Laying Frame, Drive shaft crossmember issue.

[jmlcolorado]

Oksy guys. Im using a 1968 GMC C10 chassis for a rolling chassis for my rod project. I have started to zee the frame. The front is about 1/2 completed with its 6" zee and i just started the rear with another 6" zee.

Problem is the driveshaft crossmember makes contact with the pavement long before the back section of the frame gets there. I was hoping to avoid building a new crossmember back there but if thats what has to be done, so be it.

Have you guys run into this before?! I figured with the weeks and weeks of reading threads on this site, i would have run across this by now.

The cab im using is a 1950 International L110 as is the bed. The cab has been puched back as far as i can go to give the illusion the front wheels are out in front of the truck. That explanes the strange placement and drastic height of the zee's.
I hope i dont offend anyone by butchering up this truck

The photos below show what im talking about. I was thinking maybe if i were to cut the bottom section out and flip it up side down, that would make that dropped section go up rather then down. I still have about 3 inches before the rear frame contacts the axle so i have the clearance there.

I dunno, ill let you guys see and tell me what you think.

THANKS in advance!

[jmlcolorado]

For what itw worth, the zee's are no where near completed yet. I wanted to get the tops together first, then i will flip the frame over to do the bottoms so its easier to weld up. Then some large fish plates will be added all around.

And just for fun, heres an idea of what the truck is looking like....... befire the rear zee.

The first one is a "before" picture and the second one is how it sat last night.

[colin_havens]

Your best bet is to remove that factory crossmember, and replace it with a tubular one like Porterbuilt or Suicide Doors sells. I have one from Suicide doors, and it was not that expensive. Your other option is to do what a friend of mine did, and modify the existing crossmember. He had to cut the bottom off the factory one, and plate it so it would sit above the body. Then he had to cut the top driveshaft hoop, and put a piece of steel tubing that was bent in a U there so his one piece driveshaft would have enough roomd to articulate with the suspension. It took alot of time, and he still drug the rivets on the bottom of the factory crossmember till they were almost gone.

If you run a 2 piece shaft, either of these options are really good.

Porterbuilt carrier bearing crossmember

Suicide Doors Crossmember This is their transmission crossmember, but the Carrier Bearing one looks identical except for the mount in the middle. You have to call them to get it, but it was the same price as the transmission crossmember. I used this one because it bolted in from the side of the frame, so no chance of dragging off the bolts on the bottom.

[jmlcolorado]

Originally Posted by colin_havens

Your best bet is to remove that factory crossmember, and replace it with a tubular one like Porterbuilt or Suicide Doors sells. I have one from Suicide doors, and it was not that expensive. Your other option is to do what a friend of mine did, and modify the existing crossmember. He had to cut the bottom off the factory one, and plate it so it would sit above the body. Then he had to cut the top driveshaft hoop, and put a piece of steel tubing that was bent in a U there so his one piece driveshaft would have enough roomd to articulate with the suspension. It took alot of time, and he still drug the rivets on the bottom of the factory crossmember till they were almost gone.

If you run a 2 piece shaft, either of these options are really good.

Porterbuilt carrier bearing crossmember

Suicide Doors Crossmember This is their transmission crossmember, but the Carrier Bearing one looks identical except for the mount in the middle. You have to call them to get it, but it was the same price as the transmission crossmember. I used this one because it bolted in from the side of the frame, so no chance of dragging off the bolts on the bottom.

GREAT information! THANKS!

I sat staring at the truck for an hour last night after posting and decided to try to remove the crossmember. I got it lined out to cut up and its sitting on the floor, but looking at the portorbuilt member, it looks pretty tempting!

Anyone know if it has mounts to use the factory trailing arms? It doesnt look like it on the picture on their website.

Nevermind. I found an adjustable trailing arm member.

[colin_havens]

The one I posted does not, but this one does. Nate makes some real nice stuff.
LINK