4X4 to 2WD conversion questions again.... JONBOY and whomever else might have info

[Staceydude]

Hey All,

I am to broke to do this right now but thinking very very hard about it.

I did converse with Jonboy about this once and have tried to do searches on it to no avail.

So here goes....

I have this 81 4X4 K5 right now. It is currently sitting here basically stripped down for the most part. It is together enough to drive and has a great midly built Small-block in it. The body itself is extremaly rust free. It has had two patch panels welded aft of the rear wheel and has like three little spots in the floor but compared to alot I have seen this thing is definetly worth fixing. It is near ready to paint and put back together.

My dilema... I have had more built 4X4s in my life than I can count. Everything from a highly lifted 1 ton with 44 boggers to Jeeps both CJ-7s and a radically built Jeep Cherokee. Old and new model Broncos.... etc..etc...etc...

Frankly I am kinda tired of 4X4s...I HAVE NEVER EVER had a built slammed two wheel drive truck!!!

I have the itch and I am wondering if it would be worth converting the K5 to a two wheel drive model...

Jonboy has looked into this a bit and he thinks the best route would be to buy a wrecked up two wheel drive Suburban and rip the front suspension off of it and bolt it onto the Blazer. This also seems like a great idea. I just left the wrecking yard and there is a huge amount of two wheel drives Burbs to chose from. I even found a 454 model missing the motor but with the crossmember etc if I wanted to go big block...

My questions is will the Suburban front suspension be a direct bolt in??? I mean there are like 6 bolts per side from what I saw. Would I be able to simply unbolt all my 4X4 components and install the Burban components???

Would I be better off buying two wheel drive A Arms etc from an aftermarket supply house?

I know I will need a 2wd tranny etc and I will have to get rid of my transfer case. But actually I could probably use the money from selling those to fund the 2X4 swap.

Is the 2WD Burban parts the exact same as the 2WD K5 parts?

I have seen alot of interest on this subject since 4X4s K5s are a dime a dozen and 2X4 are getting very hard to find.

I would definetly document every step for either a tech write-up article for others interested in this.

I would also need some assistance from some folks from the local area if they are available or would be able to help with the heavy stuff.

Is this idea a waist of time or is it feasible?

Does anyone have any inputs on this???

Thanks

Stacey

[Jonboy]

The 2wd burb parts are the same as 2wd blazer parts, which are the same as 2wd pickup parts, at least in 1/2 ton stuff. The rear is the same as well, which you would probably want to swap, or at least the axle shafts and drums, to get the 5 lug stuff. Getting a burb will net the heavy duty brakes (1.25" rotor), and they are a dime a dozen around here. I think the swap would be worthwhile, but it may be more time consuming than anything.

[Staceydude]

I see, I did not realize the Burb parts were beefier.

SO here is what I am thinking.

- Acquire Complete front Burb setup

- Remove front clip

- Pull motor/tranny/trans case

- Remove all front Axle compnents and driveshaft etc.

- Install Burb fron end and reasemble.

Now question is....

Can I re-use the 4X4 steering box etc?

Am I missing anything???

Regards,

Stace

[Jonboy]

I think you would just have to see how the steering sits when it is assembled. The 2wd and 4wd boxes are the same, as far as I know. The arm coming off of them may be different, but I am not sure.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

I think you would just have to see how the steering sits when it is assembled. The 2wd and 4wd boxes are the same, as far as I know. The arm coming off of them may be different, but I am not sure.

From what I know the boxes are the same but the arm isn't. If I remember correctly the mounting position is different too.

You need to get Chris (Capt. Kaos) over here on this thread. He will have some good solid input....

[Grim Reaper]

Cant use a 4wd box. THe secttor shaft is different. Ythe sector shaft can be swapped but it's less hassle to just get a complete 2wd box.

Here is the real problem. 2wd and 4wd use the same rear springs for the most part. The difference is the spring hangers. You will need ot get 2wd spring hangers. Or dependin on the drop you want do a flip the axle on top of the spring. In most 2wd that would require a C notch but with the 4x4 spring purches you might not have to do that.

[Staceydude]

Originally Posted by Grim Reaper

Cant use a 4wd box. THe secttor shaft is different. Ythe sector shaft can be swapped but it's less hassle to just get a complete 2wd box.

Here is the real problem. 2wd and 4wd use the same rear springs for the most part. The difference is the spring hangers. You will need ot get 2wd spring hangers. Or dependin on the drop you want do a flip the axle on top of the spring. In most 2wd that would require a C notch but with the 4x4 spring purches you might not have to do that.

The 2 Wheel drive box is not a problem.

I was thinking about doing a spring under at first to see how it would look. I have also thought about going full on this one and bagging it. I know this would be a little more expensive but in the long run would be quite nice.

If I do go witht he 2WD spring perches they should be pretty simple right? Would these be the same as on a 2WD truck? Or are they the same on a Burb?

Great info so far everyone.

Regards,

Stacey

[TexasRedIron]

My son and I, a few years ago, did just what you are thinking of doing, but to a 72 4WD Blazer. It was much more simple than we thought. We aquired a 2 wd drive 72 PU x big block truck. There was very little to worry about except alignment of all change out major parts. At the time my son came up with a lowering kit, sorry i don't know what manufacture. He slamed it about 4" in rear and about 3" in the front. I was building a lot of stroker motors at that time, and we put in a 383. Tubed the bed, used a shorten 9 ", and went on. After getting all that done, before the paint, a fellow was passing through from Calif., saw it, and made what we THOUGHT was a great offer, so we sold it to him. It just had about 100 miles on it. Ran very strong, straight, and un-less you looked underneath VERY hard, you could not tell the difference. What was thw great offer. $6000. AHHHHHH not one of our smartist moves. The last time I heard, it is now up near Chicago and sold for $10,000+ with new paint. Oh well, my son found another 72 factory 2WD Blazer and swears that he will be buried in it.

