as much of the work as I can. I figured I was going to need to jack it up somehow to do the rockers and floor, thanks for the feedback.

Originally Posted by Strodder

I roll it on those Harbor Freight Dollies, the put it on the lift to do the body stuff.

I would love to have a lift, but my garage is only 8' tall. Plus, I don't think I can squeeze anymore crap in there either.

Originally Posted by 63sbssbbw

Looking good Robert
Love the cart
T

Thanks

[structures]

Wish I had more to report but I tried blasting the cab on my own and it didn't go well, went thru like almost 3 50 gal drums of river sand and did probably half the cab.

I borrowed a really nice pressure pot from a friend but my 80 gal 5 hp craftsman couldn't keep up. Then I tried to supplement with my portable 30 gallon which only blew out a small hole in the bottom from the pressure differences.

There's this guy on craigslist that will come to your place and blast, he list that he's done antique cars and has pics to show. I figure if he is going to make a special trip out I might as well get all the body parts ready for blasting to make it worth his while. Which means I need to clean the shop out so I can paint. All I've been doing lately is moving stuff around.

[Real_McCoy]

This is a great build, Robert. I find the roof replacement particularly useful as I will be doing this exact procedure on my B-I-L's 66. I will be starting my 66 build in a couple of weeks. I need to get settled in my new rental shop first.

[irish1966]

Subscribed!! Nice build and I love the cart. Believe me, uneven concrete and bumpy floor surfaces play havoc with those HF wheel dollies.

A quick question about the roof removal....do u have more pics of when u were doing it? Did u just run around the drip rail with the spot weld drill? Just curious. I found some rust and I am toying around with doing the same.

[structures]

Originally Posted by Real_McCoy

This is a great build, Robert. I find the roof replacement particularly useful as I will be doing this exact procedure on my B-I-L's 66. I will be starting my 66 build in a couple of weeks. I need to get settled in my new rental shop first.

Originally Posted by irish1966

Subscribed!! Nice build and I love the cart. Believe me, uneven concrete and bumpy floor surfaces play havoc with those HF wheel dollies.

A quick question about the roof removal....do u have more pics of when u were doing it? Did u just run around the drip rail with the spot weld drill? Just curious. I found some rust and I am toying around with doing the same.

Thanks guys.

I don't have a whole lot of pics for the roof removal, but I'll explain how it went. I used a wire wheel on my angle grinder to clean out the valley. I wore a full face mask b/c little pieces of wire fly everywhere and stick you. Cleaning out the valley with a wire wheel reveals most of the spot weld locations. Some are still kind of hard to see though. I then used a auto center punch from atwoods and a few spot weld cutters from harbor freight to go around and drill out the spot welds. I went thru two spot weld cutters and I broke the tip of the punch towards the last few spot welds. It's extremely difficult to keep the spot weld cutter from walking without the center punch.

I started at the back and worked towards the front. There's a certain amount of pressure to apply when cutting the spot welds. If you push too hard you'll cut both layers and have a like a 3/8" hole thru. But if you push just hard enough thru the weld you'll get a nice pop each time the cutter goes thru the roof layer and not the cab layer.

[Gordonr1973]

I know this was an old post, but do you remember if the primer you used was a special engine / high temp primer, or if it was just regular metal primer?? I'm asking because I want to paint my engine but I can't find any high temp primer in the stores and I don't know if it is necessary or not ---- although I would think that it would be important to use if it was available.


OTE=structures;3897994]I haven't given up on this project. I have been side tracked b/c I've been redoing a bathroom in the house and it's taking up lots of time and money. This weekend I wanted to spend some time with the truck though. I spent last night and today cleaning up the engine and taking note on anything I may be missing.

I used rustoleum brand 500 deg Engine paint. This was the first I had seen Rostoleum brand engine paint, but I went with it. I have used dupli-color in the past, but after using Rustoleum now I like it over the dupli-color. The Rustoleum doesn't have near the overspray that dupli color does. And it goes on a little thicker than the dupli-color, which I like.

I saw another guy on here do up his ls engine like this and I thought it looked real nice. I decided to do mine up this way. Hope you like it.


Taped up and primered.



First I did the aluminum with Rustoleum Aluminum.



Then the block was coated with just regular Rustoleum Red.

[structures]

Originally Posted by Gordonr1973

I know this was an old post, but do you remember if the primer you used was a special engine / high temp primer, or if it was just regular metal primer?? I'm asking because I want to paint my engine but I can't find any high temp primer in the stores and I don't know if it is necessary or not ---- although I would think that it would be important to use if it was available.

Yeah it was Rustoleum Engine Primer, I got it at the local Autozone, it was with all the other engine paints.

[Strodder]

The only thing I don't like about Rustoleum is if you want to paint over it after it dries, it wrinkles the bottom coat.

[structures]

Rustoleum has that window in which you can and can't paint. Like re-coat within 1 hour or wait 48 hours. Isn't it in this time frame in which wrinkling will occur? I don't know, I'm not a paint guy, I just screw around in the garage.

[Strodder]

Yeah it is. Does it say that on the can? I never read that stuff.

[structures]

I've got a small update. I was hoping to have more done, but since it's thanksgiving morning and I can't work in the garage I thought I'd update the old build thread.

