Taurus electric fan wiring?

[Hudsonaj36]

So I have been searching and I'm not finding what I'm looking for.

I have a Taurus dual speed fan. I want to wire it so when I turn the truck on the low speed is always on and have a toggle switch so I can bump it to high if want. Easier the better and I'm terrible with electrical so please dumb it down as much as possible.
Thanks.

[magicoolbus]

This is a pretty common e-fan swap with lots of info out there: Here is some of the material that I accumulated when I did my swap. Also included are a few installed pics. I went whole hog with the relay kit and put in the 175 and 195 temp senders and wired it to my A/C system. Comes on when water temp rises to 175 on low speed and steps to high when temp is 195. Also steps to high when the A/C is turned on. I put in a 160 degree thermostat as well.

I know you asked for a basic install, but there is ample info on these sites and others that will undoubtedly be referenced by other board members.

http://www.hollisterroad.com/proddet...?prod=MarkVIII

http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/MarkVIII.html

http://www.dccontrol.com/relay_controllers.htm

[gmachinz]

Why not just make it automatic using 2 temp switches? That's as easy as it can get.

[gmachinz]

The Taurus dual fans and the T-Bird dual speed fan pictured above can be controlled with a Volvo dual speed relay and 2 temp switches. It dont get any easier than that.

[Hudsonaj36]

I'm thinking I'm going to do this:

http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Article...elayconfig.jpg

Seems simple and I can just use it as a single speed till I can come with some more cash. I would use the st-85sb relay from Napa $24.99 plus a fuse and some wire. Found that post after I posted here. I figure down the road I could get a second relay for the second speed and run them off temp or toggle switches.

[magicoolbus]

Here's a few more:

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...an/index.shtml

http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/sh...ic-Fan-Upgrade

[Hudsonaj36]

Well thanks for the suggestions. I fumbled my way through it so the low speed is always on when the ignition is on using the diagram in the link I posted. A lot easier than I thought. I think I will add to the system down the road. Probably a couple temp sensors and another relay so both low and high will work automatically. But for now just enjoy running cool.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by Hudsonaj36

I'm thinking I'm going to do this:

http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Article...elayconfig.jpg

Seems simple and I can just use it as a single speed till I can come with some more cash. I would use the st-85sb relay from Napa $24.99 plus a fuse and some wire. Found that post after I posted here. I figure down the road I could get a second relay for the second speed and run them off temp or toggle switches.

That solenoid is not made for that type of use, I know guys try it but stater relays are intermittent use only. Volvo can't handle the M8 or Tbird fan on high for very long. Its fine for a Taurus fan

The relay we make at Hollister Road is designed specifically for M8 type fan and Taurus. Its very dependable and we have sold several hundred over the last few years. Carries a 1 year warranty.

[gmachinz]

There are continuous duty solenoids that will handle that fan without any problem since the fan even on low, is not going to remain on for more than 15 seconds or so if you have the cooling system setup to run 180-190 with an adequate radiator and water pump.

However, keep in mind you may still want to think about upgrading your charging system to stabilize the voltage overall-even on low, that Taurus fan pulls about 18-20 amps. And running it directly off the battery is not something I'd recommend doing. If read up on "GM remote voltage sensing" you'll understand why. Mark Hamilton over at madelectrical.com has some good reads covering the topic.

[Hudsonaj36]

Yeah I used a 80 amp continuous solenoid from orielly's. Part# s55. Seems these have been working for people along with the st85 and st85sb from napa.

[dwcsr]

Here's the problem with continuous duty solenoids most all do not have a way to unload the amperage draw from the fan being on under load and shut off.

Voltage spikes can happen when DC motors or magnet devices are turned off. It’s called the “collapsing field” from magnet energy stored in the motor or device.
It will spike positive and then negative to zero volts.

These voltage spikes can damage solid state devices, even diodes in alternators. This also happens when you stop cranking the starter on a high compression engine and on an AC clutch when it disengages.
If you have ever seen that little brown button attach to the AC clutch positive wire and the ground wire at the clutch connector. That's a negative spike suppression device (Diode).

Suppression is a way to absorb excess power so it doesn't blow back into your electrical system. I'm sure many of you have seen when the head lights are on and the fan or AC is going then the fan stops and the headlight momentarily get brighter. That's a spike and it’s often mistaken for a surge. In good relays they have diodes that absorb that power so it decreases the spikes to a safe level.

And yes if you using a Taurus fan or M8 type fan 100 amp alt that has remote sensing is a must not a one wire Alt. I know people do it but it will not last as long as a proper relay and charging system setup correctly

[VetteVet]

Excellent post DWCSR

In good relays they have diodes that absorb that power so it decreases the spikes to a safe level.

Notice the diode between 85 and 86. When the relay turns off, the relay coil discharges. The diode shunts this voltage to ground and dissipates the spike.

[gmachinz]

Agreed that a big ole continuous duty solenoid isn't the best approach for fan control, but it can work....not ideal but doable. I have to disagree on whether a Volvo dual speed relay will handle the T-bird fans-I've been building these Motorcraft fan systems for about 8 years now and while NEW Motorcraft fans aren't available anymore, even the used ones I've collected and tested on average pull an inrush of 40A on low and up to 50A on high. This is off-run cycling for each speed. Actual running amp draw on high I never see go over 30A but I would suspect a fan motor with insane mileage on it would read higher however in general, the used fans in the pick n pulls have about 140-160K miles showing on average.

Relays are rated in number of switching cycles and I have no idea on the service life of the Volvo relays but generally the fused fan 1 and fan 2 locations in the Volvos are 50A so it can be safe to assume the relays must be rated to 35-40A....? At least that is my reasoning on it. The Volvo relays have their place but I've moved past that point with a resistored 3 and 4 speed conversion design so its all moot to me now.

It's interesting in seeing all the options for fan controls...hopefully the OP will go a little bit further for a more integrated fan kit....keep us posted!

[gmachinz]

Here's my example of an easy to install 2-speed T-bird electric fan using the Volvo 2-speed relay. It is prewired with 7 total leads to run. This is for a customer in Canada and as tested with an inductive amp probe, this used fan draws 22 amps on low and 31 amps on high speed. And, the Volvo relay incorporates a resistor lowering the inrush hit on low speed at 30A as tested. On my fan kits like this I crimp/solder, heat shrink and use heat resistant friction tape as well as 275 F rated automotive j1128 spec wiring loom with rosebud clips securing it all nice and neat. This IMO as about as easy as it gets. Fan is rated at 4200-4400 CFM on high although I have this type of setup on my 86 and it rarely hits high speed. My AC is controlled through my custom trinary circuit so it doesn't trigger high speed until high pressure reaches 235 psi.