283 engine - is it salvageable? Pics attached

[JQ-72]

Trying to put together a 283 engine for a 1959 Custom Cab restoration. I got the original engine from the PO, but it looks like it came off the bottom of a river! It definitely held water for a good while. I also bought a junk truck for parts that was a factory V8 truck. The 283 in it turned over good and I thought that would be the engine to build - until I took the starter off! The right side of that block busted out - appears to have frozen. I'm assuming this block is too bad busted to weld up (unless you guys think it can). I thought about using the block from the rusted motor and use the internals and heads from the busted engine, that is if I can break the rusty one loose! What are your thoughts? How would I go about freeing up the rusty engine - besides lots of Marvel Mystery Oil? Muratic acid? Thanks for any help.

[Overdriven]

Anything can be fixed, just a matter of if you want to spend that much $ to fix it. The cracked block, I’m also going to say it froze. Unless that’s the only spot that held water and froze it likely has more cracks you haven’t found yet. Not worth repairing in my opinion.

As for the rusty block, I don’t think Marvel or other penetrants are going to do it! What do the cylinder walls look like? I’m not sure how effective acids are on rust, may want to have a look at YouTube to see if anyone has tried it. On YouTube I did recently see a diy channel make a rust removal electrolysis thing. May be something to look into as it’ll get into the crevices and it’s wasn’t any fancy chemicals, just water with a type of soap added, I believe for its alkaline content.

[rsavage]

IMO, you should look for another engine. Rebuildable 283 cores are getting scarce just because they are old and many have been scrapped or have been rebuilt (bored to the limit) previously. When you find one insist that the heads are pulled so the cylinders can be inspected and mic'd. I have a 283 virgin bore service replacement engine with super low miles that would work for my '61 Corvette if I wanted to make it correct and remove the L79 327. I'm just hanging on to it as it seems to me that I just don't see any good ones for sale any longer. Good luck with your hunt. This forum is a good place to start your search.

[GASoline71]

This has to be a joke right?

There are lots of 283's out there to buy. "Original engine" isn't going to bring anything but sentimental value to the rig. That engine is wasted.

Gary

[JQ-72]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

This has to be a joke right?

There are lots of 283's out there to buy. "Original engine" isn't going to bring anything but sentimental value to the rig. That engine is wasted.

Gary

If this was a joke, it'd be in another section of the board - but thanks for the encouragement . I totally get it that any ole 283 will work, but I'm one of those picky, numbers have to be right kinda guys. The truck was a short fleet double deluxe big window truck with the special two-tone paint. Equipped with 283 and overdrive. Pretty rare truck, so I'm trying my best to find an original 1959 date code, "M" suffix code engine.

[Dead Parrot]

2nd the thought that busted block isn't worth fixing. Salvage what parts you can.

Take a pressure washer to rusty guts and see whats really in there and what shape it is in. At this point, water isn't going to hurt much and cleaner guts will help with your decision. As long as there was oil on top of whatever water was in there, the actual rust could be limited. Once all the O2 became part of the rust, the rusting should have mostly stopped. If it cleans up fairly nice, then spray or brush on a bunch of penetrating oil or WD-40.

[Killer Bee]

I completely understand your objective to keep as much of the original parts alive as possible..

almost everything can be repaired including that block possibly, but to what end?

although the cracks shown should be repairable with great effort, time, and expense, it will look like a repaired block..

if you can find another usable block with the same stamp codes, it will finish looking more like it did from factory..

so what it boils down to is sentimental v practical and only you can answer that..

you might be throwing good money after bad if you pursue rebuilding that block and eventually discover it cannot be used..

as for cleaning, pressure wash all the globs away and start soaking threads in kroil or similar premium penetrant..

once it's all apart, see what's usable and see where you want to go with it as it unfolds before spending any $ on repairs..

might be better off making a shop table out of it just to keep it around for conversation piece

good luck!

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by JQ-72

If this was a joke, it'd be in another section of the board - but thanks for the encouragement . I totally get it that any ole 283 will work, but I'm one of those picky, numbers have to be right kinda guys. The truck was a short fleet double deluxe big window truck with the special two-tone paint. Equipped with 283 and overdrive. Pretty rare truck, so I'm trying my best to find an original 1959 date code, "M" suffix code engine.

