Factory Correct Restoration Details

[toms68cst]

That top picture that Steve Haffner posted is very interesting to me as it is nearly a dead-ringer to my engine compartment. That also brings up another can of worms. The old Smog-pump vs heat riser question on 68's.

From what I can figure out 68's with automatics had heat risers and 68 manuals had smog pumps. I think there may be another set of rules for 3/4 tons and 1 ton trucks as perhaps they were not required to have emmissions controls. I am not sure though.

[burb71]

Originally Posted by toms68cst

That top picture that Steve Haffner posted is very interesting to me as it is nearly a dead-ringer to my engine compartment. That also brings up another can of worms. The old Smog-pump vs heat riser question on 68's.

From what I can figure out 68's with automatics had heat risers and 68 manuals had smog pumps. I think there may be another set of rules for 3/4 tons and 1 ton trucks as perhaps they were not required to have emmissions controls. I am not sure though.

I have two C/10 68s…
1 Big Block, Turbo 400, has smog pump but No Heat riser.
No valve on the snorkel for stove pipe.

small block 327, Turbo 400, No smog pump, has heat riser/stove pipe.

[toms68cst]

Originally Posted by burb71

I have two C/10 68s…
1 Big Block, Turbo 400, has smog pump but No Heat riser.
No valve on the snorkel for stove pipe.

small block 327, Turbo 400, No smog pump, has heat riser/stove pipe.

Interesting Burb71. Perhaps the Big blocks all got smog pumps regardless of the transmission.

[Steve Hafner]

. . . .

Here are the rest of the 68's I've saved . . .

You guys can figure it out !!!

The first one was said to be a 307.

The next two were said to be 327's.

. . . .

[jlaird]

Very interesting topic and so cool to have somebody like Keith here to contribute!

[toms68cst]

Dang, I wish I had paid attention to how all the various orange brackets had been painted originally before I stripped them all. I should have paid attention to whether there were areas that weren't painted where they bolted up to the block. That might have helped explain things.

That Middle picture of the second set that Steve Hafner posted is an older picture of my engine bay taken right after I put things back together a few years back.

That third picture of the second set looks to include a smog pump AND an AC compressor set up. It’s pretty unusual to see that combination survive. Looking at that same truck, is it a manual or auto transmission? I can’t really tell. I don't see an automatic dip stick and it looks like a column shifter. (3 on the tree??)

[tommys72]

I love all of the information Keith has here. Anywhere he posts actually. Makes ya feel like you're on the line building one of these trucks.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by tommys72

Makes ya feel like you're on the line building one of these trucks.

...except there is no smell....



K

[toms68cst]

It's interesting to me that the discussion about transmission color came up.

When I had my engine our several years ago I also had my CH465 out. After I cleaned it up, It was clearly had been painted some sort of a red primer color. I simply took red primer rattle can paint and re-sprayed it. It still looks good 10 years later. It looked to be a very close match to the original paint.

[Eagle9502]

Bumping up this valuable old thread.

[RedRoad]

Here is what I ended up with for the trans and t case. kept all the original hardware, wire wheeled and reinstalled. I originally tried Rustoleum red oxide but found it to be too dark red, ended up using Krylon red oxide and matched the orange color perfectly. Used Duplicolor cast iron high temp engine paint and it matched pretty good to cast parts I soaked in evaporust to remove surface rust.

The last pic shows the NOS flywheel shield that came in black, some others stated it was chevy orange but I think black is correct.

[raggedjim]

Just to throw a monkey wrench in the mix on the alternator bracket, the LIFE photo of the engine assembly plant clearly shows orange brackets. These may not be truck engines, but at least SOME smallblocks got orange brackets... And I believe the year on the photo was '59.

http://www.camaros.org/images/assemb...ly-engines.jpg

But the '68 engines brochure shows black...

http://paintref.com/graphics/brochur...vpickup_11.jpg

Rg

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

Just to throw a monkey wrench in the mix on the alternator bracket, the LIFE photo of the engine assembly plant clearly shows orange brackets. These may not be truck engines, but at least SOME smallblocks got orange brackets... And I believe the year on the photo was '59.

http://www.camaros.org/images/assemb...ly-engines.jpg

Just to be clear: that's the Tarrytown vehicle assembly plant (not the engine plant) - but - it certainly does re-open the "orange" alternator bracket discussion.

I can say that's not the way we did it, nor would I prefer to do it that way given the choice (my concern would be that the bracket could get bent or damaged sticking up unprotected like that). It also points out that there can be some variation between model years, depending on what the individual program teams decide.

K

[Tdrcreyn4]

Subbed

[Graham57a]

Taking apart my 68 gmc the other day I found that the door latch mechanism was installed prior to painting. All other door guts appear to be added after

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Graham57a

Taking apart my 68 gmc the other day I found that the door latch mechanism was installed prior to painting. All other door guts appear to be added after

Seems there were some variances. My latch control screws were just black phosphate.

[DeadheadNM]

The door regulator screws I've encountered are all clear zinc and installed after paint. Same for the screws that secure the latch.

[Graham57a]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

The door regulator screws I've encountered are all clear zinc and installed after paint. Same for the screws that secure the latch.

Most I have seen are that way. May be a gmc specific variance? Or maybe a plant specific variance?

[DeadheadNM]

Could be - will keep eye out for other examples. Edp coating rather than paint under the painted screws would support factory install.

[Graham57a]

A few more pics

[Graham57a]

Reviving this thread for some additional info. Trying to narrow down what the oil fill tube and cap should look like on a 1968 327 intake. Looking at Steve’s posts earlier in this thread it appears all examples he showed have the zinc plated screw in cap (similar to a radiator cap) on the oil fill tube. I have an unmolested 67 with a 307 at my house now and it has the slide on (mushroom style) breather cap for the oil fill. Is this a 67-68 variance? Any experts out there? Picture of the 67 below.

[jocko]

Interestingly enough, while I can't claim the pics are of untouched originals, the first is a 67 and has the cap like your 67 - but all the others are 68s and have the other cap as you've mentioned. (the last one is Reggie Jackson's ) Anyway, at least based on circumstantial evidence, it does appear that the oil fill cap changed between 67 and 68.

[jocko]

Maybe this will be more definitive. 67 (pic 1) and 68 (pic 2) truck data book images of the 10-30 327. Seems good enough proof for me that your assumption is correct

[1966 K10]

Ive found for my 66 that factory installed PCV equipped engines had the flat cap and the round 'vented' cap is for non PCV applications.

[chewychevy67]

Yes. In 66 67 if you got the closed pcv option you got the twist cap to seal the system and the pcv valve would thread into the oil fill tube. In 68 closed pcv became standard and the valve moved to the valve cover and the tube would have the twist cap but no pcv valve. 67 back standard draft tube would have the vented slide on cap