[Staceydude]

Did some research of the 2wd spring hangers and they will be a bolt on for the most part and alot cheaper than bagging it.

Texasrediron, I just read another post of someone doing the same thing to a gen 1.

Should be awesome.

Regards,

Stace

[f.monroe]

I have my 1979 Suburban for sale for $1000 .It is a 454/th400 with everything you would need to convert your 4wd. You could recover most of your money by selling the parts you dont use. Mine is a trailering special and I think it has a 3.40 12 bolt rear.Heavy duty cooling etc. Come drive it home.Frank

[Captkaos]

To recount what everyone else said, you need

1) Complete front crossmember from donor (including the steering box)
2) Rear spring hangers (they are longer)
3) might as well get the rearend and get matching HD brakes, (although the Blazer will have them also, only 6 lug)

The brake hoses for the front mount differently also.

[Grim Reaper]

Originally Posted by Staceydude

The 2 Wheel drive box is not a problem.

I was thinking about doing a spring under at first to see how it would look. I have also thought about going full on this one and bagging it. I know this would be a little more expensive but in the long run would be quite nice.

If I do go witht he 2WD spring perches they should be pretty simple right? Would these be the same as on a 2WD truck? Or are they the same on a Burb?

Great info so far everyone.

Regards,

Stacey

Easy other then getting them rivets out! Them things are boogers! Other then that it's not difficult just takes time.

BE CARFULL! Blazers don't have great places to put jack stands when removing suspension and will get tippy on you. Its a pain but I would recomend having jack stands at the bumpers as well as the middle. Drag the suspension and axles out from the sides.

Buddy and I were stripping a K5 to get the parts to 5 lug and disk a 70 Burb I had. We dropped the front cross member with it on 4 stands and the thing rocked back onto the back bumper. Damn if it didn't do it again the other way when we dropped the rear axle out. The CG on them is center between the wheels with no motor and you can only get the jackstand about 14 inches either side of it because of the way the frame is shapped in the middle. Have stands under the frame horns when you take large stuff out.

[Staceydude]

Hey Everyone,

Thanks for the excellent ideas and info. I am going to start setting aside funds for this project or sell some stuff off. I am fighting a losing battle with the AC repairman with a $2000 bill for my Home AC system..... Just think what 2K would do for a good K5!!!

Frank... I sent you an email on your Burban. Does sound like an excellent parts candidate.

Thanks again folks. I will keep you posted.

Regards,

Stacey

[RED72blazer]

how about you come up to seattle and take a 76 2wd frame off of my hands. It's complete! i'll get pics if you are interested

[Staceydude]

Seattle is a hike, Howevfer It may be an option. I am sending you a PM.

Thanks

Stace

[Staceydude]

Alright everyone...

An update on this 4X4 to 2X4 deal.

I have loacated my donor vehicle.

1979 Big Block Suburban that Frank mentioned above. I am picking the vehicle up soon.

I will then start stripping the Blazer down more than it already is (even though is is pretty much just a drivable shell right now)

So not only am I converting 4X4 to 2X4, I am also swapping in the big block as well.

The process will take some time I am sure due to my work schedule but I am going to take some photos of eveything along the way and try to do a decent job of detailing things.

As Frank mentioned above this Burban will have the heavy duty brakes, has a 4 core radiator and the 454/ TH400 combo will be great. The front and rear brakes will be heavier duty and the rear end ratio on the Burban is prolly much better than my current twelve bolt.

Thanks for all the input so far.

Regards,

Stacey

[lolife99]

If you are going to flip the rearend,... you might consider leaving the 4x4 rear hanger brackets. I remember an old article on this subject, (in Truckin Mag. maybe), they swapped to the 2wd hanger brackets,... BUT ended up putting the 4wd brackets back on, to raise it back up a little.

[Staceydude]

I will keep that in mind,

I am thinking I may just buy some aftermarket brackets for the rear. They are pretty cheap and will bolt right on. I am going to try flipping the rear first to see what I get out of it.

Regards,

Stacey

[sixty8c10]

have you done this conversion yet? pics? i am planning on doing the same thing with an 88' k-5 i already have the parts from a 71' gmc 2wd p/u according to my measurement they will work just gotta drill some holes.

[Captkaos]

Just and FYI the 67-72 spindles required by the upper/lower control arms/balljoint are expensive. Using 73-87 pieces will yeild less money spent.

[bagged74]

2wd blazer spring hangers are almost exactly the same as 2" drop hangers for a truck. You could buy a shackle/hanger kit to lower the rear. just a thought....

[longhorn71]

come up and grab the 2wd frame i have sittin in the back 40

[sixty8c10]

captkaos- aren't the balljoints, steering components, and other suspension components virtually interchangeable? as in the 73 & up balljoints will fit in the 67-72 a-arms and you can change out the steering linkage with a 73 & up to avoid looking for those tie-rod adapters (just thinking out loud)

bagged74- thanks for the info

longhorn71-can't make it up, but your welcome to bring it down.

staceydude- sorry for stealing your post