I reread my post and the "joke" part sounded a bit harsh. No ill will intended. But these old rigs didn't have anything "numbers matching" on them except the frame and the cab. Finding a 283 with the correct date code for the era the truck was built would be your best option. It'll save you a lot of time and money in the long run.

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

I completely understand your objective to keep as much of the original parts alive as possible..

almost everything can be repaired including that block possibly, but to what end?

although the cracks shown should be repairable with great effort, time, and expense, it will look like a repaired block..

if you can find another usable block with the same stamp codes, it will finish looking more like it did from factory..

so what it boils down to is sentimental v practical and only you can answer that..

you might be throwing good money after bad if you pursue rebuilding that block and eventually discover it cannot be used..

as for cleaning, pressure wash all the globs away and start soaking threads in kroil or similar premium penetrant..

once it's all apart, see what's usable and see where you want to go with it as it unfolds before spending any $ on repairs..

might be better off making a shop table out of it just to keep it around for conversation piece

good luck!

Good advice right there!

Gary

[JQ-72]

GASoline71 - it's all good! Thanks to all for the advice. The heads are still on the rusty motor, I'll pull them and get a peek of the cylinder walls. I may even dispense a can of oven cleaner on the crank case side, then pressure blast. It's a winter project, so I can still be looking for a correct motor, but the truck suffix stamping "M" is pretty hard to find.

[68Gold/white]

I have a retired friend that knows how to weld cast iron. He would tell you to scrap that block, without doubt. Welding cast iron is not impossible. THe problem you run into is areas like a coolant passage or oil passage that have pressure on them. THey tend to leak..Welding something like a starter pad or bell housing area is doable...just structural...

The kind of cast iron welding you would need would scare you on the price. They have to put the block in a furnace, get it HOT, and use what ever that type of welding that is, then cool, it gradually...it's a science. Folks the have exotic and rare parts can afford to do this...I cannot

[geezer#99]

You’re off a year on your M code.
It’s a 1958.
If it really matters!

[JQ-72]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

You’re off a year on your M code.
It’s a 1958.
If it really matters!

M (283 manual) and MA (283 automatic) were used up to about 1962. The busted block is Nov. 1958, which would be for a 1959 model and the rusty block has a 1959 date - Both suffix codes are M

[YoungPup1977]

Originally Posted by JQ-72

If this was a joke, it'd be in another section of the board - but thanks for the encouragement . I totally get it that any ole 283 will work, but I'm one of those picky, numbers have to be right kinda guys. The truck was a short fleet double deluxe big window truck with the special two-tone paint. Equipped with 283 and overdrive. Pretty rare truck, so I'm trying my best to find an original 1959 date code, "M" suffix code engine.

So if some one decked the 283 engine block and re-stamped a "M" on the block how in the world would you know ? Is the 283 totally different than other SBC's ? Re-stamping of blocks is performed mostly after a engine block has been decked, meaning the suffix is removed but re-stamped.

[rsavage]

It's easy to have the pad restamped if you find another block and it needs to be decked to be squared up. The block casting number, if the charts can be trusted, that you would be looking for is 3756519 which was used for 58-62 passenger and truck applications. casting date prior to your truck build if you know that, but it would be hard to see.

[YoungPup1977]

From the very first post, there are two engines to choose from. One has a cracked block and it was being considered to be used. Were you going to restamp the “M” on the engine and call it original on this rare truck or call it correct. There is a difference if you are a numbers guy.

[Bigdav160]

If it's busted that bad on the outside it's likely much worse on the inside. = boat anchor

[JQ-72]

Originally Posted by YoungPup1977

From the very first post, there are two engines to choose from. One has a cracked block and it was being considered to be used. Were you going to restamp the “M” on the engine and call it original on this rare truck or call it correct. There is a difference if you are a numbers guy.

Both engines are correct date code for a 1959 truck and both have the suffix code that ends in the letter "M". Neither would have to be re-stamped. My question was if either engine could be salvaged or if anyone had any experience dealing with anything like this. If not, I'll have to look for another engine. But I'll search for a correct date and correct suffix code before I just drop any small block in there.

[YoungPup1977]

I second it on the boat anchor. I am thinking thats what is was already being used for.
Good luck on whatever you do !!

[YoungPup1977]

Dup
Post

[The Rocknrod]

Ya it looks like it was already a boat anchor and someone fished it out.

[JQ-72]

Thanks for all the help, now it’s time to look for a motor. I started tearing both engines and both are busted on the inside also.