The never ending K5 Build LS Swap

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Here's the electrical wiring & changes I made. I took out the stock style fuse panel and replaced it with this universal 24 circuit fuse panel from MGI Speedware. I got rig of the aluminum home depot brackets and welded up this bracket of 14 gauge steel. My painter gave me some base coat of the 506 Dark olive. it kind of looks like it could belong there.


I also added a relay panel to help take some of the load off the main electrical system during start up. It is a 8 panel fused relay with a 150 AMP Main fuse breaker. Probably overkill but oh well. I' should've went with their 4 relay panel.


I mounted the replay panel underneath the drivers seat and it's controlled through switches and that's what will help with the load on the electrical system at start up. I'll only need to turn the the fuel pump switch (powered by the relay panel) before start up. The two electrical fans are switch operated and I can flip those on after the engine is on. They are triggered through the Holley terminator with set parameters. No need for a thermostat directly connected to the fans.

FAN 1 comes on at 195 and turns off at 185.
FAN 2 comes on at 200 and turns off at 190.

The fourth switch will activate my seat warmers which also have their own switches to turn on and set heat level.

The fifth switch will control my e-locker for when I want to do burnouts and race people at a street light


For the stereo and amp I was able to mount both of these under the passenger seat connecting to the frame of the seat so it is not on the floor.



The cross overs will be stuffed inside the center console I made. They will actually be on the carpet not underneath shown in the pic

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I decided to go with the Dakota Digital gauge cluster because they have a BIM module that can pull in data from the Holley Terminator ECu such as oil pressure, RPM, speed, temp, AFR, etc..



I also couldn't resist this Ring Brothers dash bezel. It's pricey but it's a very good quality piece. just the weight of it tells you the material used was top notch and the brushed aluminum gives it a nice touch. matches the steering wheel and my cup holders.

Here is the VHX module for the dakota digital. Another reason I like this compared to others is that you don't have to wire everything directly into the back of the gauge cluster. One wire from the VHX to the back of the cluster and that it. Allow for a much cleaner look imo. '



Found a spot right behind the gauge cluster for the Holley Terminator Max X. The X version also gives you transmission control so no need for two separate ECU.

[SeventyOne]

All super cool. Will the pass seat still be able to flip forward?

[Bocker85]

Would 16 oz of cerekote cover the motor and trans? I am trying to figure how much to order. Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by Bocker85

Would 16 oz of cerekote cover the motor and trans? I am trying to figure how much to order. Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

Yes, more than enough. I also recommend shaking the bottle for at least 5 minutes. Ive been having better results where as before I'd shake it for about a minute.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Engine back in. Made some cosmetic changes. I fired the engine up and ran it for a few minutes but wasn't ready for a test drive cause I had no brakes. Made good oil pressure, no unusual noises, so far so good. I spent 2 weeks messing with my brakes. Air was getting in somewhere and for the life of me I couldn't locate it. There was no visual leaks of any kind. I tried using a new MC and prop valve and the same thing kept happening, pedal would sink right to the floor with no pressure. I did the two man bleeding process, I used one of those mityvacs, and I even tried reverse bleeding sending fluid back to the mc from the bleeder valve. I was completely stumped.

I decided to replace the lines at this point. Went to local parts store, bought 25 ft of 3/16 brake lines and new union fittings and started making new lines. After doing all that the brakes started building pressure right away and was able to bleed them.

[Ol Blue K20]

Sounds like it's almost time for a drive

[parb]

I know I'm late to the party but dang this is my kind of idea of a daily driver!

Where are you with the project now?

[5Win]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

It was almost 2 years ago when I originally finished my Blazer and since then I've logged about 4K miles. I decided to make some changes (which btw is an understatement), and I figured I would start a new thread. Some of you are familiar with my first build and for those who are not, it's called "Attempting my first build"

I've spent the last 3 months planning this out and here's what I'm doing.

1. LS Swap 6.0 (LQ9)

2. Atlas Suspension & Fox Shocks: I'm going to be using their custom 52" progressive front springs and rears with the DIY4x B52 First Gen Hanger Kit https://diy4x.com/product.php?produc...cat=250&page=1

The front springs are 10" longer than stock and this should help soften the ride.

3. Front Swaybar & cross member from a square body.

4. Dakota Digital Gauges

5. Custom Center Console

6. Custom Sound system

7. Updated fuse panel, a relay panel, and switches to control the relays

8. Vintage Air setup

9. Smooth Firewall using Vannatta fabrications 5 piece firewall kit

nice pic, sunnycove

[preciador6]

nice build