After blasting the cab sprayed most of it with an epoxy primer. I then moved to work on the right side of the lower floor.

Here is a pic of the rocker before.




Here I have the rocker opened up. Notice the rat's nest on the backside.




This is looking down on the front right side of the floor.




As I was doing a little cleaning up. The floor wall where the the lower support structure runs blew out a hole. You wouldn't believe the pile of rock hard dirt behind this. I used my shop vac to clean it out. I stuffed 3/4" DIA rubber hose on the end of my shop vac and used it to clean out the inside of the support brace. You can also see here the kick panel wall is completely gone. After I removed the lower pillar section the kick panel wall was dust.




Pretty much the same thing at the back. That hole in the back wall shouldn't be there... The thing is I was just working both areas and the metal looked okay beside the rust. It was the backside that was severely rusting out. On the front end I was working the floor with a flap wheel and the hole busted out, then on the back side I was trying to vacuum and the area out and the plastic nozzle busted right thru.

[structures]

I did pick up some parts from Kenny's Trucks here last week. He's located just south of me. It's nice to be able and stop by and see the parts you're buying before you buy.

FWD and Back RHS floor panels




RH kick panel and lower front pillar




and a RH rocker




I also did some sectioning of the floor.

[mcbassin]

Nice progress! Looks like some nice repair panels too.

[Bugeyev8]

looks exactly as mine did when I did the same repairs to my 62, keep up the good work, there will be a great feeling when you start welding the new panels on, I suggest screwing everything in place before any welding, when you cut the pillar and that much of the floor at one time they tend to sag a bit

[structures]

Originally Posted by Bugeyev8

looks exactly as mine did when I did the same repairs to my 62, keep up the good work, there will be a great feeling when you start welding the new panels on, I suggest screwing everything in place before any welding, when you cut the pillar and that much of the floor at one time they tend to sag a bit

I understand what you're saying about sagging. I really should've just put in some supports like others do, but I've been measuring and keeping an eye. I thought I'd work in little sections at a time. I haven't noticed pillar movement... but...

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Nice progress! Looks like some nice repair panels too.

I was a little disappointed with the quality at the store but decided to work with it. Then I was reading 198plus' build thread and it seemed his restamp was perfect.

I guess I've resolved to just work with what I have. I've made it this far. Just thought I'd pass on my experience and maybe somebody in the future might benefit. Maybe instead of being like me and being content you can say "hey can I see another panel?"

Pic 1: You can see the upper lip is all but missing. The holes don't line up. It's missing some of the fwd attachment flange.




Pic 2 is the underside. I'll have to slot those holes and add on some flange going to the forward of the cab.

[structures]

I've put in some sheet metal and everything is going back together on the right forward side real well. The panels although stamped wrong are working just fine. Ideally I'd like to maintain a 0.030" gap in my panels for welding but unfortunately it's difficult to get the gap consistent. I did do a sanity check and put up the rocker and also installed the door just to see how everything was fitting up. So far so good.


This is all the junk I've been vacuuming out of the under cab support structure! Just on the right side.




I put an old hose on the end of my shop vac to get as far back as I could. I need to go with a smaller diameter and longer hose on the rear support which runs the entire width of the cab. When I was spraying under coat with a 3 ft hose I kept hitting more packed in dirt wads! OH by the way shop vac is an awesome company. Bought my shop vac in dec 2006. Burned up the motor a month ago. I went to shop vacs website and they offer a 5 year warranty on their products. I plugged in my model number told them the part that was fried. They fed-ex'd another motor ass'y out no questions asked. No proof of receipt (although I had one). Got the motor in less than a week. Now the reason the motor fried is b/c of how I was using it. I didn't deserve a free motor and was willing to buy one but can't beat free! Anyway
1. do not vacuum out your fireplace with a shop vac... Stupid idea...
2. what killed the motor... do not use your shop vac as a temporary dust collector for your blast cabinet... another stupid idea. (Unless you take time to build one of those water filters from a 5 gal pail).




So far I've partially tacked in the fwd floor, welded the kicker section on, and clamped up the lower pillar replacement. This pic doesn't show it but I did fill in the lower and forward area where the panel was missing sheet metal.

[mcbassin]

Very nice work on the rust removal and repair!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Very nice work on the rust removal and repair!

x2!

[allaboutchevelles]

nice work on the 65 c-10. Im doing the exact same project right now , doing the same rust repair with the cab off the frame. cant wait to see more pics of your progress.

[allaboutchevelles]

I have been hacking up the rear cab supports to get them to fit right. Im ready to weld everything in as soon as I finish fiting that rear support in. I put the rocker on and hung the door and fender on the other day and everything seems to line up perfect. This has turned into a job trying to make these aftermarket peices fit right. Then it will be on to the next side witch want be as bad i hope.

[allaboutchevelles]

heres a pic of my short bed frame i bought for yeah> $50. minus the tires and rims, I already had those.

[198plus]

Nice work you are doing

[structures]

Thanks guys for the kind words. allaboutchevelles I like the pics. You need to start a build thread so everybody can follow!! Your work looks good to me!

[allaboutchevelles]

hey structures, how do u start a build thread.